"Budget is $300-800 US." They are $870 for the barebones kit. So around 1100 built out with all the rest of the materials, MDF etc. if you really skimped. Maybe I am missing something? I think Joe's design should land you around $700 for the hamlets. I have never priced it out though.
Sorry, as Nordo is in Australia, I remembered it as $A.
Exchange rate is about 1.4:1, shipping from the US is required and 10% tax is paid on items + shipping. $US900 + shipping + GST is about $A1550.
Hi Nordo,
I’m glad you are going to give the TL’s a try!
Cheers,
X
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor.273524/post-6940341
I’m glad you are going to give the TL’s a try!
Cheers,
X
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor.273524/post-6940341
The RS225 is such a cool looking driver, I'd love to use it some time although I have quite enough speakers at the moment. It's been used in several award winning designs as well as the FAST noted above.
I imagine the bass from the transmission line enclosure will really be something.
Geoff
I imagine the bass from the transmission line enclosure will really be something.
Geoff
I simply love the RS225 driver. It is a beast to be reckoned with at it's price point. The bass they produce is very nice.
The RS225-8 is actually the star here. I haven’t been able to find a replacement from another manufacturer at any price. Mostly the smooth flat and wide bandwidth with the perfect combo of Qts, Fs, and Vas. Very low distortion and first breakup peak at 7kHz.
From specs alone, the SB Acoustics SB20PFC-8 might be getting there, much cheaper (A$60 v A$129) but very few builds as far as I can see. It should sound very nice - its little brother SB16PFC does, anyway.
However, no way does the SB look as cool and the RS225 has such glowing reviews and been used in so many successful projects that it must be doing pretty much everything right.
Geoff
Hi X
I've read all of the first page of your FAST thread, as well as the next 5 or 6 pages.
What I can't find any information on is:-
1. What did you use for the 10F enclosure (or what is it's dimensions/ volume)? And is it filled at all?
2. I can't find any information on the filing for the transmission line - what was used, how dense, and exactly where it was placed?
The filling is critical for the TL to produce a smooth response.
I know you talk about using trial and error, but surely that would only be for the fine tuning.
Also do you think the Vifa TC9FD is a worthy alternative to the 10F? And if so, would the Vifa need adjustments to the Xover?
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You should post questions in the thread for that speaker. But please use the search feature. I did mention in the notes that the rear chamber is easiest if you use a circa 11in sprits cone or “pylon” that they use for kids to practice soccer/futbol. Stuff it with fiberglass or poly fill and leave last 3in behind driver open. Line walls of first 3in with felt or melamine foam glued into the inside walls. The cone needs to be sealed airtight vs the TL internal volume. Alternatively you can make a tall 5 sided pyramid “Dagger” rear chamber. Volume circa 1.5L to 3L. It’s not critical.
for the damping and stuffing you can search the thread for “stuffing” and “damping” plan. You should start reading the couple of examples of builds people have made and documented. You will see the insides and understand.
Vunce made one, I made several, and many other since. Please read thread.
For example:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor.273524/page-149
Soccer cone:
Wall damping material:
Btw, searching through the thread I see a great set built by Bschook
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor.273524/post-6792562
for the damping and stuffing you can search the thread for “stuffing” and “damping” plan. You should start reading the couple of examples of builds people have made and documented. You will see the insides and understand.
Vunce made one, I made several, and many other since. Please read thread.
For example:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor.273524/page-149
Soccer cone:
Wall damping material:
Btw, searching through the thread I see a great set built by Bschook
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor.273524/post-6792562
Wait until mid year or so. Chris has some and we'll do some measurements on them as I have a couple of ideas for their use, initially, for me at least, some Atmos speakers.
I've seen it used in a 'FAST' with the Vifa TC9 but don't have any details other than the builder was happy with the sound - on stereonet.au. They're now available with a round frame to make mounting a bit easier.
Geoff
I hadn't seen that, but I'll have a look. We have a ton of stuff to order from WES.
Edit, just did, nice.
AHA!! I now see what you mean with the reference to soccer cone.
Sorry another quick question. It appears you (and others) prefer lining the TL with acoustic faom, as opposed to stuffing with, say hollowfill, or even the old traditional long strand sheep's wool. Is there a reson for this?
Can lining the walls as opposed to stuffing the void be modelled in the various software available?
I'll definitely have to do a lot more searching in the 3500 posts in your dedicated 10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST thread.😵
There is lining with foam and stuffing. The stuffing with poly fill is in the closed end up to the top 180deg turn. Adjust the stuffing density to taste. If you have an impedance measurement system (DATS etc) then adjust stuffing to make the max impedance peaks drop to below about 25ohms and the minimum between the peaks to be above 10ohms. But the best thing is your ears and in your room how you like the sound. About 250g of polyfill is a typical amount per speaker.
Thnks X.
I found the post by as8912 (#2971 in your 10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST thread). His photos and posts, and your responses explained everything. Also showed his way of building the 10F enclosure.
So finally you went for them! Good. Building a TL or sealed version?
Haven't pulled the trigger yet (checking availability of parts in Australia), but looking at the TL.
I use REW a lot, and it now allows you to do impedance testing, which will help with the tuning, and also means I don't need a DAT.