Capacitor Question

I’m rebuilding an amp for myself that had all power supply fets blown almost half the outputs ,drivers , and gate resistors .

My question is they are using Sam young caps in this amp for the rail caps and filter caps .

I know it’s been discussed a lot . Loke why do people replace caps for no reason .

My question is should I replace these Sam young caps in this amp to a better quality cap?

Just wondering if the amp will be more reliable or any benefit to replacing these Chinese caps with better quality?
 
The Samyoung caps should be Korean. Depending on the vintage they can be decent, but not typically up to the quality of say Nichicon, Rubycon, or Cornell Dubilier.

What amp and how old is it? I only generally do a wholesale recap of electrolytics on something that is at least 25 years old, and I plan to keep is for the foreseeable future. That or the capacitors are known to fail, or are already leaking. I also generally randomly test some of the capacitors I remove, and I would say 98% of what I test meet the rating on the can. I have had some 4700uf 80v Nichicon rail caps out of an old Fosgate read 3300-3500uf once. That was an outlier.
 
The Samyoung caps are the only ones that I've seen open with no signs of any damage. This was within just a few years of use in amps that, in some cases, had no other problems.

I agree that you need to remove/replace any caps that are known to leak.

Post #2 mentioned old Rockford rail caps. In many of the early punch 45//75/150, I've never seen one that was out of tolerance. There were others in the amps that failed after a few years or from abuse.

I'm likely the only one who thinks this way but I can't understand recapping amps that will go into storage. If the concern is that they will leak, remove the electrolytic caps. If you believe that the caps 'need' to be replaced due to age, why would you replace caps that will simply sit around and age.

Another thing to think about is the fact that there are sometimes bad runs of caps (many millions failed in TVs and computer monitors, for no reason). What if you're replacing perfectly good gaps with caps that have some problem like those did.
Capacitor plague - Wikipedia

For snap-in caps, CD were my choice. The others listed above were good as well.

For primary filter caps, you typically want 105C caps with very low ESR. If the space is available, simply going up in voltage rating will give you lower ESR. These are even more important in amps with regulated power supplies with no primary filter inductors but are a bonus in all amps.
 
Post #2 mentioned old Rockford rail caps. In many of the early punch 45//75/150, I've never seen one that was out of tolerance. There were others in the amps that failed after a few years or from abuse.

I'm likely the only one who thinks this way but I can't understand recapping amps that will go into storage. If the concern is that they will leak, remove the electrolytic caps. If you believe that the caps 'need' to be replaced due to age, why would you replace caps that will simply sit around and age.
Let's just say I have a problem collecting stuff that I will have a use for "some day". As I get older it seems those days get farther and farther out, so it has become a work in progress to control that.

The caps shown here are the power supply input caps from the Punch 160x4 currently on my bench. I just bought it with a dead channel because it had end caps I needed for another project. It was a simple fix, so I'm going through it for fun. 330uF 35v rated, and all three test right at 349uF. All three are leaking electrolyte. 1995 year of production. The 2200uF 25v rail caps tested between 2080 and 2130uF with no leakage.

IMG-2306.jpg


IMG-2307.jpg
 
That looks like flux, not electrolyte. When electrolyte leaks, there is generally corrosion on the leads.
I wish it was. The pads were slightly corroded under the caps, and when I applied heat to the area with my hot air station the smell was definitely electrolyte. The board does have alot of flux residue left behind from washdown after manufacturing, but it is all dry. The rail caps were extracted similarly and the flux under them was powdery.
 
I have another question regarding caps in this amp .

i noticed 2 of the disk caps had broken leads at the body of them .
Wondering can I replace these disk caps with film caps ?
Wondering this since I have the correct value in film caps but not disk caps