So I really like my tweeters at 2.5k but then they have a really bad "ssssssizzle" ifykwim. Which may or may not be called beaming, I'm not sure. But when I lower 10k on my eq it helps but also lowers the Soundstage which doesn't do a whole lot good. If I cross them over at 6.3k it removes this issue however I don't like the low Soundstage. So what do yall recommend?
Welcome to the forum!
You would need to give us the make and model of the tweeter and details of the high pass crossover configuration you are using - a schematic would be nice.
You would need to give us the make and model of the tweeter and details of the high pass crossover configuration you are using - a schematic would be nice.
Skar tws-01 and my head units 3 way crossover setting. I have the tweeters hooked up to the rear channel so they don't split the power with my doors. It may just be my speakers themselves but I would love to know what I can do to make the most of what I have.
What do you mean? 2 front tweeters, 2 front door speakers and a sub in the trunk is all I need in a jeep. The rear door speakers are so low they provide absolutely nothing to the Soundstage.
Details of tweeters:
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/tws-01-1-inch-component-tweeters
They come complete with a high pass filter wired into the supplied connecting lead. Are you using the supplied leads?
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/tws-01-1-inch-component-tweeters
They come complete with a high pass filter wired into the supplied connecting lead. Are you using the supplied leads?
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Yes I am.Details of tweeters:
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/tws-01-1-inch-component-tweeters
They come complete with a high pass filter wired into the supplied connecting lead. Are you using the supplied leads?
I think you should ask for your thread to be moved to the "Car Audio" section of the forum.
If you click on the "Report" symbol at the bottom left of your post you can ask a moderator to do so.
If you click on the "Report" symbol at the bottom left of your post you can ask a moderator to do so.
I thought thats where I posted so I was quite confused seeing "construction tips" in the top left. Oh well. Thanks thoughI think you should ask for your thread to be moved to the "Car Audio" section of the forum.
If you click on the "Report" symbol at the bottom left of your post you can ask a moderator to do so.
Hmm, if using an EQ in series with the existing supplied XO, then the actual XO points/slopes will be higher, i.e. the extreme HF will for sure be 'sizzling'.
It sounds worse with no eq though? I have it in my head unit at 1k for the crossover just cause I can't really turn it off.
What head unit are you using? Are you using any additional processing built into it? Some have time delays and response shaping to try to manipulate imaging. If that's being used or the head unit thinks your tweeters are rear speakers, that could be complicating things.
Have you done any RTA measurement to try to equalize/balance the system overall? Doing it all by ear can be tough if you don't have a lot of experience and/or a good reference to compare to. Smartphone apps and external microphones for RTA are pretty common/easy/cheap now. If you're serious about trying to optimize your system, it's worth the investment.
Have you done any RTA measurement to try to equalize/balance the system overall? Doing it all by ear can be tough if you don't have a lot of experience and/or a good reference to compare to. Smartphone apps and external microphones for RTA are pretty common/easy/cheap now. If you're serious about trying to optimize your system, it's worth the investment.
JVC KD-SR86BT. The tweeters are connected to the rear speaker wires but the head unit is set to 3 way which gives me X-over settings for Tweeters, Mid Range and the sub. I've used an rta with my phone but it's nearly impossible to be accurate even with a solid external mic. Like for instance, when using an rta, I get a flatter response by cutting almost evrrything. But it never actually sounds any better unless 16k is up to at least +7 and I give it more mid bass/low midsWhat head unit are you using? Are you using any additional processing built into it? Some have time delays and response shaping to try to manipulate imaging. If that's being used or the head unit thinks your tweeters are rear speakers, that could be complicating things.
Have you done any RTA measurement to try to equalize/balance the system overall? Doing it all by ear can be tough if you don't have a lot of experience and/or a good reference to compare to. Smartphone apps and external microphones for RTA are pretty common/easy/cheap now. If you're serious about trying to optimize your system, it's worth the investment.
I'm also not using any of the internal sound effect options besides EQ and X-Over. I also have my sub level at 0 (I'm not sure where to really set it for the best results) I use a multimeter for setting my gain so it's quite accurate in that sense.JVC KD-SR86BT. The tweeters are connected to the rear speaker wires but the head unit is set to 3 way which gives me X-over settings for Tweeters, Mid Range and the sub. I've used an rta with my phone but it's nearly impossible to be accurate even with a solid external mic. Like for instance, when using an rta, I get a flatter response by cutting almost evrrything. But it never actually sounds any better unless 16k is up to at least +7 and I give it more mid bass/low mids
Could the 'sizzle' be that you're driving the rear HU amp into clipping. The power is typically limited to 20w.
Its just really piercing sibilance that idk how to tame right. It happens at low volumes too. I've gotten it much better but just trying to learn more.
Do you have a higher power external amplifier that you could temporarily use to drive the tweeters to see if it makes a difference?
Are you using uncorrelated pink noise as the test "tone"?I've used an rta with my phone but it's nearly impossible to be accurate even with a solid external mic. Like for instance, when using an rta, I get a flatter response by cutting almost evrrything. But it never actually sounds any better unless 16k is up to at least +7 and I give it more mid bass/low mids
Also, most people prefer a non-flat curve in a car audio system. There are multiple reasons for that. We can chat about it if you like.
Here's a relevant plot that gives you some idea what other people are shooting for. In the end, your tastes come heavily into play though, so think of them as ballpark targets.
https://www.aes.org/e-lib/browse.cfm?elib=17839
Here's a relevant plot that gives you some idea what other people are shooting for. In the end, your tastes come heavily into play though, so think of them as ballpark targets.
https://www.aes.org/e-lib/browse.cfm?elib=17839
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