They may not have enough current capability for a speaker crossover, so check their data sheet before use.
Yep mixed with something else in the treble...the black ones with 2 leads... very clear and transparent but on the ligth side of weigth...sorta of Audyn Cap plus but at realistic price. Both alone are too much of a same thing. The Panasonic being cheap easy to trÿ..choose in 250Vdc or more
It is listed as Panasonic metallized polypropylene Film Capacitor 2.2uF 400V 3% MPP. What other spec. should I be looking at?
If it's the ECW series, the Panasonic data sheet goes into considerable detail about permissible current limits.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/315/ABD0000C202-947675.pdf
Metallized construction is not even close to film and foil types, which are preferred for speaker crossovers.
But film and foil capacitors are larger, heavier, and more expensive. Here are some examples.
https://www.parts-express.com/electronic-parts/capacitors/film-and-foil-crossover-capacitors
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/315/ABD0000C202-947675.pdf
Metallized construction is not even close to film and foil types, which are preferred for speaker crossovers.
But film and foil capacitors are larger, heavier, and more expensive. Here are some examples.
https://www.parts-express.com/electronic-parts/capacitors/film-and-foil-crossover-capacitors
Are the 3% not the red ones ???
I am talking of the EC-WFE. You can mix them with something smoother and weigther...e.g Monacor axial mkp to stay on the cheap side. Or 716P orange drop.
Also not so expensive and as good despite mkt...make some try with mkt 1813 250Vdc...cheaper are the russian k73-16 , less shouty and more balanced than first level price mkps.
I am talking of the EC-WFE. You can mix them with something smoother and weigther...e.g Monacor axial mkp to stay on the cheap side. Or 716P orange drop.
Also not so expensive and as good despite mkt...make some try with mkt 1813 250Vdc...cheaper are the russian k73-16 , less shouty and more balanced than first level price mkps.
I'm planning to add a 2.2uF cap in parallel with a 5.6uF Jantzen superior Z cap. I'm not sure the result will be what I want so I thought I would try a $3 cap. If it works I would replace it with a Jantzen or Munford.
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Yep agreed, the equilibrium is quite good with the jantzen sup I believe the hig mid and treble will be too much ligth in weigth and too much clear in that value. But panasonic is cheap, try both 0.1 uF with it and the bigger value but make a try with the CDE 740c or another one of the list I given but the 716P for the bigger value (imo the 716P will be too much a veil for the Jantzen Sup)
@rayma ...you may be surprised in a speaker filter as a decoupling cap. Of course if monney not a concern there are better but not in the same price range. And its sonic clarity may be handy in // in some filter...I have it in my toolbox...good surprise.
@rayma ...you may be surprised in a speaker filter as a decoupling cap. Of course if monney not a concern there are better but not in the same price range. And its sonic clarity may be handy in // in some filter...I have it in my toolbox...good surprise.
I don't really understand the replies but to clarify my goal, it is to reduce overly loud/bright upper mid range piano notes.
Short answer : then do not use the Panasonic but try the 716P.
You also can increase a little the input R or try a L pad to reduce the spl if the treble is too shooty.
You also can increase a little the input R or try a L pad to reduce the spl if the treble is too shooty.
Yes, make sure you get the 716P, but not the 715P which has steel leads.
Decoupling capacitors are more suitable for speakers, being intended for higher ripple current.
Most metallized film are more for coupling or line level filters.
Decoupling capacitors are more suitable for speakers, being intended for higher ripple current.
Most metallized film are more for coupling or line level filters.
little problem is iirc 716P is not > to 0.47 uF ... can become too much bulky, I didn't remember that.
In spite of, op could use a cheap Clarity cap : CS or range below. But anyway if the frequency cut off is good and if the unit is a treble at seing the capacitance values, I would try first to increase the resistor value... which could be made easily in serie (for testing purpose to find the value you like best with ears and if needed of course)
In spite of, op could use a cheap Clarity cap : CS or range below. But anyway if the frequency cut off is good and if the unit is a treble at seing the capacitance values, I would try first to increase the resistor value... which could be made easily in serie (for testing purpose to find the value you like best with ears and if needed of course)
Then also focus on the resistor value, which will adjust the relative level of the driver as well as the crossover point.
After you settle on a preferred level, then experiment more with capacitors. Of course, the R and C adjustments
will interact and need some iteration.
I believe a resistor's effect is reduced as the frequency increases. And a cap's effect is reduced as the frequency decreases. So I want to reduce the upper frequency of the mid range filter. Hence the parallel cap uF increase.
It's my native (and only) language, so I get a lot of practice. And I've been working
on my technical writing skills, too. First principle: throw out the unnecessary words.
Sort of the opposite of talking, at least for most people.
on my technical writing skills, too. First principle: throw out the unnecessary words.
Sort of the opposite of talking, at least for most people.
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A resistor's inherent effect is independent of frequency, but in conjunction with reactive components like L and/or C,
the combination of parts will have an effect that is function of frequency.
In this case, the easiest way is to adjust R for the best overall midrange level, and then adjust C for suitable crossover action.
Then recheck R to see if your preference has changed due to changing the value of C. Iteration is likely to be needed.
I’m not so sure the current is a huge issue. Speaker crossovers run no more current than amps that power them. Maybe 30A peaks for high power Class AB or D amps. Most music is under a few amps. Especially mid range and tweeters. Large caps like air conditioning unit motor run are huge because they get pounded with 20A at 400v+ 60Hz AC continuously and need to last for years under continuous use.
There is good info on classification of caps here:
https://www.tdk-electronics.tdk.com...1513474ba/pdf-generaltechnicalinformation.pdf
I have used radial MKP caps normally used in amps for crossovers and they sound fine. And I have used large crossover caps inside amps.
There is good info on classification of caps here:
https://www.tdk-electronics.tdk.com...1513474ba/pdf-generaltechnicalinformation.pdf
I have used radial MKP caps normally used in amps for crossovers and they sound fine. And I have used large crossover caps inside amps.