Hi and thanks for a great forum!
Im going to build a pair of open baffle speakers after many years of testing. I have tried alot of different speakers and constructions but still after all my testing im not sure what "U-baffle" construction of these two is to prefere..🙄
What do you guys generally think and why?
2x9,5", 2x8" + 1x tweeter playing from ~50-70hz and up. (separate subs is going to be used).
Best regards Teoodor
Picture:
Open baffle - ImgShare.io
Im going to build a pair of open baffle speakers after many years of testing. I have tried alot of different speakers and constructions but still after all my testing im not sure what "U-baffle" construction of these two is to prefere..🙄
What do you guys generally think and why?
2x9,5", 2x8" + 1x tweeter playing from ~50-70hz and up. (separate subs is going to be used).
Best regards Teoodor
Picture:
Open baffle - ImgShare.io
Last edited:
..will this be Active w/DSP or will it be Active or just Passive?
IF it's a particularly steep slope for your crossover freq.s then either of your pic.s should be OK, if not then the 2nd is generally preferable with respect of vertical off-axis depending on the crossover freq. for the midrange high-pass and midbass low-pass (..the lower it is the fewer problems with respect to vertical off-axis.)
This tool when set for open baffle and NOT eq./corrected can give you an idea of baffle size vs. pressure loss:
Tolvan Data
IF it's a particularly steep slope for your crossover freq.s then either of your pic.s should be OK, if not then the 2nd is generally preferable with respect of vertical off-axis depending on the crossover freq. for the midrange high-pass and midbass low-pass (..the lower it is the fewer problems with respect to vertical off-axis.)
This tool when set for open baffle and NOT eq./corrected can give you an idea of baffle size vs. pressure loss:
Tolvan Data
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Neither. 😉
Though strictly speaking, it depends on the size of the baffle.
What size baffle do you want? (..most particularly the width of the baffle.)
Also, will this be Active w/DSP or will it be Active or just Passive?
Hehe😀
~270mm wide with around 300mm "wings" on each side where the bass speakers are. A little like Danny /GR research design.
But feel free to give me better advice.🙂
All is driven by a few Hypex FA amps.
They seem to be very narrow, 30 cm? 9.5"? Most builds are around 60 cm and use 15" drivers. It's not only a matter of corner frequency, it is the reality, size, impression and impact as well.
Anyway, probably you have thought about it after years of testing 🙂
I can't answer your question but I think it depends on the room. If the are pĺaced near the corners may the large tower is better because the distribution of the lower frequencies is more even.
My own OB:s use 2x15" each, one above the other, 0.9 m from rear wall, 0.4 from side. Tiny room resonance at 80 Hz or so.
Anyway, probably you have thought about it after years of testing 🙂
I can't answer your question but I think it depends on the room. If the are pĺaced near the corners may the large tower is better because the distribution of the lower frequencies is more even.
My own OB:s use 2x15" each, one above the other, 0.9 m from rear wall, 0.4 from side. Tiny room resonance at 80 Hz or so.
..will this be Active w/DSP or will it be Active or just Passive?
This tool when set for open baffle and NOT eq./corrected can give you an idea of baffle size vs. pressure loss:
Tolvan Data
I was more thinking what the pros and cons are for two woofers in the bottom vs. one over and one under the mids.
9,5" are only 242mm wide. So my plan was to build it narrow but with big "wings".They seem to be very narrow, 30 cm? 9.5"? Most builds are around 60 cm and use 15" drivers. It's not only a matter of corner frequency, it is the reality, size, impression and impact as well.
Anyway, probably you have thought about it after years of testing 🙂
I can't answer your question but I think it depends on the room. If the are pĺaced near the corners may the large tower is better because the distribution of the lower frequencies is more even.
My own OB:s use 2x15" each, one above the other, 0.9 m from rear wall, 0.4 from side. Tiny room resonance at 80 Hz or so.
I can place them up to 150cm from the wall.
I Have 2x18" AE dipole on each side. They can play nice up to mids but I like to try this setup.
Thanks!..will this be Active w/DSP or will it be Active or just Passive?
IF it's a particularly steep slope for your crossover freq.s then either of your pic.s should be OK, if not then the 2nd is generally preferable with respect of vertical off-axis depending on the crossover freq. for the midrange high-pass and midbass low-pass (..the lower it is the fewer problems with respect to vertical off-axis.)
This tool when set for open baffle and NOT eq./corrected can give you an idea of baffle size vs. pressure loss:
Tolvan Data
I would like the bass(midbass) to play up to 200-250hz and the mids upp to ~2000hz.
U-frame had one problem, on first dipole peak frequency U-frame is nearly omnidirectional, no dipole radiation.
Make it as 4-way active, 4-way had less compromises, less DSP correction is needed.
Make it as 4-way active, 4-way had less compromises, less DSP correction is needed.
U-frame had one problem, on first dipole peak frequency U-frame is nearly omnidirectional, no dipole radiation.
Make it as 4-way active, 4-way had less compromises, less DSP correction is needed.
Its going to be a 3-way speaker with big dipole subs standing on the side. so Im building 4-way active 🙂
Hehe😀
~270mm wide with around 300mm "wings" on each side where the bass speakers are. A little like Danny /GR research design.
But feel free to give me better advice.🙂
All is driven by a few Hypex FA amps.
😀
Actually my "neither" statement was based on your description without seeing your pictures. 😱 (..it's why I edited my comment after seeing your pictures.)
If you are doing it with a good *DSP implementation then I don't think either is "wrong": at that point it's more a matter of aesthetic choice (assuming you do very steep filtration between the drivers).
*I'm assuming a "few" means an active implementation (..where each driver has its own amplification channel.) DSP of course makes the entire design challenge far less challenging.
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OK🙂😀
Actually my "neither" statement was based on your description without seeing your pictures. 😱 (..it's why I edited my comment after seeing your pictures.)
If you are doing it with a good *DSP implementation then I don't think either is "wrong": at that point it's more a matter of aesthetic choice (assuming you do very steep filtration between the drivers).
*I'm assuming a "few" means an active implementation (..where each driver has its own amplification channel.) DSP of course makes the entire design challenge far less challenging.
Well I think the "WMTMW" design looks better and I might go for that then.
Yes I have 4 Amps with a total of 10 channels.
For the moment its a 3 way setup looking like this:
setup - ImgShare.io
hypex - ImgShare.io
Heh I need to learn how to upload pictures better🙄
..then with that config. look to <250 Hz for the midbass low-pass and something like an elliptical transfer for that added steepness of the crossover. Should work fine if done properly.
Actually I was going to say that it's these decisions such as the baffle shape, etc. which determine how it will turn out.
Whether it will be done properly is a given, and if you choose one crossover method or another then so be it.
Whether it will be done properly is a given, and if you choose one crossover method or another then so be it.
The sketches remind of the Nao speakers:
NaO
or these: Paul Carmody's DIY Speaker Pages - Sunflower [Redux]
Why 2x8"?
I´d personally be tempted to use those AE woofers, like in a ripole that is attached to the baffle so that you have a slot at the bottom.
NaO
or these: Paul Carmody's DIY Speaker Pages - Sunflower [Redux]
Why 2x8"?
I´d personally be tempted to use those AE woofers, like in a ripole that is attached to the baffle so that you have a slot at the bottom.
I've only made one OB so far but I used picture 1, but with such small woofers and minimal baffle I would think that the decision is as much aesthetic as aural, so long as the tweeter is approximately at ear level.
My build wasn't so good but I blame that on the cheap midrange drivers I experimented with as much as my skills with passive XO
My build wasn't so good but I blame that on the cheap midrange drivers I experimented with as much as my skills with passive XO
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