Hey toute la monde (everyone).
I rig my preamps up so that the phono stage isn't powered until you select it rather than it being lit up all the time.
It seems like a waste of cathode and electric to light and power the phono stage just to save 15 seconds when you need it?
I switch inputs with relays by switching the grounds AKA if you ground it, it turns on (BMW does this - I used to switch positive). I simply add another relay on the phono setting to hit a relay that will connect 12V/B+.
Anyone else do this?
I rig my preamps up so that the phono stage isn't powered until you select it rather than it being lit up all the time.
It seems like a waste of cathode and electric to light and power the phono stage just to save 15 seconds when you need it?
I switch inputs with relays by switching the grounds AKA if you ground it, it turns on (BMW does this - I used to switch positive). I simply add another relay on the phono setting to hit a relay that will connect 12V/B+.
Anyone else do this?
What are small signal tubes specd at, 10,000 hours? 730 hours in a month so divide up 10,000 and you're left with 13.7 months.
My system runs 24/7... 8760H/year... So 10000H isn't a long time anymore... And the electros aren't running all the time, either. The entire stage is only connected while it's being used.
That said, my preamp tubes (except 6N6P which are running hard) will last decades...
That said, my preamp tubes (except 6N6P which are running hard) will last decades...
Its on all the time when i am sitting infront of my main system, sorry for confusion.
My main system is on all the time ( it's the television sound, too. And I sleep to the TV), but the phono is only on while I listen to records...
Ok, there is the on time in the reliability equation, but # of power up cycles may be a more significant factor. To my knowledge, electrolytic capacitors do well constantly biased when properly derated. Better than long unbiased intervals. Saving Joules from the grid is a different priority.
I adhere to "Green" energy-saving principles....
My monthly electric bill is around $40-55.
So when I'm not using something, it's "off".
And I have more "Green" in my bank account.
My monthly electric bill is around $40-55.
So when I'm not using something, it's "off".
And I have more "Green" in my bank account.
The last time I paid a monthly bill for hydro (electric), It was 300$ or so... That included computers, A/C, and a block heater in the winter... Ontario has expensive electric. That's why i moved into a place that included power 10 years ago... Good luck finding "tout inclus" now though... I have "free" power, but I don't need to waste it...
My 'All In One' 3W amp in the workshop has a tiny switch on the front panel that shuts down the heater
on the mag phono 12AX7 front end. So hopefully avoids cathode interface. And saves a few Watt-Hours.
But even more importantly helps keep the temperature inside down. The rectifier is SS. Built in 1968, it runs everyday.
Ontario is 60% nuclear power. And 20 % water power. The power companies across Canada were large
customers for the test equipment we sold. Most had very active research groups. Plenty of interesting
projects to witness in action.
on the mag phono 12AX7 front end. So hopefully avoids cathode interface. And saves a few Watt-Hours.
But even more importantly helps keep the temperature inside down. The rectifier is SS. Built in 1968, it runs everyday.
Ontario is 60% nuclear power. And 20 % water power. The power companies across Canada were large
customers for the test equipment we sold. Most had very active research groups. Plenty of interesting
projects to witness in action.
Attachments
In my opinion, that heater switch is unecessary, and can introduce some cathode stripping effects due to B+ staying on the plates.
I do, but not as elegantly as you. I just have a box with a phono preamplifier, source select switch, balance and volume control. Everything except the phono preamplifier is passive. The on/off switch is marked 'Only on for records'.
......And when I kick on my (restored//modded) 60 year old Eighteen Tube console stereo, ALL the tubes are "lit" and functional.
It lasted for 6 decades that way with no "tube worries", no warm-up delay mandates, no surge protections.
Of course, it was built long before the internet and its assorted "peccadillos" and "worry-worts" became all the rage.
It lasted for 6 decades that way with no "tube worries", no warm-up delay mandates, no surge protections.
Of course, it was built long before the internet and its assorted "peccadillos" and "worry-worts" became all the rage.
My preamplifier consists of 8 tubes. There is a main switch on the rear, switching the heatings. This switch gives power to the IEC power outlets for the power amplifier monoblocks (also for their heating).
There is another switch on the front, turning on the HV for the anodes. It also energizes an auxiliary relay that in turn energizes the HV in the power amplifiers.
So the heating is nearly always on, except for longer absence, like vacation.
There is another switch on the front, turning on the HV for the anodes. It also energizes an auxiliary relay that in turn energizes the HV in the power amplifiers.
So the heating is nearly always on, except for longer absence, like vacation.
Ya but why waste the power and tubes for no reason? You don't leave the light on the in the bathroom because you might go in there later, right? 😛
I'm with you on surge though... I have built amplifiers that sound like a Degauss when I hit the power... The fuse doesn't blow and the lights don't dip.. It's fine.
EDIT: My tube phono stage uses 8 double triodes... 330V@ ~50mA plus heaters... The stage uses ~ 40 watts. No need to light it up if you're not playing records, right?
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Only problem there could be with turning on the tube RIAA stage just before use is that the stage may need some warmup time before it sounds good, so the first few songs may not sound their best.
That's for the tubes to start conducting. The preamp will be operational then, but still may not sound up to par until circuit voltages stabilize after the warmup drift settles out. But then again, there may be some stages that start with a bang, too, with no need for much warmup time at all.