Hello, Everyone!
I need your help to diagnose my Marantz CD60. I just recently bought it in a working condition. I heard that the Philips axial CAPs are notoriously unreliable, especially after 20 years, So I decided to change them. In order to order the right capacitors from a webshop, I needed to completely disassemble the player, by removing the main PCB as I suspected I will find some hidden capacitors under the CD mechanism. Once I got my list of capacitors to be swapped, I pulled back the thing together (as it was working before and I needed to order the parts anyway, which takes time). Well, something went wrong as the player no longer plays. I have no idea what is happened. I was very careful. The symptom is that the laser is emitting red light it also tries focusing and moving, but it doesn't read the disc. The disc is slowly rotating counter clockwise a bit and that's it. I created two videos about the problem...
CDM-4 video 1
CDM-4 Video 2
Is that possible that I either ruined the laser and/or the flex cable during the process? Or should it be a cold solder joint which was finally broken as I moved/"flexed" the main PCB?
Thank you in advance,
B.
I need your help to diagnose my Marantz CD60. I just recently bought it in a working condition. I heard that the Philips axial CAPs are notoriously unreliable, especially after 20 years, So I decided to change them. In order to order the right capacitors from a webshop, I needed to completely disassemble the player, by removing the main PCB as I suspected I will find some hidden capacitors under the CD mechanism. Once I got my list of capacitors to be swapped, I pulled back the thing together (as it was working before and I needed to order the parts anyway, which takes time). Well, something went wrong as the player no longer plays. I have no idea what is happened. I was very careful. The symptom is that the laser is emitting red light it also tries focusing and moving, but it doesn't read the disc. The disc is slowly rotating counter clockwise a bit and that's it. I created two videos about the problem...
CDM-4 video 1
CDM-4 Video 2
Is that possible that I either ruined the laser and/or the flex cable during the process? Or should it be a cold solder joint which was finally broken as I moved/"flexed" the main PCB?
Thank you in advance,
B.
I'm afraid at this point 'it could be anything' because the problem is man made rather than a normal failure mode. Unfortunately we see this so often on the forum where a recap goes wrong and a previously working item now does not. A cap may have been fitted incorrectly, there could be an almost invisible strand of solder shorting two adjacent runs of print where you have soldered or a blob of solder may have fallen unnoticed onto the board.
You will have to begin with the basics and that means checking all power supplies are correct and reaching their destinations. The disc rotating backwards and slowly could mean a clock signal is missing or corrupt and that would require tracing with an oscilloscope.
In the first instance check carefully all your work and look for solder bridges and splashes. Philips (Marantz) players often use many 'safety' resistors which are low value resistors designed to fuse open circuit silently if there is a short. That would show in a check of the rails at all the destination points.
You will have to begin with the basics and that means checking all power supplies are correct and reaching their destinations. The disc rotating backwards and slowly could mean a clock signal is missing or corrupt and that would require tracing with an oscilloscope.
In the first instance check carefully all your work and look for solder bridges and splashes. Philips (Marantz) players often use many 'safety' resistors which are low value resistors designed to fuse open circuit silently if there is a short. That would show in a check of the rails at all the destination points.
I am sorry. I am not native English speaker, so maybe that's why you misunderstand me. The point is that I haven't touched any capacitors so far, I just disassembled the unit to have a precise list of capacitors I will swap out, and then I put it back together (as it was). I haven't touched anything. Yes I needed to disconnect the flex cable of the laser which always a risk. Unfortunately I have no proper oscilloscope yet, but I can check the voltages with a multimeter. Thank you for the tips.
No problem 🙂 and my apologies for not reading it carefully enough.
So the same principles apply to fault-finding with regard to measuring voltages and so on but it would also be worth looking at any plugs/sockets that use solid core cable as those can be fragile (certainly on Philips players) and the wire can fracture easily if it has been bent a few times.
You will have to retrace all your steps and look if anything is amiss. Could there be any plug/sockets that could have been mixed up?
Ribbon cables are surprisingly tough if handled correctly but can suffer with 'tears' at the outer parts if not inserted and removed cleanly and 'square on' to the socket.
So the same principles apply to fault-finding with regard to measuring voltages and so on but it would also be worth looking at any plugs/sockets that use solid core cable as those can be fragile (certainly on Philips players) and the wire can fracture easily if it has been bent a few times.
You will have to retrace all your steps and look if anything is amiss. Could there be any plug/sockets that could have been mixed up?
Ribbon cables are surprisingly tough if handled correctly but can suffer with 'tears' at the outer parts if not inserted and removed cleanly and 'square on' to the socket.
Check the main clock signal - 11,2896MHz. Does it reach all necessary chips? Resolder crystal pads.
Thank you for the tip. I already brought the item to one of my fellow technician. He has a proper oscilloscope for further investigation. I will let him know your advice.