Using a TPA3116D2 amp, (50watt L/R, 100watt sub), what should I expect if I pair it with a 10" 600watt subwoofer?
...my frame of reference being 6"/25watt powered subwoofer
...my frame of reference being 6"/25watt powered subwoofer
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You should expect
- you will never overload your subwoofer thermally
- tpa3116 will probably not deliver 100 W, unless you use a 2 ohm sub with near respective max supply voltage (see data sheet!)
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According to the documentation, lower limit is 3.2ohm. @4ohm 24V 100W, 20V 90W. My PSI out is 22.5V but regardless.
I worded the question poorly, I should say: I don't know how a large subwoofer works, what can I expect "sound wise" is it going to produce to same range of frequencies at the same volume as a sub with the same SPL but lower max volume
All depends on how loud you use it.
In normal spl, absolutely nothing is going to happen. No miracle. No surprise.
If you play it very loud, you will hear nasty clipping distortion and your amp will shut down.
Likely. Or burn.
In normal spl, absolutely nothing is going to happen. No miracle. No surprise.
If you play it very loud, you will hear nasty clipping distortion and your amp will shut down.
Likely. Or burn.
ok, so no magic minimum, potentially still an upgrade from my faux-logitech subwoofer (79spl running at 25watt max vs 88spl running at between 50-95watt max),
Assuming 79dB at 25watts (around 66dB at 1watt, quite pathetic), 50 watts should be no more than 82dB (+3dB), and 100 watts 86dB (+6dB). As a voice coils heat up, it's impedance rises, so the same voltage input will produce less output, "power compression".
It's unlikely the faux-logitech subwoofer is only 66dB 1w/1meter, so may be into power compression even at "25 watts".
The 10" sub should have less voice coil heating and more sensitivity than the smaller sub, but without testing, it's all guesses.
Sorry, I assumed SPL is always listed as 1watt/1meter... the 6" subs SPL is 79db 1w/1meter. It's built in amp maxes out at 25watts. The 10" is SPl is 87db (1watt/1meter). The amp Id be hooking it upto maxes at 100watts. I think the math would work out something like this..
I tried testing
Often sensitivity is listed as 2.83 volts into whatever impedance, which works out to 1 watt at 8ohm, 2watts at 4 ohm, 4 watts at 2 ohm, a 6dB range.
Since the impedance can vary from the DCR up to 20 (or more) times that in the sub range, and sensitivity may be far lower in the lower "sub" range, for instance 79dB at 200 Hz, but 54dB at 40 Hz, a single number won't tell much.
Your math is correct, but does not account for frequency response, and the sensitivity/impedance differences.
That's always best!
Art
60 watts at 4 ohms, or just shy of 105 dB. That is assuming full bridge class D on a 22.5 volt supply. The power supply voltage determines the power - period. This cannot be cheated in any way. Any higher numbers reported would be a lie. Real world SPL (effective loudness, what you would measure on an SPL meter) is 10 to 15 dB LESS than what you calculate. A speaker playing anything resembling music does not run at full power ALL the time - if it did it would just sound like a steady tone. The average power has to be less if it is to sound like anything. Voice coil heat reduces the loudness further. You might get a steady state 70 Hz tone to measure 100 to 102 dB. Maybe the full 105dB if you could take the reading in under one second before things heat up.
When you start to hear distortion playing actual music, you would be at some 90 dB (at one meter). Some people consider that “too loud”. It’s louder than what would be recommended for sure. I don’t consider that to be “loud” at all - but probably “louder” than I normally listen.
The subwoofer was pretty awful. Its gets louder than my mini-sub, mechanical noise and distortion stat a lot sooner. I have a single 2way speaker I couldn't figure out a use for. Maybe Ill use the bass channel on the amp for that, and the L/R for a pair of spl efficinet mid-bass drivers. Stick in the bedroom.
