OK, to start with from somewhere (measuring power supply voltages etc) the copper shields need to be unsoldered. If this is beyond your capabilities then sell the player as spares - most probably it can be brought back to life by knowledgeable technicians or it will serve as a valuable sparepart donor ;-)
I'm unable to find a (very) cheap courier otherwise I'd gift it to you (you or Mooly) to thank you for your kind support. 😉
If you find a cheap one from Italy, approx 15kg 50x35x15cm, let me know.
The cheaper I've found is 40-50€ to Estony or UK. For UK there's also an import duty (damn Brexit).
The transportation cost seems overpriced - any standard courier should charge ca 25...30 euros for a 10 kg package.
Thanks for thinking about gifting but all my racks are full of old gear and I am desperately out of space ;-)
Think about offering it here or selling it on eBay.
But should you really end up thinking about thrashing it then please let me know - I can order the package pickup myself.
Thanks for thinking about gifting but all my racks are full of old gear and I am desperately out of space ;-)
Think about offering it here or selling it on eBay.
But should you really end up thinking about thrashing it then please let me know - I can order the package pickup myself.
Its a very kind offer 🙂 but we would rather you try and fix it I think.
The next (easy) thing to check would be measuring all the relevant supply voltages to make sure none are doing anything strange. Although an oscilloscope is the best tool for that you can still measure the basic values and see whether any seem a long way off where they should be.
Measuring supply voltages is always the first thing to do in any serious fault-finding.
The next (easy) thing to check would be measuring all the relevant supply voltages to make sure none are doing anything strange. Although an oscilloscope is the best tool for that you can still measure the basic values and see whether any seem a long way off where they should be.
Measuring supply voltages is always the first thing to do in any serious fault-finding.
I fully remounted the player... and what a surprise, now left channel works (!) and headphone out also works (very) loud on left channel. Right channel instead is completely mute.
The player has constantly light buzz in background, like something that not goes to ground, I don't know if I'm clear enough.
I'm in a middle of one road, on a hand I'd like very much to repair it and on the other I don't have enough knowledge and time to do it. 🙄
The player has constantly light buzz in background, like something that not goes to ground, I don't know if I'm clear enough.
I'm in a middle of one road, on a hand I'd like very much to repair it and on the other I don't have enough knowledge and time to do it. 🙄
This points at bad/cracked solder joints.
As a preventive measure sometimes all solder joints in old equipment is resoldered - even before starting to hunt for other failures. In this player case this would be (at first stage) confined to the output stage areas and voltage regulators. Certainly, the SMD components do not make this task any easier.
Should you remove the copper covers then you can start applying gentle pressure (or knocking gently) with a pencil to the board areas and bigger components to see if any area brings the sound back.
with the possibility of intermittant/cracked solders a magnifying glass can be an invaluable tool in finding them.