Hey Folks,
After installing a new solar array last year. I have been keenly aware that the system runs at an average of 365 VDC. Seems like that would be perfect to run a pair of EL84's or even 6L6's in PP. Granted I would still need to get the filament voltage. But geeks are always going to be geekin! I am going to build something up for my garage to take advantage of this situation that seems to be crying out to me...LOL
After installing a new solar array last year. I have been keenly aware that the system runs at an average of 365 VDC. Seems like that would be perfect to run a pair of EL84's or even 6L6's in PP. Granted I would still need to get the filament voltage. But geeks are always going to be geekin! I am going to build something up for my garage to take advantage of this situation that seems to be crying out to me...LOL
Here's what I'm using to run my stereo and refrigerator/freezer:
2ea. HQST 100watt Monocrystalline solar panels
1ea. GIANDEL 1200watt pure sine wave inverter
1ea. AiLi Battery Monitor Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage Current Meter 8-80V 0-100A
1ea. Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Block
1ea. Battle Born LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery - 100Ah 12v with Built-in BMS
1ea. Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/15 Solar Charge Controller 75V 15A with Bluetooth
2ea. HQST 100watt Monocrystalline solar panels
1ea. GIANDEL 1200watt pure sine wave inverter
1ea. AiLi Battery Monitor Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage Current Meter 8-80V 0-100A
1ea. Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Block
1ea. Battle Born LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery - 100Ah 12v with Built-in BMS
1ea. Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/15 Solar Charge Controller 75V 15A with Bluetooth
The most expensive component is the battery. I don't like the lead/acid battery because of the hydrogen gas in a closed space.
You need to determine how many watts you'll use for the equipment you want to power. There's a plethora of websites for solar power because of all the preppers, but I use it to save some money and so that my food won't spoil in case of nuclear war. That's also why I have a lot of tube gear. If the world ends and I'm not near ground zero, I'll be able to have music.
You need to determine how many watts you'll use for the equipment you want to power. There's a plethora of websites for solar power because of all the preppers, but I use it to save some money and so that my food won't spoil in case of nuclear war. That's also why I have a lot of tube gear. If the world ends and I'm not near ground zero, I'll be able to have music.
Battery may be not necessary for the high voltage supply. Good thing about solar cells is their constant voltage, regardless of solar radiation intensity and load, as long as current is not excessive for given solar condition.
Of course, the disadvantage is that music can be only enjoyed during the day.
Of course, the disadvantage is that music can be only enjoyed during the day.
Your B+ would be like a battery. You could also put a tube amp in a hybrid or tesla.
120w array should do it.
120w array should do it.
radioeng, so you want to run directly off the solar array, no other components??
Not a good idea, the DC voltage is all over the place on a perfect day... then there's clouds!
Not a good idea, the DC voltage is all over the place on a perfect day... then there's clouds!
Not true. Solar cells have constant voltage. What changes with illumination is current output.
Hey Guys, thanks for the input. My original intent was to hijack some HV from my inverter input to run some audio in my garage. Since the inverter hangs on the rear wall of the garage, this seemed like a logical choice. As for the consistency of the voltage. My system uses Solar Edge power optimizers on each of my 32 panels. Since they are essentially just buck/boost converters, the voltage remains amazingly consistent. And since I am usually only working in the garage during the daylight hours. It seemed like a good project, especially for someone drowning in parts, tubes and amplifier chassis.
Duke, sounds like you made some good choices with your solar/battery backup. LiFePO4 batteries are a very good deal these days. And they will be included in phase 2 of our solar project. For the moment we are just running a 10Kw grid tied system. Phase 2 will be located on the other part of our property, and will provide power for our well, as well as backup power for our critical systems.
Duke, sounds like you made some good choices with your solar/battery backup. LiFePO4 batteries are a very good deal these days. And they will be included in phase 2 of our solar project. For the moment we are just running a 10Kw grid tied system. Phase 2 will be located on the other part of our property, and will provide power for our well, as well as backup power for our critical systems.
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Agreed! For some of us Green=$$$! Finally got rid of my $700 summer power bill, and I love it! Now time to get down to some amp modding. I found a pair of old Heathkit integrated amps that use 5881's as finals in one of my storage containers. They look like good candidates for the garage. Especially given the price of rectifier tubes these days!
That's why I did it- the whole system cost ~$1500. A couple of summer power bills and it's paid for.
We are billed every two months where I live. Around $350/month for four people in our home, two are always home, wife and 93 year-old mother in law.
Another advantage is we don't worry about rolling blackouts.
Another advantage is we don't worry about rolling blackouts.
Well, this would not be a good idea around here.
Even if we have 18 kWp on the roof there would not be much music from november to march.
But class A works well as central heating.
/Figge
Even if we have 18 kWp on the roof there would not be much music from november to march.
But class A works well as central heating.
/Figge