Hi All,
I am looking at the possibility for using Beyma 15P80Fe/N as Subwoofer for Home theater. The idea is to build 2 diy enclosures using this driver.
When I simulated in Winisd, I get the below responses. With the Fs of 32hz, I am simulating a box tuned to 25hz with 400 watts signal (7 cubic feet enclosure)
Please suggest if it is worth building for subwoofer used for movies or should I wait for any better drivers as this is the only model dealer in India has availability.
Is there a better model to get most of it from this subwoofer (like horn loading)?
My original preference was for 18 inch but it is currently not available at the moment.
SPL
Transfer Fuunction Magnitude
Thanks
I am looking at the possibility for using Beyma 15P80Fe/N as Subwoofer for Home theater. The idea is to build 2 diy enclosures using this driver.
When I simulated in Winisd, I get the below responses. With the Fs of 32hz, I am simulating a box tuned to 25hz with 400 watts signal (7 cubic feet enclosure)
Please suggest if it is worth building for subwoofer used for movies or should I wait for any better drivers as this is the only model dealer in India has availability.
Is there a better model to get most of it from this subwoofer (like horn loading)?
My original preference was for 18 inch but it is currently not available at the moment.
SPL
Transfer Fuunction Magnitude
Thanks
The 15P80 is more of a midbass driver than a true subwoofer.
Are there any other drivers available?
Chris
Are there any other drivers available?
Chris
This driver is surely a woofer, rather than a sub. Xmax is only 4mm (if you go by coil length in relation to gap height). It's strength is its ability to cover a broad range, up to 1kHz even, maybe, at high efficiency.
Thanks Chris. At the moment, they don't have any other stock other than pile of 15P80's.
I wanted to 18PWB1000FE (Fs 27Hz and Xmax 12.5mm) or any other models close to this one but looks like supply chain system for procuring driver from Europe is probably affected
Thanks Ianbo, even I thougt so.. mostly suitable for low / mid bass frequency component in LCR (Behind the screens)
Using 15P80s for midbass drivers L/C/R would be an impressive system!
FWIW, though, depending on your SPL requirements you might find that these drivers work well for you. They're not particularly well-suited for very-low-frequency reproduction, but they have enough cone area to move a useful amount of air. I use 2x 8" woofers per side and find that's plenty for me.
Chris
FWIW, though, depending on your SPL requirements you might find that these drivers work well for you. They're not particularly well-suited for very-low-frequency reproduction, but they have enough cone area to move a useful amount of air. I use 2x 8" woofers per side and find that's plenty for me.
Chris
Thanks Chris.
Would you please mind sharing your LCR components name? Like which brands of 8 inch drivers and tweeters?
Getting some ideas to build on similar products. The dealer here offered to LCR using beyma drivers but they were like one 8 inch (8br40), 5 inch (5mp60) and a tweeter..3 way system
Krisshan,
My system has had two updates in the past couple of years. I set off with the idea of "what happens if the driver diaphragms are acting as pistons through their operating range?", built a 2-way design and liked the results. After comparing with some larger speakers, I noticed they were missing some "punch" in the upper bass area. That led me to a 2.5-way design, documented here:
https://audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=8257
Then, I got the itch to upgrade the tweeters:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/18sound-nsd1095n-as-good-as-it-gets.381895/
So now I have 2x Seas H1252-08 and 1x 18Sound NSD1095N per side. I use a decent Denon AVR to drive them (the front speakers are shared across 4x amp channels to keep the Denon happy - otherwise the impedance would drop below 3ohm in places), and I use a pair of SB65 full-range drivers in aluminium project boxes for rear surrounds. No subwoofers are needed here.
I think AVRs get a bad reputation in the HiFi world, but that's a different discussion for a different time 🙂
I'm really happy with my system, and, apart from building some nicer-looking cabinets, I think I'll keep it for many years.
All the best,
Chris
My system has had two updates in the past couple of years. I set off with the idea of "what happens if the driver diaphragms are acting as pistons through their operating range?", built a 2-way design and liked the results. After comparing with some larger speakers, I noticed they were missing some "punch" in the upper bass area. That led me to a 2.5-way design, documented here:
https://audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=8257
Then, I got the itch to upgrade the tweeters:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/18sound-nsd1095n-as-good-as-it-gets.381895/
So now I have 2x Seas H1252-08 and 1x 18Sound NSD1095N per side. I use a decent Denon AVR to drive them (the front speakers are shared across 4x amp channels to keep the Denon happy - otherwise the impedance would drop below 3ohm in places), and I use a pair of SB65 full-range drivers in aluminium project boxes for rear surrounds. No subwoofers are needed here.
I think AVRs get a bad reputation in the HiFi world, but that's a different discussion for a different time 🙂
I'm really happy with my system, and, apart from building some nicer-looking cabinets, I think I'll keep it for many years.
All the best,
Chris
Wow, this is incredible stuff 🙂 I think you knew every step of the way what you were doing as the idea to tweak an existing good sounding system to better will always be a second thought for most folks but you worked through in and out. Great job 🙂 I admire your work and there's so much inspiration to take from you. Yet, I can't digest the fact that you dont use subwoofers.. lol
Anyway, I was updated by the local dealer here the arrival of Beyma 18P1000FeV2. I hope to squeeze some low end from this driver but subject to some satisfactory results in simulation.