I just changed .ca to .co.uk - there are 8 kinds of capacitors in stock?
https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/produc...YZGpupGsIJzcltZ2js5uHlIgALQI0MpQAi4aQSEsEq1AA
https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/produc...YZGpupGsIJzcltZ2js5uHlIgALQI0MpQAi4aQSEsEq1AA
I'd go with this one: it's 91 pence and 105°C rated.
https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/nichicon/UEP1J330MPD/2597839
https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/nichicon/UEP1J330MPD/2597839
Sorry. I didn’t say, I was looking for a radial one. One that matches the one that has blown. The holes in the PCB are quite far apart.
Thanks though.
Thanks though.
The ones I linked are radial. You want axial.
In reality, you are going to find radial. It's really not difficult to extent the leads. Infact, I'd cut the old one out at the capacitor and solder the new one to the leads of the old one.
In reality, you are going to find radial. It's really not difficult to extent the leads. Infact, I'd cut the old one out at the capacitor and solder the new one to the leads of the old one.
Yeah sorry, I meant axial. I found the axial ones that I needed anyway.
This is the circuit that I think is in the speakers, quite possibly horribly wrong though, haha
The only info that are on the resistors is 5W1R5K, could anyone let me know how you determine the resistance of them from that?
Thanks again
This is the circuit that I think is in the speakers, quite possibly horribly wrong though, haha
The only info that are on the resistors is 5W1R5K, could anyone let me know how you determine the resistance of them from that?
Thanks again
I do think you might be making this more difficult than it is.
There are many professional UK suppliers of loudspeaker components:
https://wilmslowaudio.co.uk/pages/store
Wilmslow Audio. Impact Audio. Falcon Acoustics. Blue Aran. KJF Audio. All very pleasant enthusiasts who answer the 'Phone.
Any Engineer knows you need good tools. I own an excellent £70 Multimeter which tells me a lot:
There are many professional UK suppliers of loudspeaker components:
https://wilmslowaudio.co.uk/pages/store
Wilmslow Audio. Impact Audio. Falcon Acoustics. Blue Aran. KJF Audio. All very pleasant enthusiasts who answer the 'Phone.
Any Engineer knows you need good tools. I own an excellent £70 Multimeter which tells me a lot:
Here. Readily available upgrade to film - in stock at Mouser.
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Nichicon/PHC1255330KS?qs=sPbYRqrBIVnK/X5JqQ8A5Q==
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Nichicon/PHC1255330KS?qs=sPbYRqrBIVnK/X5JqQ8A5Q==
Did you make the cabinet for those speakers yourself as well? Or did you just buy new speakers to put in existing cabinets?
My interest and speciality is audio filters. I know quite a lot about speaker drivers too. I have no real resources for cabinet building. Prefer to buy a second-hand pair and fix them:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/restoring-monitor-audio-r300-bookshelf-speakers.203461/
You really should be fixing these things. I really don't know why you are so confident the capacitors have blown. I see no sign of measuring having gone on here.
Do they work in any fashion, or are they totally dead? Which part of the audio spectrum is going wrong? Bass or top end? This is basic troubleshooting.
Rough idea how your speakers work. Ignore inaccuracies in my guesswork:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/restoring-monitor-audio-r300-bookshelf-speakers.203461/
You really should be fixing these things. I really don't know why you are so confident the capacitors have blown. I see no sign of measuring having gone on here.
Do they work in any fashion, or are they totally dead? Which part of the audio spectrum is going wrong? Bass or top end? This is basic troubleshooting.
Rough idea how your speakers work. Ignore inaccuracies in my guesswork:
This is why I’m confident the capacitor has blown, haha
I haven’t had time to check the other components in the circuit yet, I’ll find some time over the Easter weekend.
I do want to fix them, as I’ve already got some Wharfedale diamond 220’s and 210’s in a home cinema set up and love them.
Just gaining some knowledge on how the circuits work to be able to fix them myself.
I haven’t had time to check the other components in the circuit yet, I’ll find some time over the Easter weekend.
I do want to fix them, as I’ve already got some Wharfedale diamond 220’s and 210’s in a home cinema set up and love them.
Just gaining some knowledge on how the circuits work to be able to fix them myself.
That looks like there was a problem with the amp that put DC into the speaker. Hook the woofer directly to the speaker wire and see if it still plays. It might be fried so before you spend money check it. If you have a meter check the tweeter for a shorted or open voice coil. It should measure between 3 and 6 ohms depending on the impedance of the tweeter. Does the woofer rub if you try to gently move the cone?
Severe Scorch marks on the 5W 1.5R bass shunt resistor too!
Obviously overheated. I would order some new ones too. And get a multimeter.
After that, we can only hope the drivers have survived what looks like severe abuse.
Obviously overheated. I would order some new ones too. And get a multimeter.
After that, we can only hope the drivers have survived what looks like severe abuse.
I have never seen the electrolytic capacitor "pop" in a crossover network like this one. This electrolytic capacitor is not a good quality capacitor. Replace them all with the better quality ones like Elna or Mundorf 100Vdc if you like to keep the speakers.
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I used to make caps blow up like that when I was a kid. Just wire it to a line cord and plug it in.