Terminal Blocks for external crossovers

[TroutBear]

I've rounded up the components to assemble crossovers for the Seas Exotic 2 ways; given the size of the Goertz air coil foil inductors and Mundorf Supreme caps this will be an external crossover. Although I will not be moving speakers around much, I'm considering either the Cardas plated copper binding posts or possibly their ACBP plated copper added brass versions that take spade lugs at the speaker cabinets. For the crossover I was thinking of terminal blocks for their input / output connections. I've seen the Eaton Bussman sets but wondered if anyone knows of a source for terminal blocks with material sets closer to the level of the other components [copper / silver or gold flash plating] - seems a bit of a shift to use this level of parts and interconnect wiring then interject nickel plated steel connections into the path. And no, I'm not interested in direct soldering all. Thanks

 

[HiDave]

When I built a new set of external cross-overs I used "test lead" plugs & sockets....you can get the sockets with push on tabs & the plugs you can get with small screws to fix the cables to.
MC/Staubli, 4mm Shrouded test socket, Gold plated brass body, 6.3mm tag

https://cpc.farnell.com/mc-multi-contact/23-3060-21/socket-4mm-shrouded-black-pk5/dp/CN15676

MC/Staubli, 4mm Shrouded test plug, Gold plated brass body 32A, 1000V

For other wiring I soldered the components together, but in connecting the wires to the cones & the back panel, I used M4 brass bolts & stainless washers & nuts..& then soldered tin plated OFC M4 ring eye crimp terminals onto the cables...then bolt through the eyes & backing FR4 board to fix it.

I need to copy my write up & paste it on to this forum as here is a write up I did for the place where I bought some of the components. Photos should give you an idea on the different ways I connected the wires etc.

https://www.hificollective.co.uk/blog/monitor-audio-bronze-bx2-speaker-upgrade.html

 

[GM]

And no, I'm not interested in direct soldering all.

Good thing as it's a relatively poor substitute to proper cold weld (crimped) joints based on all the UL/CSA testing I was exposed to and/or involved in for decades, but the cost to do it properly is too far over budget for the vast majority of DIYers, so always recommend contacting Southwire or similar application engineers for 'up to the minute' choices (assuming such access is still available to the public at large as I'm ~28 yrs out of date now).

 

[rayma]

I don't see how you can avoid soldering, especially with the Goertz,
and the desire to avoid steel or aluminum in terminal blocks.

Maybe something like these brass terminal blocks could work.
https://www.delcity.net/store/Stud-...8aUPtR9vIsBvMeXDMS6po8jv69kOYs0RoCqu8QAvD_BwE

 

[Hearinspace]

Or something like these?

 

[chrisng]

Terminal blocks for car audio:

https://www.dbscaraudio.com/smd-dcl-4.2-4-slot-copper-terminal-block.html

 

[GM]

I don't see how you can avoid soldering, especially with the Goertz,

https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/brands/termi-foil.html

 

[HiDave]

Terminal blocks for car audio:

View attachment 1072793

https://www.dbscaraudio.com/smd-dcl-4.2-4-slot-copper-terminal-block.html

Forgot about those..only trouble is that they are designed for ring/eye terminals on the cables...not for bare wire.

I thing the best thing are electrical "terminal strip blocks", which metal, brass or copper tubes with two screws through to clamp the cables & encased in white/clear plastic & are for general wiring, available in many V & A ratings/cable sizes & you just cut to length.


Just an example...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Connector-Strip-Terminal-Barrier-Electrical/dp/B07T8P1D3F?th=1

 

[Hearinspace]

https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/brands/termi-foil.html

I had no idea those were out there. Fantastic. Thanks !

 

[GM]

Or something like these?

Right, some version of these nearest equivalent to a true cold soldered/welded joint that's appropriate for the wire size/type/material required for the intended app, so look to industrial low voltage control panel wiring terminal strips or its ring tongue equivalent, mounting/torguing hardware.

 

[TroutBear]

Appreciate the suggestions. After finding this article https://positive-feedback.com/Issue70/duelund.htm. I ordered a handful of these copper blocks ti try out.
https://www.gordonelectricsupply.co...6?text=NSI+6TC+6-14+AWG+EXTR.+CU+LUG&lsi=true

Since the crossovers and speakers are being built for my use, I thought I'd simply run the cables from the amp and from speaker binding posts into the box and attach there via the lugs

 

[HiDave]

Appreciate the suggestions. After finding this article https://positive-feedback.com/Issue70/duelund.htm. I ordered a handful of these copper blocks ti try out.
https://www.gordonelectricsupply.co...6?text=NSI+6TC+6-14+AWG+EXTR.+CU+LUG&lsi=true

Since the crossovers and speakers are being built for my use, I thought I'd simply run the cables from the amp and from speaker binding posts into the box and attach there via the lugs

You are introducing a lot of extraneous metal into the signal path with those all metal terminal blocks.....this is why I suggested the copper/brass tube with wire clamp screws which is encased in plastic. Same with big chunky binding posts, where a much slimmer high amp/voltage signal test lead post is much better at reducing extraneous metal from the signal path.

 

[jean-paul]

Phoenix MKDSN 1.5 or 2.5 connector blocks are plated brass and if you mean passive crossover filters on PCBs and connections from PCB to speaker units then these are fine. Almost never fail as well. When they fail in power applications it is often because of the wrong torque on the screws.