I have a Philips CD880 that I bought new in 1989. I decided to open it up to check for signs of leaky caps. There is one that has yellowish-brown gunk on the PCB around the entire base. It is an Elna 3300uf 35v with a red case and gold print but no series marked on it.
I have searched all the usual Elna dealer sites and Ebay with no success. For some reason I can find almost any other size except this one which shows as being made in the Elna RFO, R2O, RA2 and RA3 series. Does anyone know of a source?
I have searched all the usual Elna dealer sites and Ebay with no success. For some reason I can find almost any other size except this one which shows as being made in the Elna RFO, R2O, RA2 and RA3 series. Does anyone know of a source?
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Sounds like the cap was glued in, very common practice to protect the solder joint. Can you post a pic?
Try to google Elna Tonorex or a normal violett casing one and be aware precision is only 20%.
NOW I would not be to worried, due to temperature and joule effect these caps can handle 80 000 hours of service in normal using condition. They loose esr and are in main smoothing position, well even better like a Bordeaux.
If you really want to changenit for any else reason, a today Nichicon will be close enough. Be carefull with diameter of casing and the space between leads.
NOW I would not be to worried, due to temperature and joule effect these caps can handle 80 000 hours of service in normal using condition. They loose esr and are in main smoothing position, well even better like a Bordeaux.
If you really want to changenit for any else reason, a today Nichicon will be close enough. Be carefull with diameter of casing and the space between leads.
I'll take a picture later today and post it. It is the only cap that shows this in the entire CD player. It is physically near the analog section near a voltage regulator chip. I will also post the schematic of the section it is in. I have no idea of its function but the schematic shows that the ground is on the analog circuit.
I have Googled everyway possible for every Elna series that lists caps of this value. No luck except Ebay from China that have inconsistencies in the pictures or descriptions that make me think that they are not genuine.
I suspect that this one was the Tonerex equivalent in1989. The other Elnas in the CD player are either Cerafine (red/gold marked "Cerafine") or LAO equivalent (black/gold marked marked "for audio").
I have refurbished tons of Philips and Marantz cd'players. I would not be too much worried if it is still working. Anyway you have the Nichicons... sounding close enough. Why do you wan to change it ? Short ?
Yes avoid ebay but verry well known sites. Partconexions and so on.
Yes avoid ebay but verry well known sites. Partconexions and so on.
It is working as expected right now. I am going to change some caps from Cerafine to Silmic II in the analog output to see if it sounds better. I can aways revert back if I don't like the change.
I am also going to change the op amps to Sparkos Labs discrete op amps hoping to get even more resolution than the CD880 already has. We'll see. I gave to decide whether to install chip sockets or direct solder as Philips did.
The cap of your thread is one of the smoothing cap. There are several diodes bridges in this cd player.
But mains problems are not here but the ways they were managing the regs.
You can always try, just change one cap at the same time before checking and be aware the rom circuitry is fragile. Some aops will work bad with the 78xx and 79xx regs, yes better to putt a socket then without when you will be happy.
Off topic andnoaps are a complex subject and often they are not alone in the philips shematics...
Better to leave it genuine or keep the s1 tda to replace it with a normal one and keep the s1 for a sota dac.
Putting silmic everywhere will not improve things. Start by little touchs. Always let the cd player 1 hour switched off before to touch the caps.
Good luck, nice'player .
But mains problems are not here but the ways they were managing the regs.
You can always try, just change one cap at the same time before checking and be aware the rom circuitry is fragile. Some aops will work bad with the 78xx and 79xx regs, yes better to putt a socket then without when you will be happy.
Off topic andnoaps are a complex subject and often they are not alone in the philips shematics...
Better to leave it genuine or keep the s1 tda to replace it with a normal one and keep the s1 for a sota dac.
Putting silmic everywhere will not improve things. Start by little touchs. Always let the cd player 1 hour switched off before to touch the caps.
Good luck, nice'player .
I suspected that the cap was performing a smoothing or filtering function by its size. It is the only cap of this size that is not on the PS board.
I have attached the schematic of the circuit it is used in. I marked it with an arrow. You probably will have to enlarge it to be able to read it.
I don't have the knowledge to understand just what effect it might have on the sound though.
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Here is a picture that I had saved on my computer. It is not great but does show the capacitor (far left side of pic) I am concerned about. It is actually blue not red as my old man brain remembered. 😉
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just glue to avoid vibration or desoldering and cold joint due to the same behavior. Nothing bad, just glue !
Leave it in place... nothing to say here, Philips Blue KP in the curent injection circuit of the I/V with a Fet, Thomson yellow mkt for the DEM matching, BC 8278837 low noise, NJM 5532 very low noise version (double D) ! The cerafine that is lighter match well .
The big Elna is for the SAA filter or close. Nothing bad.
You could pu indeed a Sparkos, or an opa2604, any modern double aop but not on a dip8 adaptator a the rik to make the thing worse and anyway the circuit is complex enough and you could need t adapt things between the I/V and the other oap channel that seem for the buffer... the end of the circuitry is maybe about sound atenuation with the remote but I dunno !
My 2 cents... leave it as it is, it's a high end Philips cd player. Already been there.
Yo need more experience before working on a cd player like that, try to do your experience on cheaper ones imho, of course ymmv !
Leave it in place... nothing to say here, Philips Blue KP in the curent injection circuit of the I/V with a Fet, Thomson yellow mkt for the DEM matching, BC 8278837 low noise, NJM 5532 very low noise version (double D) ! The cerafine that is lighter match well .
The big Elna is for the SAA filter or close. Nothing bad.
You could pu indeed a Sparkos, or an opa2604, any modern double aop but not on a dip8 adaptator a the rik to make the thing worse and anyway the circuit is complex enough and you could need t adapt things between the I/V and the other oap channel that seem for the buffer... the end of the circuitry is maybe about sound atenuation with the remote but I dunno !
My 2 cents... leave it as it is, it's a high end Philips cd player. Already been there.
Yo need more experience before working on a cd player like that, try to do your experience on cheaper ones imho, of course ymmv !
Thanks for your help. I am just going to start by installing the Sparkos Labs op amps in the L&R fixed analog output circuits.. The fitment is going to be a bit problematic because the footprint is about 14mmx15mm vs 8mmx10mm for the NKM5532 chip. I will likely have to use a socket as a riser to clear some of the surrounding caps.
Anyway, thanks again for your help
Here is the Sparkos Labs datasheet if you are interested.
https://sparkoslabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/SS3601_SS3602.pdf
Just keep the Cerafine, the Silmic II are not better and less neutral whatever you can read here and there.
At re looking at the shematic, the second stage of the double op amp looks like more a filter than a buffer ! I didn't understand yet if the very low noise bc 728/738 transistors at the end are here as buffer and/or active attenuation spl level (for the remote control).
I would keep the Elna you talked about, I have still some working and much older in some audio devices I have on shelves (several amp, dozen if not more of cd players... this hobby is a disease
)
At re looking at the shematic, the second stage of the double op amp looks like more a filter than a buffer ! I didn't understand yet if the very low noise bc 728/738 transistors at the end are here as buffer and/or active attenuation spl level (for the remote control).
I would keep the Elna you talked about, I have still some working and much older in some audio devices I have on shelves (several amp, dozen if not more of cd players... this hobby is a disease
)
where the Elna S II can perform though is at the end of the oap in blocking DC position : look, you have two caps in serie at each output in reverse position : + - - + : here the Elna S 2 are often very very good in low voltage choice at swapping a bipolar, their dielectric makes miracle here sometimes. But drop a photo to know what you have there ! Maybe tie to open a thread in the digital section but if you want to keep it as it is, what I would advice...
I think you are referring to the 220uF (two L channel and two R channel) caps. Those are the ones I was considering to change to Silmic II. They are currently Cerafines.