This is my current office design:
Obviously, that corner bit is 'awkward' - perhaps a few cupboards that are hard-ish to reach.. or.....
A subwoofer for the cinema in the next room?
Questions:
1/ Would this be a good idea? Since I'm building this house from scratch I have a lot of freedom when it comes to e.g. the wall thickness, type, bass port etc etc. With the current sketch it'd be about 30 cu feet, padded with felt I guess?
2/ What's a reasonable wall width and material? 1 inch as I indicated here is probably a bit flimsy? Concrete? (no idea how to even create a wall like that.. a mould perhaps?) How about 100mm brick?
3/ What actual driver(s) should I get? What configuration? Depends a lot on how loud I need to go but as an indication the exit port is about 5m from listening and hitting 115dB (thx) at listening for say 10Hz would be ideal?
4/ Any suggestions around the exit port that has to tunnel through the wall? Does it have to be the size of the driver(s) or can I make something more reasonable like 5x5inch or so?
4/
Obviously, that corner bit is 'awkward' - perhaps a few cupboards that are hard-ish to reach.. or.....
A subwoofer for the cinema in the next room?
Questions:
1/ Would this be a good idea? Since I'm building this house from scratch I have a lot of freedom when it comes to e.g. the wall thickness, type, bass port etc etc. With the current sketch it'd be about 30 cu feet, padded with felt I guess?
2/ What's a reasonable wall width and material? 1 inch as I indicated here is probably a bit flimsy? Concrete? (no idea how to even create a wall like that.. a mould perhaps?) How about 100mm brick?
3/ What actual driver(s) should I get? What configuration? Depends a lot on how loud I need to go but as an indication the exit port is about 5m from listening and hitting 115dB (thx) at listening for say 10Hz would be ideal?
4/ Any suggestions around the exit port that has to tunnel through the wall? Does it have to be the size of the driver(s) or can I make something more reasonable like 5x5inch or so?
4/
Probably would be better having the drivers directly facing in the room rather than porting it like a Bandpass
Good point, but the difference is a huge (18"?) hole in the wall that is 'hard to reverse' vs a smallish port.
Id be inclined to line/flush it like a niche and then make the sub enclosure fit in it, that way if you ever change your mind you could fill it with some shelves or make it a built in cabinet/display case. Even if you make it a door sized opening could always be made into one later between the two rooms!
Insulated concrete forms (ICF) are becoming fairly common but block is cheap and easy.
I would have a hard time committing to a sub location without test and measuring, but there are lots of software that will show room modes.
I have four 15"s in an opposed manifold but debated doing a bandpass instead. I would probably have done a bandpass instead if I was building from scratch, I would have had to build it in place in a half attic.
I would have a hard time committing to a sub location without test and measuring, but there are lots of software that will show room modes.
I have four 15"s in an opposed manifold but debated doing a bandpass instead. I would probably have done a bandpass instead if I was building from scratch, I would have had to build it in place in a half attic.
Ah but the challenge with a niche is that as it stands, my livingroom is actually built as a room within a room (block wall, air gap, block wall) and creating a niche would compromise that, or at least make that design much more complicated. Hmm.
Interesting idea. Hm. Can take a look but same problem really, compromising the room-within-room somewhat.
did consider building the subs downfiring into the ceiling, but I don't think I can make it work well enough.
What is the 'flattest' 10" sub when it comes to physical dimensions?
Sadly the reality is that you probably have to build a place before you can really figure out the room behaviour. But a sub crawl is truly only for ultra dedicated audiophiles (at least- to implement the results means dramatically ignoring the livabillity of your room, having a sub in an awkward spot)
Instead if anything I would have the DTS10 be the "main sub" and given that it's hugely overpowered it can probably easily use brute force for the nulls with sufficient room correction (plus miniDSP).
My further thought was that I can scatter a few SVS3000 micro's in strategic places to correct the high frequency nulls a little
Do you have an example of this software? Are you saying if I have the exact room dimensions and materials used (glass and brick mostly, some wood for doors) I can work out where to put subs?
Downfiring?
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You need to find a subwoofer enthusiast and invite him over!
Can you attach some more pics of your entire floorplan? I'm not getting a good sense of your layout so can't really say much, but I would say Don't attach a subwoofer to the house, as it will cause everything to rattle. Is it a free-standing structure? But the wall is 300mm thick?
But you could think about a 'free air' (high Qts) woofer mounted to a baffle that separates the 'sub space' from the 150x150mm opening in the wall, and then it would not need an additional sealed cabinet, just the existing cavity stuffed loosely...?
Can you attach some more pics of your entire floorplan? I'm not getting a good sense of your layout so can't really say much, but I would say Don't attach a subwoofer to the house, as it will cause everything to rattle. Is it a free-standing structure? But the wall is 300mm thick?
But you could think about a 'free air' (high Qts) woofer mounted to a baffle that separates the 'sub space' from the 150x150mm opening in the wall, and then it would not need an additional sealed cabinet, just the existing cavity stuffed loosely...?
To be clear, the house is in the design phase, so I still have the option to do things differently.
So no IB subs then?
Correct, at least my current plan is to have effectively a freestanding sub (the DTS10) with a tiny air gap around it on all sides (building it into a cupboard, but no physical connection between the cupboard and the actual device
What would the sub expert say? =)
I don't see how you could take advantage of an inbuilt sub here (in only the right side wall), due to the main listening axis in the living room....
Sure! Can you go below the concrete(?) foundation and make a concrete subwoofer box underneath? Since you know your exact listening position, you could place it right underneath. Perfect bass! You DO have a sloping ceiling, right? Otherwise your bass is forever fubar...
Currently no slope in the design, no. It is a livingroom first and foremost. I can probably achieve a minor slope of perhaps 1 degree by sacrificing some ceiling height. But intruiging idea to have a sub in the floor.. could theoretically do it since indeed I have full control over the foundation build.
Not sure what you're saying. By inbuilt you mean a sub truly built into the wall? Instead my current idea is basically a 'standard'(ish) sub, completely in a standard enclosure, but positioned on the other side of the wall, and in that office- encased in a custom built wardrobe/office carpentry.
If bass came from only the right side it would be a problem regardless of how it's mounted.
Can you put in a secret root cellar? You might as well make it nice and big under there, but it might get damp. Just brain-storming, right?
Can you put in a secret root cellar? You might as well make it nice and big under there, but it might get damp. Just brain-storming, right?
Right side bass - well, the trope is that bass isn't easy to pinpoint so shouldn't necessarily matter to have only one coming 'from the right'.
But, my plan was to hide a few minisubs - such as the SVS3000 micro- strategically around the room. Of course they can't keep up with a hardcore sub but hopefully can compensate some nulls in the room whilst just upping the power(DSP-wise)
Yes, theoretically I can create everything but keep in mind I want to keep it somewhat simple of possible. This is why effectivey just putting a sub in the next room is appealing to me.
But, my plan was to hide a few minisubs - such as the SVS3000 micro- strategically around the room. Of course they can't keep up with a hardcore sub but hopefully can compensate some nulls in the room whilst just upping the power(DSP-wise)
Yes, theoretically I can create everything but keep in mind I want to keep it somewhat simple of possible. This is why effectivey just putting a sub in the next room is appealing to me.