Just saw your post, its a correct match for DC28F cut out. Will have to figure out what changes will be needed for RS180-8 Woofer
They are close but not exact. Here is a photo of the DC28F (left) and RST28A (same as RST28F physically). The cutout for the Faston tabs is diametrically opposed vs being on same side. Also, the cutout diameter for DC28F needs to be 74mm vs 72mm for the RST28x. The bezel diameter on RST28x is 104mm vs 110mm on DC28F.
So, if you cut a notch for the Faston tab and add a filler ring (assuming it’s already rebated) it can work. If you are only surface mounting then the bezel diameter doesn’t matter.
The passive XO I designed for the RST28F and DC130A-8 is special. It’s sounds really good and balanced and is not compatible with RS180 (which might be pricier than DC130A but I don’t think sounds better).
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If you are using factory provided FRD files, you will need to account for baffle step loss. The RS180P will be about -6dB lower than the FRD which is based on a large IEC standard baffle. So the overall sensitivity will be closer to 84dB. This means you will need to adjust R1 and R2 to give an additional 6dB of attenuation in order to have balanced sound. Probably change R1 and R2 to 6.8 and 6.8ohms. Adjust to taste. Also, this TL was designed for DC130A-8. It may not work well for RS180.
If you use DC130A, I would recommend the XO used on the Rockville. An inverted Harsch quasi transient perfect with XO at 5.5kHz. It’s tested and verified to sound superb.
If you use DC130A, I would recommend the XO used on the Rockville. An inverted Harsch quasi transient perfect with XO at 5.5kHz. It’s tested and verified to sound superb.
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Hi XRK
Just to rewind. I have made the TL's with RS180-8 and DC28F-8 based on your inputs
Original measurement multiply by 1.4
And it looks like this
And my crossover is like this
Though it sounds good I felt the top end is not that resolving and after going through your thread, seeing the measurements and hearing those clips, immediately I felt that I should upgrade the tweeter. RS180-8 is a good driver but I see some bumps around 1.8KHZ region so planning to redo the crossover from scratch with RST28F-4
Just to rewind. I have made the TL's with RS180-8 and DC28F-8 based on your inputs
Original measurement multiply by 1.4
And it looks like this
And my crossover is like this
Though it sounds good I felt the top end is not that resolving and after going through your thread, seeing the measurements and hearing those clips, immediately I felt that I should upgrade the tweeter. RS180-8 is a good driver but I see some bumps around 1.8KHZ region so planning to redo the crossover from scratch with RST28F-4
Ahh, I forgot all about that - thank you for reminding me. The TL should be fine then - but I still think you will need more padding on the tweeter - but that is preference and where your speakers are used. If near a back wall, you will get some nice bass enhancement.
Nice build btw.
Cheers,
X
Nice build btw.
Cheers,
X
I dont keep the speakers close to walls, I am keeping them has 1/3 inside room. This is giving me good bass with overall satisfaction. Somehow I feel the tweeter lacks a bit.
Taking your suggestions forward, I have padded the tweeter also added the BSC which you suggested initially
Taking your suggestions forward, I have padded the tweeter also added the BSC which you suggested initially
The response looks good - but there is a potential issue with the impedance dropping to 3ohms at 2kHz. I am not sure what is causing that as there are 6.8ohm resistors in all paths to the tweeter.
I have made some tweaks and now the graph etc is looking good, have got the RST28F-4 installed however I feel its bit metallic sound with some ringing effect. Any idea why it so @xrk971?
The RST28F is a fine driver. Not metallic at all. It may be your tonal balance is level flat. Aim for a right tilt such that 15kHz is -5dB less than 100Hz.
Or you may be crossing too low and hitting distortion. 10uF is a big cap. Try 4.7uF and move crossover higher.
Or you may be crossing too low and hitting distortion. 10uF is a big cap. Try 4.7uF and move crossover higher.
Thanks
so if I use .75" then the total width will be 7.5 and all internal dimensions i can keep as his in diagram but the depth and height increase according to mdf size right?
It looks like aluminum cone since the XO diagram says RS180-8.
That’s an awesome driver - I use it in this speaker:
This would not be a bad speaker to make into a TL.
That’s an awesome driver - I use it in this speaker:
This would not be a bad speaker to make into a TL.
Hello from Australia
This looks a very interesting project: I have some spare DC130BS-4s and DC28s left over from building Curt Campbell's excellent Tritrix speakers. I could build the Tritrix TMs but would like to try something different.
This would be a monitor type build for a jazz pianist friend, so the reduced output of the TL with these drivers (compared with the TM) should not be an issue.
They are of course different drivers, but I can't get any idea on how different they sound; however, the key specs look very similar. Fs is 52/53 Hz, SD 92/93sq cm, VAS 12/13 litres, Qts 0.35/0.41. The Tritrix sound great for the $.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DC130A-8-5-1-4-Classic-Woofer-Speaker-295-303
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DC130BS-4-5-1-4-Classic-Shielded-Woofer-4-Ohm-295-302
Could the BS-4s work in your cabinet, please?
Any ideas much appreciated, thank you
Geoff
This looks a very interesting project: I have some spare DC130BS-4s and DC28s left over from building Curt Campbell's excellent Tritrix speakers. I could build the Tritrix TMs but would like to try something different.
This would be a monitor type build for a jazz pianist friend, so the reduced output of the TL with these drivers (compared with the TM) should not be an issue.
They are of course different drivers, but I can't get any idea on how different they sound; however, the key specs look very similar. Fs is 52/53 Hz, SD 92/93sq cm, VAS 12/13 litres, Qts 0.35/0.41. The Tritrix sound great for the $.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DC130A-8-5-1-4-Classic-Woofer-Speaker-295-303
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DC130BS-4-5-1-4-Classic-Shielded-Woofer-4-Ohm-295-302
Could the BS-4s work in your cabinet, please?
Any ideas much appreciated, thank you
Geoff
That’s a 4ohm driver and would require a crossover redesign if you want to use a passive crossover. But will work fine for active speaker with DSP.
The driver impedance whether 4 ohms or 8 ohms makes a huge difference. One can’t simply drop in the replacement. It has to be measured and the crossover redone. To first order, drop the inductor by factor of two to 2.5mH but the rest is all really and guess.
The driver impedance whether 4 ohms or 8 ohms makes a huge difference. One can’t simply drop in the replacement. It has to be measured and the crossover redone. To first order, drop the inductor by factor of two to 2.5mH but the rest is all really and guess.
Thank you, xrk for such a quick answer!
The crossover has to change, of course, that's understood. I have almost all of the parts, but no measuring equipment. I thought I'd treat the 4 ohm project as an MTM with the 8 ohm driver, halve the woofer inductor as you suggested, double the first woofer cap, adjust the padding on the tweeter and see how that sims. Then lots of listening....
The Tritrix MTM has a TL cabinet, but as it has two of the DC130s, it's not really adaptable to a single woofer, hence my interest in your design.
Thanks again
Geoff
The crossover has to change, of course, that's understood. I have almost all of the parts, but no measuring equipment. I thought I'd treat the 4 ohm project as an MTM with the 8 ohm driver, halve the woofer inductor as you suggested, double the first woofer cap, adjust the padding on the tweeter and see how that sims. Then lots of listening....
The Tritrix MTM has a TL cabinet, but as it has two of the DC130s, it's not really adaptable to a single woofer, hence my interest in your design.
Thanks again
Geoff
So are you going to use two 4 ohm drivers as MTM TL in series to get 8ohms? If so, then the crossover is the same as for an 8ohm single driver I think. The phase alignment won't be exactly good though but it will probably be passable.