Scenario:
Currently I have a Bluetooth two channel amp driving two ‘rock speakers’ in the back yard. It makes decent stereo sound when we’re splashing around in the pool. I have been given 4 Pyle 5.25 car speakers. I’d like to build two speaker boxes, each housing 2 of these Pyle speakers. These new speakers would replace the ‘rock speakers’ when we are outside and connect to the existing wiring to the Bluetooth amp. I do not plan on leaving them outside 24/7. As I’ve never done this, I’m posting to this forum for insight, guidance and the practical opportunity to learn about speaker design.
Given:
Grace Digital BTAR513
2 x 37 watts RMS at 8 ohms
2 x 50 watts RMS at 6 ohms
2 x 70 watts RMS at 4 ohms
Frequency Response: 20 Hz – 20 KHz
PL53BL 5.25” 200 Watt 3-way speakers
100 Watts Rms / 200 Watts Max
1'' High Temperature ASV Voice Coil
20 oz Magnet Structure
1'' Neodymium Film Dome Midrange
3/4'' Piezo Tweeter
Impedance: 4 Ohm
Sensitivity: 89 dB
Frequency Response: 100Hz - 20Khz
Speaker Displacement: 0.14lts
Speaker Box Volume: 0.35 ft^3
Questions:
Electrical – Wiring two speakers in series the total Ohm load is additive. 4 + 4 = 8. Wiring in parallel, the load is divided. 4 / 2 = 2. As the amp doesn’t support a 2 Ohm load, I’ll most likely damage the amp wiring the speakers in parallel. Can I add a resistor, then wire them in parallel? Should these two speakers be wired in series? Should I just use one speaker?
Mechanical – The calculated speaker box volume for one speaker is 0.35 ft^3. If two speakers will be used, is the volume additive 0.70 ft^3?
Mechanical – I’ve emailed PYLE for a spec sheet (including Fs and Qes), but I do not expect a response as these speakers are made in China. Without that knowledge, is there enough information to calculate ported versus un-ported?
Mechanical – I’ve read that rectangular shapes aren’t the best ‘acoustically.’ What guidelines can you offer for speaker box shape (to house two identical 3-way speakers)?
I’ll post pictures and upload construction plans as things progress.
Thanks in advance for your time and input.
KW
Currently I have a Bluetooth two channel amp driving two ‘rock speakers’ in the back yard. It makes decent stereo sound when we’re splashing around in the pool. I have been given 4 Pyle 5.25 car speakers. I’d like to build two speaker boxes, each housing 2 of these Pyle speakers. These new speakers would replace the ‘rock speakers’ when we are outside and connect to the existing wiring to the Bluetooth amp. I do not plan on leaving them outside 24/7. As I’ve never done this, I’m posting to this forum for insight, guidance and the practical opportunity to learn about speaker design.
Given:
Grace Digital BTAR513
2 x 37 watts RMS at 8 ohms
2 x 50 watts RMS at 6 ohms
2 x 70 watts RMS at 4 ohms
Frequency Response: 20 Hz – 20 KHz
PL53BL 5.25” 200 Watt 3-way speakers
100 Watts Rms / 200 Watts Max
1'' High Temperature ASV Voice Coil
20 oz Magnet Structure
1'' Neodymium Film Dome Midrange
3/4'' Piezo Tweeter
Impedance: 4 Ohm
Sensitivity: 89 dB
Frequency Response: 100Hz - 20Khz
Speaker Displacement: 0.14lts
Speaker Box Volume: 0.35 ft^3
Questions:
Electrical – Wiring two speakers in series the total Ohm load is additive. 4 + 4 = 8. Wiring in parallel, the load is divided. 4 / 2 = 2. As the amp doesn’t support a 2 Ohm load, I’ll most likely damage the amp wiring the speakers in parallel. Can I add a resistor, then wire them in parallel? Should these two speakers be wired in series? Should I just use one speaker?
Mechanical – The calculated speaker box volume for one speaker is 0.35 ft^3. If two speakers will be used, is the volume additive 0.70 ft^3?
Mechanical – I’ve emailed PYLE for a spec sheet (including Fs and Qes), but I do not expect a response as these speakers are made in China. Without that knowledge, is there enough information to calculate ported versus un-ported?
Mechanical – I’ve read that rectangular shapes aren’t the best ‘acoustically.’ What guidelines can you offer for speaker box shape (to house two identical 3-way speakers)?
I’ll post pictures and upload construction plans as things progress.
Thanks in advance for your time and input.
KW
Don't add a resistor, you will simply waste power by converting electrical energy into heat.
Series connection is the way to go if you want to use two Pyles per channel.
Series connection is the way to go if you want to use two Pyles per channel.
The volume is additive. Two Pyles in one box need twice the volume of one.
Vehicle speakers like this do well in large sealed boxes or ones with an aperiodic vent.
The good old "rectangular" box is hard to beat, if only for ease of construction. Check out the "Golden Ratio" of l x b x h.
Vehicle speakers like this do well in large sealed boxes or ones with an aperiodic vent.
The good old "rectangular" box is hard to beat, if only for ease of construction. Check out the "Golden Ratio" of l x b x h.
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That's all looking good for the intended purpose! 😎
Don't forget to lightly fill the enclosures with sound absorbent material such BAF wadding, or even the contents of an old pillow!
If the enclosures sound 'boomy', you can add an aperiodic vent to each: https://diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/Aperiodic/Aperiodic-Enclosures.htm
P.S. If adding a resistive vent, distribute the enclosure absorbent material in such a way as to allow free air flow from the Pyles to the vent.
Don't forget to lightly fill the enclosures with sound absorbent material such BAF wadding, or even the contents of an old pillow!
If the enclosures sound 'boomy', you can add an aperiodic vent to each: https://diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/Aperiodic/Aperiodic-Enclosures.htm
P.S. If adding a resistive vent, distribute the enclosure absorbent material in such a way as to allow free air flow from the Pyles to the vent.
I'm just popping back to say that you'd be best to make the internal volume about 10% greater to allow for the space taken up by internal timber battens and the Pyle drivers themselves.
I'll account for the internal battens and volume of the speakers when finalizing the Golden Ratio dims (which will dictate the dims for the 3/4" MDF structural members.
Have you done this before?
I know if I tried it, I would cut-cut-cut and still be too short.
Don't over-engineer a poolside speaker. Box not too small and no rattles, a bit of old blanket, done.
Not in a compact enclosure like this.
Regarding box volume, may I ask from where you obtained the above figure?
I physically measured the speaker and plugged in the values to determine driver displacement. Then took that information to calculate speaker box volume. Then doubled the volume, based on the fact I'm using two speakers. If this is not correct, please advise.
I can't speak to the efficacy of the calculator, but a total enclosure volume of 0.7 cu ft looks reasonable to me.
I would have quessed at around 1.0 cu ft if you hadn't come up with a figure.
However, it's best not to overdo the volume because a larger sealed box might produce a weak bass response.
For this type of project, if it looks right then it probably is right - and your drawings do look right! 😎
More progress. I had lots of coffee and 'free time' this morning so I went ahead and modeled the speaker and the terminal block. The parts are not perfect, but 'close enough' for 'form, fit, and function.' Which brings me to the next question:
Mechanical - These speakers need grills. I'm going to design a metal frame with stretched fabric. What kind of fabric would be best? Assume most times I will move the speakers 'out of the weather' when not in use.
Mechanical - These speakers need grills. I'm going to design a metal frame with stretched fabric. What kind of fabric would be best? Assume most times I will move the speakers 'out of the weather' when not in use.
Since you'll be moving the speakers about, I suggest you go for metal mesh grill covers for maximum physical protection of the drivers.
There are lots of these to choose from, like the set of four shown in the link below.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07S7KB...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Note that this particular link gives clear information about the size of the covers (inside/outside diameter & screw hole spacing) which is essential for ensuring compatability with your Pyles.
P.S. I don't know if these particular grills are deep enough for your Pyles. Does the central mid/tweeter pod stand proud of the speaker chassis?
P.P.S. I'm assuming your Pyles were not supplied complete with grills!
There are lots of these to choose from, like the set of four shown in the link below.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07S7KB...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Note that this particular link gives clear information about the size of the covers (inside/outside diameter & screw hole spacing) which is essential for ensuring compatability with your Pyles.
P.S. I don't know if these particular grills are deep enough for your Pyles. Does the central mid/tweeter pod stand proud of the speaker chassis?
P.P.S. I'm assuming your Pyles were not supplied complete with grills!
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