(breaking the path of); simply remove the 1.5uf cap?
I though I should remove the cap and solder a wire instead?
I though I should remove the cap and solder a wire instead?
No, just lift one leg of the cap (or resistor) - that will break the Zobel network path (C7 and R1).
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Galu is correct. 8.2R is rather a big shunt and will lower impedance unneccesarily. 22R might be OK in combination with a 2.2R at the input. Be about 3dB (half power) reduction.
These days I don't fit calculated Zobels which do rather more than you expect. Kills off the very top end too much.
I'd call that a "half-Zobel". Sounds good. Just adds a bit of smoothness to the top end without killing off the detail. I have very good ears for the natural sound, being a classical Piano fan used to live music.
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Removed one leg of 1.5uf caps and listened speakers for a while. High frequencies becomes more dominant, but too much. Bass becomes lowish and undefined.
After this experiment I removed polypropylene caps (3.3uf & 1.5uf) and used alcap lythics in that positions. First impression is sound becomes well balanced. I'll listen for a few days and report back again!
After this experiment I removed polypropylene caps (3.3uf & 1.5uf) and used alcap lythics in that positions. First impression is sound becomes well balanced. I'll listen for a few days and report back again!
The Zobel should only affect the top end above 5kHz. It is impedance correction, but works mainly with some series filter resistance for rolloff, which you don't currently have, so listen and see.
Electrolytics have a small built-in resistance around 0.5R, so may have an effect. If the tweeter is too loud, the main event will be to add some resistance to lower it.
Electrolytics have a small built-in resistance around 0.5R, so may have an effect. If the tweeter is too loud, the main event will be to add some resistance to lower it.
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I think my problem is I can't tell or explain the difference.
I don't know how 'loud tweeter' sounds like.
Or low output from tweeter (related to other drivers)!
I'll experiment and listen this week and share my findings for future ditton 332 tweeter victims 🙂
I don't know how 'loud tweeter' sounds like.
Or low output from tweeter (related to other drivers)!
I'll experiment and listen this week and share my findings for future ditton 332 tweeter victims 🙂
What does this mean?
If you are a tireless experimentalist, you could do worse than download this signal generator: Audio Tools - from David Taylor, Edinburgh
Sweepgen, when hooked up between your computer and your HiFi allows you to actually hear tones of various frequencies.
I have a feeling it would allow you to hear what was wrong with the B&W 602.
An overly hot tweeter. Made your ears bleed in a lively bare room. 😀
If you are a tireless experimentalist, you could do worse than download this signal generator: Audio Tools - from David Taylor, Edinburgh
Sweepgen, when hooked up between your computer and your HiFi allows you to actually hear tones of various frequencies.
I have a feeling it would allow you to hear what was wrong with the B&W 602.
An overly hot tweeter. Made your ears bleed in a lively bare room. 😀
Added 1.5ohm series, 33ohm paralel resistor to tweeter, now it's much better.
But! It's still not right.
My problem is definitely a hot tweeter! I'll increase to 2ohm&24ohm and check.
But! It's still not right.
My problem is definitely a hot tweeter! I'll increase to 2ohm&24ohm and check.
Downloaded the software, looks like it has lots to offer. Thanks.
I never have any b&w speaker, somehow I always had a feeling b&w is not for me 😉
All so long ago, I have forgotten most of it! 😀
My old Ditton 44, now consigned to the dump due to broken tinsel leads in the basses.
There are huge rambling threads on replacement tweeters on the Ditton 66. But bottom line seems to be the SEAS 19TFF needs taking down in level when replacing the HF2000. celestion ditton hf2000 replacement tweeter (again)
TBH, I think replacing a plastic or mylar dome with a soft dome is going to change the sound.
Any mylar dome tweeter suggestion?
What abot these;
Ricambio Diaframma Tweeter Celestion HF2001 - 8 Ohm - 662 332 442 | eBay
is it really possible to repair blown 2001s with these?
What abot these;
Ricambio Diaframma Tweeter Celestion HF2001 - 8 Ohm - 662 332 442 | eBay
is it really possible to repair blown 2001s with these?
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Looks alright to me. I don't know what engineering problems arise in replacing the voicecoil and dome. Fine tolerances involved to centre the dome and avoid rubbing. 😕
Plastic domes are currently unfashionable.
I have heard a few:
Excellent 3/4" tweeter. Wharfedale Shelton XP2. A minor classic IMO.
This Visaton DT94 one I warmed to less:
DT 94 - 8 Ohm | Visaton
All a bit vague, but I suspect this Monacor DT-19SU is a polydome:
https://www.monacor.com/products/components/speaker-technology/hi-fi-tweeters-/dt-19su/
There is a secret to be discovered about plastic polydomes. They have a rising response at high frequency. Which is neatly balanced out by the grille-cloth.
Plastic domes are currently unfashionable.
I have heard a few:
Excellent 3/4" tweeter. Wharfedale Shelton XP2. A minor classic IMO.
This Visaton DT94 one I warmed to less:
DT 94 - 8 Ohm | Visaton
All a bit vague, but I suspect this Monacor DT-19SU is a polydome:
https://www.monacor.com/products/components/speaker-technology/hi-fi-tweeters-/dt-19su/
There is a secret to be discovered about plastic polydomes. They have a rising response at high frequency. Which is neatly balanced out by the grille-cloth.
That's your best chance other than buying some used ones. I wouldn't waste any more money on different tweeters or crossover parts if I were you.
It's a bit of a long shot, but if you aren't liking the sound of the 19TFF1, it is possible to remove the ferrofluid.
H0737-08 19TFF 1
I took it out of my 19TAF/G and I find they sound much cleaner. Modern tweeters really don't need it, being sturdier. You carefully bend back three plastic clips and lift off the diaphragm. Then run some kitchen roll round the magnet gap. You can clean up the magnet with any aerosol degreaser or lubricant, magnets being unbreakable.
But you can always put it back:
Sonitus Audio Ferro Fluid (ferrofluid) 0.5ml from Sonitus Audio PS4.99 IN STOCK (26 Mar 2021)
I don't know if the HF2001 had ferrofluid.
H0737-08 19TFF 1
I took it out of my 19TAF/G and I find they sound much cleaner. Modern tweeters really don't need it, being sturdier. You carefully bend back three plastic clips and lift off the diaphragm. Then run some kitchen roll round the magnet gap. You can clean up the magnet with any aerosol degreaser or lubricant, magnets being unbreakable.
But you can always put it back:
Sonitus Audio Ferro Fluid (ferrofluid) 0.5ml from Sonitus Audio PS4.99 IN STOCK (26 Mar 2021)
I don't know if the HF2001 had ferrofluid.
"Voice coil windings immersed in magnetic fluid increase short term power handling capacity and reduce the compression at high power levels."
It has I think??
It has I think??
Trial no #4
Upped series resistor to 2.2ohm.
Decreased paralel resistor to 22ohm.
Better, but cymbals still does not sound right.
Trial no #5
Removed ferro-fluid from both tweeters.
Much much better. Cymbals sounds 'almost' right.
Some heavy recordings sounds like a train wreck.
Jazz, soul, blues sounds ok.
Pscyhedelic, hard rock, metal, glam sounds tiring....
I think there is no way to make these 19TFF1's sounds like HF2001.
Gonna try to fix blown HF2001s.
Upped series resistor to 2.2ohm.
Decreased paralel resistor to 22ohm.
Better, but cymbals still does not sound right.
Trial no #5
Removed ferro-fluid from both tweeters.
Much much better. Cymbals sounds 'almost' right.
Some heavy recordings sounds like a train wreck.
Jazz, soul, blues sounds ok.
Pscyhedelic, hard rock, metal, glam sounds tiring....
I think there is no way to make these 19TFF1's sounds like HF2001.
Gonna try to fix blown HF2001s.
Final situation;
Removed zobel across tweeter.
Only 2.2r for 3dB reduction (no paralel resistor).
Removed ferro-fluid from both tweeter.
This is most succesfull try so far.
Removed zobel across tweeter.
Only 2.2r for 3dB reduction (no paralel resistor).
Removed ferro-fluid from both tweeter.
This is most succesfull try so far.
Soft domes are not my favourite tweeters. I think they turn music into mush above 5kHz. I never knew why people thought the SEAS TFF1 was such a good replacement.
The Vifa/ Tymphany D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter is much closer to the Celestion with a plastic 3/4" dome:
Peerless by Tymphany D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter
Peerless by Tymphany D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter
It was popular some years back. And has that polydome brightness at the top end that is characteristic if you look at PE's frequency plot. Actually constructed much like the SEAS unit.
The Vifa/ Tymphany D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter is much closer to the Celestion with a plastic 3/4" dome:
Peerless by Tymphany D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter
Peerless by Tymphany D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter
It was popular some years back. And has that polydome brightness at the top end that is characteristic if you look at PE's frequency plot. Actually constructed much like the SEAS unit.
And, if I've followed the machinations correctly, the main recommendations that were made as the thread progressed. 😎