You could get these using the cinema coverage tricks mentioned at the first link in post #14.
Accurate imaging of bass can be had by using a baffle wall, as specified by THX (also at above-mentioned link).
Some affordable JBL Selenium drivers (including compression drivers like D305 and D405) are available on the following website:
https://digitrons.co.in/brand/harman/jbl/
Also look out for some non-JBL parts such as the BMS4592-8 coaxial compression driver, that would give you not only small size, but also an inherently time-aligned midrange and treble sections, needing only a single horn.
https://gmaudio.co.in/proaudio/?categoyva=neodymium-compression-drivers
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Frankly, I think you have been deluded into brand names and numbers...
Crown, Peavey and Yamaha are not average, they are usually a problem to repair, odd designs.
JBL also, at that price, too much.
I live in a place where I have neighbors, and my office is isolated.
Office at factory is 15 x 12 feet, 12 feet high, so 2160 cubic feet.
Once, just to check, I turned my Kenwood KA-36 all the way up, playing a devotional song...I had to leave the room, and go to the main road, 30 meters or 100 feet away, it was so loud.
That set has STK 4141-II as the main amp, 20 W/ch/8R, my speakers are 6R, so a little more power maybe.
So unless you are deaf, or live in the jungle, or have a very isolated room, 100 watts total is too much.
Long time back, a policeman said that thieves always bought Rolex and Nikon with stolen credit cards, "must be the advertising", he said.
You want to say 'I have such and such system', fine, but mostly a waste of money.
It's your money...Enjoy...
Crown, Peavey and Yamaha are not average, they are usually a problem to repair, odd designs.
JBL also, at that price, too much.
I live in a place where I have neighbors, and my office is isolated.
Office at factory is 15 x 12 feet, 12 feet high, so 2160 cubic feet.
Once, just to check, I turned my Kenwood KA-36 all the way up, playing a devotional song...I had to leave the room, and go to the main road, 30 meters or 100 feet away, it was so loud.
That set has STK 4141-II as the main amp, 20 W/ch/8R, my speakers are 6R, so a little more power maybe.
So unless you are deaf, or live in the jungle, or have a very isolated room, 100 watts total is too much.
Long time back, a policeman said that thieves always bought Rolex and Nikon with stolen credit cards, "must be the advertising", he said.
You want to say 'I have such and such system', fine, but mostly a waste of money.
It's your money...Enjoy...
I'm sure this thread will hit several hundred replies soon, like every thread at DIYaudio 😉
Geoff Miller gave you the answer in post #2.
Geoff Miller gave you the answer in post #2.
Some high end audio shops in large cities can arrange an evaluation of your listening area.
Be aware they work on commission at times, and will try to sell an expensive setup.
Be aware they work on commission at times, and will try to sell an expensive setup.
Yeah man was looking at JBL Compression driver + SB Acoustic 90x90 Horn or Dayton Audio 75 Conical Horn for HF Driver.
2000W is for SUB. And you guys miss the point that less power is enough to drive Tweeter or even Midrange but Woofer and Subwoofer gonna need decent power output. They are the ones that put most work in pressurizing and creating punchy experience. To do that they do need a lot of Power. So don't know why you guys are saying that 100W gonna be overkill for Tweeter+Midrange+Woofer and 2000W be overkill for SUB. Specially considering the SUB to be built to go below 10Hz and it really needs that power to push air below 20Hz range. And Speakers with Woffers pushing down to 60Hz need to be pushed decently. It varies from driver to driver but still I guess pushing low with enough punch needs Power.
Do correct me if I am wrong.
Do correct me if I am wrong.
Well, let's say it like this, my ex her music room (in her house) is 16x10x5m and she uses 2 18" Dayton Um18 based sealed subs tuned to 23Hz each powered by a Hyex nCore 400 (400w class D) mono amp. Her top set are Tannoy Arden (the original driver and crossover in rebuild cabs) powered by Prima Luna Dialogue HP tube amps in triode mono modus (85w per channel) and that is more than enough for that space. We gave parties there with that setup (where i was the dj) and even then we did not run out of power...
DIYers cannot buy the parts for the price of mass produced aggressively priced consumer goods like the JBL speakers you cite. Add in other costs like tools and measurement gear and it becomes a "no brainer".
DIY is not a route to lowering the cost of low cost commercial speakers. It can lower the cost of large expensive commercial speakers but only if designed and built to the standards of large expensive commercial speakers. As a beginner the chances of you being able to do this are remote. You could follow the plans of a published DIY design but then you would have to work out which ones are good, which OK and which poor. You will get a wide range of suggestions from a forum like this which is unlikely to help much. You would need to obtain advice from the genuinely knowledgeable which can be pretty tricky in the audiophile world which is awash with pixie dust.
Yes sir. That is what I was debating. See Music and stuff don't go that low or lets say don't have much going down to 10Hz which is where I am looking at with the SUB. Lets say You get a Movie on. I would like to ask if the SUBs really hit below 20Hz with that did they even go past 15Hz let alone 10Hz. Because that is where it matters not for the ears but for the feel. I will be crossing it at 60Hz or even Lower and expecting the Ported Box to be able to handle frequencies down to 10Hz. So I am again bringing the point up. Will I be able to get the drivers hit that low without going at-least 1000W.
The point is that at-least here in India we are being charged huge Premium over Speakers for what it actually cost to build it. In comparison even though the price on Drivers we are able to obtain is not as aggressive as what direct brands get it is faaaaaaaaaaaaaar better than the premium we are being charged for full speakers. The JBL Studio speaker set which would actually cost you guys $1800-1900 is costing me $4000 so you get the idea that is me importing it after the Discount price on sale in US. If I had to directly purchase it that gonna cost me $7000 as that is what local dealer quoted me for it. The SVS Speakers cost in same range(or even bit more).
Compared to that we are getting decent quality + performance drivers for a very reasonable price.
Meet dealers, there is a lot of stuff available from foreigners moving out of Delhi and also a lot of equipment being sold in Gurgaon.
Read the classifieds in HT on Sundays.
You might find some stuff at a good price.
Also, Gurgaon and Saket are having some high end shops, apart from CP and GK areas.
Read the classifieds in HT on Sundays.
You might find some stuff at a good price.
Also, Gurgaon and Saket are having some high end shops, apart from CP and GK areas.
https://www.olx.in/en-in/item/complete-sony-audio-rack-system-w-stand-vintage-iid-1668260901
Sony rack system, $300 asking...
Sony rack system, $300 asking...
Only be Purchasing New Speakers. Have heard many systems over years. From Low end to Ultra High end. I know what to expect from speaker in terms of sound. What I am asking is for the given budget the best I can source in from Production speakers is the JBL Studio series. Knowing that there is literally nothing better than it in that given budget range(that is for a New unused set). So was just wondering that for that budget can I get a better sounding speakers taking the DIY route as I definitely know that I can easily source in Decent drivers I bet far better drivers than what the JBL Studio series packs for that budget and still be left with enough for other stuff. That is why I was wondering if I should DIY or not.