I "recently" purchased a pair of Tangband W2-2243S drivers on black Friday because I had a couple of drinks and they were very cheap.
(newer version of the W2-800SL)
I had thought of using them as a midrange in my MTM towers with dual 6.5" mids and a 1" tweet that could only be crossed at 2,2-3kHz.
But later I realized they don't take much power, and don't reasonably play well under 500Hz. They do have good sensitivity, but not as good as two 91dB/W mids in parallell.
So now. What should I do with them? I could e.g. have use for some small speakers under my triple monitor setup.
But I'd still need some kind of woofers for them that play down to at least 100Hz.
I got them for really cheap, so the woofers should also be free or close to 10€ each.
I have some old sony bookshelf speakers with a 5.25" mid, cone tweeter and piezo.
I also have some Bass Face PAW10, 10" PA mids with a sensitivity of 95-98dB.
Then lastly a pair of ancient Philips speakers with an 8" mid and 8" passive radiator.
From these, the Sony seems like the best bet because they are small, but I'd have to rip up a perfectly good pair of speakers.
I'd also have to fix my TSP measuring system that stopped working with REW some time ago.
But, if I'd get some kind of mid, what kind of enclosure should I make for the 2" fullrangers then?
A tiny t-line could get a flat response down to 300Hz, with a 1st order HPF at 450-500Hz and 1mm Xmax reached with 20W.
I also heard some people used them in a front loaded horn, although couldn't find it. With a horn they might even work with my original plan in making a 3-way MTM (WMTW)
Then some say they work best in a vented enclosure, but I only get a very peaky response with a port, so sealed would be better.
Can I get some Ideas here? I'm open to do anything fun with these drivers really. I have plenty of 9mm plywood which should suite these.
(newer version of the W2-800SL)
I had thought of using them as a midrange in my MTM towers with dual 6.5" mids and a 1" tweet that could only be crossed at 2,2-3kHz.
But later I realized they don't take much power, and don't reasonably play well under 500Hz. They do have good sensitivity, but not as good as two 91dB/W mids in parallell.
So now. What should I do with them? I could e.g. have use for some small speakers under my triple monitor setup.
But I'd still need some kind of woofers for them that play down to at least 100Hz.
I got them for really cheap, so the woofers should also be free or close to 10€ each.
I have some old sony bookshelf speakers with a 5.25" mid, cone tweeter and piezo.
I also have some Bass Face PAW10, 10" PA mids with a sensitivity of 95-98dB.
Then lastly a pair of ancient Philips speakers with an 8" mid and 8" passive radiator.
From these, the Sony seems like the best bet because they are small, but I'd have to rip up a perfectly good pair of speakers.
I'd also have to fix my TSP measuring system that stopped working with REW some time ago.
But, if I'd get some kind of mid, what kind of enclosure should I make for the 2" fullrangers then?
A tiny t-line could get a flat response down to 300Hz, with a 1st order HPF at 450-500Hz and 1mm Xmax reached with 20W.
I also heard some people used them in a front loaded horn, although couldn't find it. With a horn they might even work with my original plan in making a 3-way MTM (WMTW)
Then some say they work best in a vented enclosure, but I only get a very peaky response with a port, so sealed would be better.
Can I get some Ideas here? I'm open to do anything fun with these drivers really. I have plenty of 9mm plywood which should suite these.
convert your sony speakers into a near-field 3-way with it, crossing over at the baffle step freq. to improve power handling.. You could initially make a little box for the TG to sit on top, & disconnect the internal sony xover, to see whether a tweeter is required
Ok so I just ripped open the plastic front of a sony ss-h801v speaker. The cone tweeter is exactly the same size as the w2.😳
I presume you didn't mean to use the piezo tweeter from the sony? In that case it would be dumb to use both the cone tweeter and the w2 as the w2 plays very well up high, and I hardly think a cone tweeter from probably the 90s can outperform it.
Oh and, the w2 even fits the same screw holes....
The front baffle has a little horn loading for the cone tweeter. Only thing now is there is no enclosure for the w2, if It managed to fit under the plastic baffle. But there is a recessed area that just might be a good size for a sealed section, by just putting a thin front baffle on that, underneath the real front baffle. Or would the leaky IB setting be bad for it either?
If I'm looking at this sony the right way, the woofer and tweeter and piezo are all just wired in parallel and only the piezo has a 1,5uF cap on it.🤔
So might the original cone tweeter be running full-range with the natural roll-ofs as a crossover?
make some tiny satellite speakers like these:
Alderwood speakers
https://www.alderwoodspeakers.com.au/collections/eros-pro-options-and-accessory-kits
https://www.alderwoodspeakers.com.a...-options-and-accessory-kits/products/eros-pro
--
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-114db-max-from-a-pair-of-2in-drivers.378995/
Alderwood speakers
https://www.alderwoodspeakers.com.au/collections/eros-pro-options-and-accessory-kits
https://www.alderwoodspeakers.com.a...-options-and-accessory-kits/products/eros-pro
--
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-114db-max-from-a-pair-of-2in-drivers.378995/
Im no longer using old Logitech surround pc speakers, and intense to wire their drivers to 32ish ohm. Plug into headphone out in my phone and listen if Sound comes out. Maybe add passive drivers and ser ud more bass comes out.
Cheers!
Cheers!
Seems reasonable as its upper mass corner is ~2x160/0.32 = 1 kHz, so a 160-1 kHz conical WG with a ~400 Hz XO will in theory perform well.
Shouldn't in theory based on 20*Vas*Qts^3.3 = 0.0865 L tuned to 0.42*Fs*Qts^-0.96 = ~213.47 Hz, i.e. quite well damped in effect.
I mean that frequency plot for those satellites seems awfully similar to the response of this W2.
Only thing is these don't take 50W, nor have enough excursion to play below 200hz in any manner other than with under 1W power.
These would be cool, but a little too simple, and not enough Hi-Fi for me right now.
I'd be interested in what size and shape horn would be best? Couldn't find a good looking fr in hornresp with the wizard.
If you mean it'd perform well with 0,1 tuned to 213Hz, here is that:
And here it is with 320Hz 2nd order HPF, needed for 20W power handling:
If we however increase it to 0,3l, we get this, with about the same excursion and alot smaller port and port resonances:
These drivers couldn't really be used for that as they would come out to 8Ohms only, and a phone could possibly not put out enough power to make much sound other than to be used as headphones.
160 Hz two flare conical like used for DSL Synergy concept.
OK, so where is this 'peaky' tuned response you claimed for vented? Or is it what you get for your under damped 0.3 L cab before DSP correction?
OK, so where is this 'peaky' tuned response you claimed for vented? Or is it what you get for your under damped 0.3 L cab before DSP correction?
Here is a rough measurement with a Umik-1 of the sony speaker taken from about 1cm from the baffle in front of each driver
Woofer:
Tweeter:
And the W2 in the tweeter place:
Here are all three:
I couldn't get the plastic baffle to touch the W2. There was about 1-2mm of space left around it.
The woofer looks rather good from 50-600Hz (seems to be ported around 55Hz)
Someone tell me how that tweeter playing from 2khz upwards can take all the power without a filter? These speakers are rated for an optimistic 150W peak
The W2 doesn't really look good in that baffle, but maybe if I can get them to touch, it could take out some dips?
But it looks like the waveguide is loading down to 1,5khz minimum, so I can't get the w2 to play any lower either with a flat fr.
But the w2 sensitivity could be a good match to the sony woofer without it.
Woofer:
Tweeter:
And the W2 in the tweeter place:
Here are all three:
I couldn't get the plastic baffle to touch the W2. There was about 1-2mm of space left around it.
The woofer looks rather good from 50-600Hz (seems to be ported around 55Hz)
Someone tell me how that tweeter playing from 2khz upwards can take all the power without a filter? These speakers are rated for an optimistic 150W peak
The W2 doesn't really look good in that baffle, but maybe if I can get them to touch, it could take out some dips?
But it looks like the waveguide is loading down to 1,5khz minimum, so I can't get the w2 to play any lower either with a flat fr.
But the w2 sensitivity could be a good match to the sony woofer without it.
Could you give me some sizes to put into hornresp and model it?
Something so I could see a simulation.
Yeah I didn't really think of only having 1dl and tuning to 213Hz at first.
The 3dl cab is a bit peaky, but it looks more flat with a high frequency 1st order filter, if steep crossover curves are wanted, because it plays almost down to 210hz this way.
Seems like I was wrong about it being very peaky, but like I said, the 1dl cab is rather unpractical because of the need for a port 4x longer than the cab.
What size baffle should I have to get the most out of the W2 with baffle gain?
Ideally it'd go down to 500hz, but that seems like a pretty big baffle, or?
Ideally it'd go down to 500hz, but that seems like a pretty big baffle, or?
Time 'crunch', so not in simming mode for now. Yes, it's all about trade-offs, though would convert the optimal alignment to a (ML) TQWT as you started to do.
500 Hz in (4pi) space would in theory have a ~34400/500 = ~68.8 cm perimeter/21.9 cm dia., but there's a (pipe) end correction = ~0.613r = ~6.71 cm, ergo effective diameter = ~21.9-6.71 = ~15.188 cm/47.714 cm perimeter.
But set it perpendicular on a rigid/massive surface (2pi) and it need only be 1/2 (0.707x) its area, etc..
500 Hz in (4pi) space would in theory have a ~34400/500 = ~68.8 cm perimeter/21.9 cm dia., but there's a (pipe) end correction = ~0.613r = ~6.71 cm, ergo effective diameter = ~21.9-6.71 = ~15.188 cm/47.714 cm perimeter.
But set it perpendicular on a rigid/massive surface (2pi) and it need only be 1/2 (0.707x) its area, etc..
Okay, so if I understood that, I only need a baffle with the perimeter of 47.7cm*0.707, which is about 33,7cm.
So if it was a square baffle (which it won't be), it'd be about 8.4cm per side?
And If I build a box for it with the Sony 5", the baffle will be larger than that so I shouldn't worry?