EDIT - Project revisited in 2025:
I've had a long running plan for a 2-way with a 10"/12" and Seos 12, originally planned with a Supravox 285GMF which I had but a couple of years ago I sold all the DIY bits so starting again.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/1-cd-w-seos-supravox-for-small-room.340786/#post-5963019
Over the past year, I've been assembling parts, with the Seos12, MiniDSP 2x4HD and now, a quad of Volt BM2500.4 16-Ohms.

Volt BM2500.4 by Robert Seymour, on Flickr

Volt BM25004 Comparison by Robert Seymour, on Flickr

Volt Seos by Robert Seymour, on Flickr
I had not originally planned an MTM but these four 16-Ohms BM2500.4s came up at a bargain price and although cosmetically challenged, they all measure really well and excellent matching! Only thing, with the grilles in place I can't measure the Vas with the DATSv2 by adding mass to the cone!
Cabinet wise, these always seem to be in ported enclosures but with such a low Qts, 0.25, they don't model well. I'm thinking possibly going sealed and then with their 8mm Xmax, applying EQ to bring the bass up. I have an ATC/Castle Classic subwoofer to fill in the last octave if required, and my new room will be around 16ft square so good size but not massive space to fill.
Well, bit of an update on this project...
Various changes happened and I sold off a few bits but the long and the short is I now have a pair of Volt BM2500.4 drivers, current spec 8Ohm to restart the project around.
These are much newer versions that closer match the current spec rather than the ~90s ones I had before.
One thing I really liked with the previous quad of BM2500.4 drivers was the punch and dynamics in the bass (in a home enviroment) which was quite addictive, I've lost some headroom by only having the singles now but the previous drivers were sold to a friend last year. So...
Various changes happened and I sold off a few bits but the long and the short is I now have a pair of Volt BM2500.4 drivers, current spec 8Ohm to restart the project around.
These are much newer versions that closer match the current spec rather than the ~90s ones I had before.
One thing I really liked with the previous quad of BM2500.4 drivers was the punch and dynamics in the bass (in a home enviroment) which was quite addictive, I've lost some headroom by only having the singles now but the previous drivers were sold to a friend last year. So...
I've had a long running plan for a 2-way with a 10"/12" and Seos 12, originally planned with a Supravox 285GMF which I had but a couple of years ago I sold all the DIY bits so starting again.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/1-cd-w-seos-supravox-for-small-room.340786/#post-5963019
Over the past year, I've been assembling parts, with the Seos12, MiniDSP 2x4HD and now, a quad of Volt BM2500.4 16-Ohms.

Volt BM2500.4 by Robert Seymour, on Flickr

Volt BM25004 Comparison by Robert Seymour, on Flickr

Volt Seos by Robert Seymour, on Flickr
I had not originally planned an MTM but these four 16-Ohms BM2500.4s came up at a bargain price and although cosmetically challenged, they all measure really well and excellent matching! Only thing, with the grilles in place I can't measure the Vas with the DATSv2 by adding mass to the cone!
Cabinet wise, these always seem to be in ported enclosures but with such a low Qts, 0.25, they don't model well. I'm thinking possibly going sealed and then with their 8mm Xmax, applying EQ to bring the bass up. I have an ATC/Castle Classic subwoofer to fill in the last octave if required, and my new room will be around 16ft square so good size but not massive space to fill.
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Current plan for the Seos12 is probably the BMS 4550 still, gives a bit of leeway on crossover points.
Taken from the Volt website, suggested enclosure ideas.
https://voltloudspeakers.co.uk/loudspeakers/bm25004-10/
Maybe use the manufacturers data and see if it gives similar box dimensions when you model one of them with a suitable software packaged Once you have verified this just add the 2nd driver and see what the program then suggest. Two 10" volts per speaker should provide enough bass for most people.
https://voltloudspeakers.co.uk/loudspeakers/bm25004-10/
Maybe use the manufacturers data and see if it gives similar box dimensions when you model one of them with a suitable software packaged Once you have verified this just add the 2nd driver and see what the program then suggest. Two 10" volts per speaker should provide enough bass for most people.
Had a chat with Volt, managed to gently prize off the grille of one cone. The cone had so much dust under the grille, 1/3rd of it (bottom when mounted I guess) had a whole matted almost felt like assembly of material that I took off, and using a slightly damp cloth, gently wiped away more dust from the cone. There is a little staining on the cone and some more engrained dust remains, mostly on the surround closet in this photo.
Spke with Volt again, they advised against a damp cloth as the cone doping is water based, and certainly against anything like isopropyl alcohol.
Any other ideas on what I could try?
Spke with Volt again, they advised against a damp cloth as the cone doping is water based, and certainly against anything like isopropyl alcohol.
Any other ideas on what I could try?
Yeah I had seen the suggest enclosures, now I have one of the cones off I can measure the VAS.Taken from the Volt website, suggested enclosure ideas.
https://voltloudspeakers.co.uk/loudspeakers/bm25004-10/
Maybe use the manufacturers data and see if it gives similar box dimensions when you model one of them with a suitable software packaged Once you have verified this just add the 2nd driver and see what the program then suggest. Two 10" volts per speaker should provide enough bass for most people.
Shown here, where one half is fine but the other is not. I've just tried some parcel tape which worked a bit but not taking much off each time.
If you can sensibly re form the grill and re paint them, I am sure you wont notice the bass cone discolouration.
I think your sticky sided tape is maybe the best and safest option. Unless anyone else knows another fool proof method of de dusting not using liquid cleaners, I would just accept this is the best you can get in terms of cone cosmetics.
Enjoy the bass.
I think your sticky sided tape is maybe the best and safest option. Unless anyone else knows another fool proof method of de dusting not using liquid cleaners, I would just accept this is the best you can get in terms of cone cosmetics.
Enjoy the bass.
Yeah I was thinking of rear mounting the bass drivers anyway, behind some fabric for an integrated grille.If you can sensibly re form the grill and re paint them, I am sure you wont notice the bass cone discolouration.
I think your sticky sided tape is maybe the best and safest option. Unless anyone else knows another fool proof method of de dusting not using liquid cleaners, I would just accept this is the best you can get in terms of cone cosmetics.
Enjoy the bass.
Possibly might try a pet hair roller, see if that helps.
Apologies if this is a daft suggestion, but if the coating applied is black, would Volt sell you some to reapply over the whole cone, (unless it would abversely affect performance).
You could also try something like a swiffer and if you have access to an air compressor (or dry compressed air dusters), blow some air (but regulate the output and or distance to not damage).
this looks like it's going to be an impressive speaker when it's finished ! what about buying 4 replacement metal grills and going for a more industrial kind of a look
I did a quick CAD model of what I was thinking, based around just using the golden ratio for the boxes. The two Volt 10" in a ~20 Litre Sealed cabinet each, with the Seos 12 in the middle, covered with a grille cloth for a simpler look. Added in a generic ~100 Litre/12" subwoofer at the bottom. Idea around the modular design is I can then chop and change as the plan evolves rather than building all new cabinets again. Amp/Crossover will be a pair of Hypex FA123 I am in the processes of sourcing (Possibly BTL for the Volt drivers) and then can use the MiniDSP 2x4HD for the subwoofer(s).
For a sub, I still have my Castle ATC PA75-314 driver that's been rebuilt, could be an ideal candidate for a Tapped Horn subwoofer.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/atc-pa75-314-sub.386678/#post-7033465
For a sub, I still have my Castle ATC PA75-314 driver that's been rebuilt, could be an ideal candidate for a Tapped Horn subwoofer.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/atc-pa75-314-sub.386678/#post-7033465
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where did you source the seos wave guide in the UK?I did a quick CAD model of what I was thinking, based around just using the golden ratio for the boxes. The two Volt 10" in a ~20 Litre Sealed cabinet each, with the Seos 12 in the middle, covered with a grille cloth for a simpler look. Added in a generic ~100 Litre/12" subwoofer at the bottom. Idea around the modular design is I can then chop and change as the plan evolves rather than building all new cabinets again. Amp/Crossover will be a pair of Hypex FA123 I am in the processes of sourcing (Possibly BTL for the Volt drivers) and then can use the MiniDSP 2x4HD for the subwoofer(s).
View attachment 1068262
For a sub, I still have my Castle ATC PA75-314 driver that's been rebuilt, could be an ideal candidate for a Tapped Horn subwoofer.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/atc-pa75-314-sub.386678/#post-7033465
It was a second hand item, off eBay. Just had a saved search. Also had a search on hifishark.com too.where did you source the seos wave guide in the UK?
Why? I've yet to see any benefit with a properly stuffed sealed cabinet.using the golden ratio for the boxes.
Show me the audibly significant benefits. Measured.Think external box/baffle eigenmodes.
Never could justify the cost of the necessary quality measurements folks take for granted these days, but was blessed by being 'surrounded' with musical folks with good to extremely keen, hearing, so while I have to leave it for others to prove, they can definitely be audible IME when there's no screen/grill.
That said, IME it was only noticeable by females on smaller baffles relative to the huge ones that were the norm back then, so assume the OP's would be mostly cosmetic, but then you query only addressed the physics of the situation. 😉
That said, IME it was only noticeable by females on smaller baffles relative to the huge ones that were the norm back then, so assume the OP's would be mostly cosmetic, but then you query only addressed the physics of the situation. 😉
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