300 ohm to 75 ohm converter. It will have the correct connectors for each impedance.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=300+ohm+...698782&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_2kk8ewh0e4_e
I found something. Seeing that 'vintage' connector reminded me I might have one from the
old days of TV to VCR. I did find a similar connector and hooked that up to the bare ends of a standard FM dipole antenna (might have been from the Radio Shack) down lead made of twin lead.
More pin plugs to buy (like the other unit) before I can test it out.
old days of TV to VCR. I did find a similar connector and hooked that up to the bare ends of a standard FM dipole antenna (might have been from the Radio Shack) down lead made of twin lead.
More pin plugs to buy (like the other unit) before I can test it out.
"I don't need this vintage piece but the push on plug end with the pin center and metal shield around and to standard screw on cable connector that would be at the wall for cable tv."
That sounds like a "Coaxial F Type Connector Male Plug to RF Aerial Male Plug Cable" to me.
That sounds like a "Coaxial F Type Connector Male Plug to RF Aerial Male Plug Cable" to me.
Attachments
Is there a diagram-- breakout picture - of those flip jacks? I noticed in
continuing to get stability that my pin plugs stopped and then started to work
by insertng them full length in the troubling channel-- way up to the hilt then snappling them closed. I just don't know why the innards of those are so flaky.
continuing to get stability that my pin plugs stopped and then started to work
by insertng them full length in the troubling channel-- way up to the hilt then snappling them closed. I just don't know why the innards of those are so flaky.
I think the push on end has to have a pin center rather than the thickish one
shown. Otherwise it's similar to the one I have. Since it is an antenna connect, the " Aerial " description sounds right. Maybe it's just the image that makes the center look like an RCA center pin.
I'm using a uhf/vhf splitter to an inexpensive FM twinlead antenna. And I got a couple more pin connectors to do the speaker hookup soon. The push-on jack on the splitter fits my jack on the RPU100. So it's connected to something now. It's bulky but something to test for audio.
I know this should be simple but it's been hard to describe old style gear.
The latest on this is I moved the unit and lost one channel. There doesn't seem to be a good place to smack this one. But I'm grateful for your pic of the flip switches internal. As mentioned the standard plate is attached _from the back _ which was one of the first things I looked at when I had the case off. I'm not finished with this yet-- may try some small surgery to expose
a side of the switch using a hobby razor saw. I have a rubber mallet as well. ;-)
(note: I did the battery test of the speaker and leads on the problem speaker channel.)
Corrosion is a possibility I suppose but the flip switch assembly is completely enclosed.
I blew some compressed air at the holes again. The straw nozzle is too big to fit inside.
I was thinking about a tip I saw on Youtube for -- I forget what electronic gear DVD maybe --where they stuck a Q-tip or a sticky on the end of something that would fit in the crevass to extract any debris. In this case it would be from strands of twisted wire being broken from being pulled in and out of the flip switches over many years of setups.
Taking this tip I used a bare stranded end of speaker wire and kinked it , then stuck it in the
two jacks that cut out and gave it a few twiddles.
No debris came out but the channel is working again. So there's some obstruction in there. Any ideas appreciated. Maybe there just is no permanent fix without a complete disassembly. I had it apart as far I as a could take it as described earlier but I have to do what I can from the front.
I blew some compressed air at the holes again. The straw nozzle is too big to fit inside.
I was thinking about a tip I saw on Youtube for -- I forget what electronic gear DVD maybe --where they stuck a Q-tip or a sticky on the end of something that would fit in the crevass to extract any debris. In this case it would be from strands of twisted wire being broken from being pulled in and out of the flip switches over many years of setups.
Taking this tip I used a bare stranded end of speaker wire and kinked it , then stuck it in the
two jacks that cut out and gave it a few twiddles.
No debris came out but the channel is working again. So there's some obstruction in there. Any ideas appreciated. Maybe there just is no permanent fix without a complete disassembly. I had it apart as far I as a could take it as described earlier but I have to do what I can from the front.
Last edited:
See the earlier entries about taking the case off and still not having any contacts visible. The flippers are glue- mounted to a tiny circuit board down in the works with a fine ribbon cable and socket. I could only peek at it.
Plus today I loosened up the two screws that hold the flippers to the case _from behind_. I jiggled that once or twice but it didn't do much so I tightend the screws back snug.
It's a standard flip block sure, but the design team at Yamaha made it unnecssarily hard to repair or clean.
Just now I found a finer compressed air nozzle which will fit inside the flipper openings. That may just move things around. But I'd rather not mess with it while it's currently working.
As to corrosion/ cleaning I used some brake cleaner on my toaster contacts which actually decarbonized it well enough to continue using the toaster. Probably a bad idea for these electronics though.
Plus today I loosened up the two screws that hold the flippers to the case _from behind_. I jiggled that once or twice but it didn't do much so I tightend the screws back snug.
It's a standard flip block sure, but the design team at Yamaha made it unnecssarily hard to repair or clean.
Just now I found a finer compressed air nozzle which will fit inside the flipper openings. That may just move things around. But I'd rather not mess with it while it's currently working.
As to corrosion/ cleaning I used some brake cleaner on my toaster contacts which actually decarbonized it well enough to continue using the toaster. Probably a bad idea for these electronics though.
Next time spray from the inside, with the flip switch open.
And get a new set, change them later.
They cost 25 cents at most here, so all this effort has been less worth than a cup of coffee at a decent restaurant...
And get a new set, change them later.
They cost 25 cents at most here, so all this effort has been less worth than a cup of coffee at a decent restaurant...
I mentioned before that access and replace is not possible without a complete
unit teardown which I would not attempt.
The adventure continues however. I moved the thing last night thinking it was operating correctly. It went silent again. While not giving it a smack, I rocked it vogorously from side to side, turned it on and it started again. It's reaching the point of absurdity.
unit teardown which I would not attempt.
The adventure continues however. I moved the thing last night thinking it was operating correctly. It went silent again. While not giving it a smack, I rocked it vogorously from side to side, turned it on and it started again. It's reaching the point of absurdity.