I'll start by stating I'm not an audiophile and initially I am trying to understand if I can improve on the sound quality of a speaker I have just bought for less $$ and have something I can say I built. If I can hear a difference then I might try to improve on that.
I have seen a lot of new builders failing to know exactly what they want so I have tried to define below what I want to do, it's not pushing the boundaries of audio science and if there are more appropriate forums I should look at please let me know, this does look like a forum where expectations are high but we all have to start somewhere.
I'm happy to use proven designs to get the first build under my belt as I learn about all of the variables.
Being in Australia we seem to pay more and have less choice of components so I'll call a US$250 budget for components, I'll use mdf to build to enclosure (not included in budget).
So I want to build a single speaker/amp with the following minimum specs.
20W power
frequency 45 -22,000Hz
2 way
Sits in a box about 166 x 320 x 180 mm
RCA and line input
Nice to have
WiFi capable
Bluetooth capable
The speaker I have has the following drivers
Tweeter: 2 x 3⁄4” textile dome
Woofer: 5.25” long throw
I can work with wood and solder and measure things once and cut things wrong
I have identified these components and kits which give me the opportunity to build a matching pair or to build two speakers using different designs with the same components to see the difference. Would appreciate thoughts...
Soundlabs Group Aria Speaker Kit
Stereo 20W Class D Audio Amplifier - MAX9744 Australia
I have seen a lot of new builders failing to know exactly what they want so I have tried to define below what I want to do, it's not pushing the boundaries of audio science and if there are more appropriate forums I should look at please let me know, this does look like a forum where expectations are high but we all have to start somewhere.
I'm happy to use proven designs to get the first build under my belt as I learn about all of the variables.
Being in Australia we seem to pay more and have less choice of components so I'll call a US$250 budget for components, I'll use mdf to build to enclosure (not included in budget).
So I want to build a single speaker/amp with the following minimum specs.
20W power
frequency 45 -22,000Hz
2 way
Sits in a box about 166 x 320 x 180 mm
RCA and line input
Nice to have
WiFi capable
Bluetooth capable
The speaker I have has the following drivers
Tweeter: 2 x 3⁄4” textile dome
Woofer: 5.25” long throw
I can work with wood and solder and measure things once and cut things wrong
I have identified these components and kits which give me the opportunity to build a matching pair or to build two speakers using different designs with the same components to see the difference. Would appreciate thoughts...
Soundlabs Group Aria Speaker Kit
Stereo 20W Class D Audio Amplifier - MAX9744 Australia
There's a lot confusing about your request. My first observation is that your amp board is way overpriced - Ebay will give you better for 20 dollars.
A pair of active speakers is always a tricky build especially using a stereo amp. One cabinet must contain the amp and PSU, subsequently maintaining equal internal volumes creates extra work.
For my money 2.1 is the way to go.
XH-A305 TPA3116D2 Bluetooth 5.0 Digital Amplifier Board 2.1 Channel High Power | eBay
A steal at 25 dollars.
Next: probably the cheapest way to power your amp is with a 90w laptop power supply: For Samsung 2 3 4 7 Series 90W Laptop Notebook AC Adapter Battery Charger PSU | eBay
We're up to 50 dollars. Build yourself a 20 litre cabinet, install your amp and PSU inside, and find yourself a nice 8" bass driver (ignore car subs).
A pair of active speakers is always a tricky build especially using a stereo amp. One cabinet must contain the amp and PSU, subsequently maintaining equal internal volumes creates extra work.
For my money 2.1 is the way to go.
XH-A305 TPA3116D2 Bluetooth 5.0 Digital Amplifier Board 2.1 Channel High Power | eBay
A steal at 25 dollars.
Next: probably the cheapest way to power your amp is with a 90w laptop power supply: For Samsung 2 3 4 7 Series 90W Laptop Notebook AC Adapter Battery Charger PSU | eBay
We're up to 50 dollars. Build yourself a 20 litre cabinet, install your amp and PSU inside, and find yourself a nice 8" bass driver (ignore car subs).
Damn I tried so hard not to make it confusing 😀
I'll give the ebay amp a looking at and compare/contrast, I'll keep looking 'cause it wasn't really what I wanted but what I found as an example.
I'm trying to replicate and then improve the sound of a audiopro addon c10 - I should have mentioned this. So at this point I only need mono Addon C10 - Audio Pro.
I was thinking the speaker kit would give me a quick win in building the first and then I'd have a benchmark to see how sound could be improved initially with the same drivers and perhaps enclosure or amp changes.
I would then be willing to spend some extra pennies to build a better speaker as I hear improvements. once I move on I can re use the original components and make some half decent computer speakers.
so id like to start with similar specs as I could drag from the Audiopro information.
I'll give the ebay amp a looking at and compare/contrast, I'll keep looking 'cause it wasn't really what I wanted but what I found as an example.
I'm trying to replicate and then improve the sound of a audiopro addon c10 - I should have mentioned this. So at this point I only need mono Addon C10 - Audio Pro.
I was thinking the speaker kit would give me a quick win in building the first and then I'd have a benchmark to see how sound could be improved initially with the same drivers and perhaps enclosure or amp changes.
I would then be willing to spend some extra pennies to build a better speaker as I hear improvements. once I move on I can re use the original components and make some half decent computer speakers.
so id like to start with similar specs as I could drag from the Audiopro information.
I think you should do it. Sorry if the place looks like it's geared for advanced builders, there is advice for all levels.
So you want to clone a passive crossover... Can you work with a transfer function? (One of many potential questions)
So you want to clone a passive crossover... Can you work with a transfer function? (One of many potential questions)
If that's the case I don't think I (or anybody else) can help you. Sound is subjective. I guarantee your ears are shaped differently to mine. If you really want help from experienced people - explain the weaknesses of your current system, better people than me will help you fix it.
If, with no experience, you want to spend $250 building a pair of speakers, trust me - they will be ****. But, hey, we love our ugly kids.
Are you asking whether I can input a standard sounds and then measure it and compare it, I'm sure I can rig something up but I'm guessing I'll need a specific microphone and sound environment (I do have access to a number of studio mics but they may not be quite right)
Yeah some of the other threads seem to highlight the ability for some experienced builders to forget that they once had no idea, hopefully I'll get up to speed reasonably quickly.
if you have something with an omni pattern it should be good enough for basic mesurements for setting up a crossover....
There are many ways you can do this. I was thinking of ways that don't involve a mic, which might even be more accurate.
If you knew what your passives were doing, could you make it happen with your active devices.. ie, how does it work and what is your preferred method of handling this information?
So after a bit of reading and thinking my direction is leaning toward a mic type system as this way of measuring makes more sense to me at this point.
I also have access to some bits of equipment.
It might not be perfect (possibly not even close) but it will give me a reference point.
A Yamaha AG03 (i Have access to one) coupled with a Behringer ECM800 (I'll need to buy one but it's affordable) I have a PC with a soundblaster audigy card that I case press into service for this too.
Again the system may not give me a perfect view of the world but I should be able to get a relative view from a starting point (the current speakers).
I also have access to some bits of equipment.
It might not be perfect (possibly not even close) but it will give me a reference point.
A Yamaha AG03 (i Have access to one) coupled with a Behringer ECM800 (I'll need to buy one but it's affordable) I have a PC with a soundblaster audigy card that I case press into service for this too.
Again the system may not give me a perfect view of the world but I should be able to get a relative view from a starting point (the current speakers).
Let me confuse you further Jeremy.
With a passive speaker, what you want to do is build a powered loudspeaker.
An active loudspeaker is one that has an amplifier for each driver and an XO before the amplifiers. The amplifiers and XO do not need to reside inside the speaker (but can).
dave
With a passive speaker, what you want to do is build a powered loudspeaker.
An active loudspeaker is one that has an amplifier for each driver and an XO before the amplifiers. The amplifiers and XO do not need to reside inside the speaker (but can).
dave
This is the first thing I've read on here that didn't need me to google something technical.
I will be building the amp and crossover into the box, although from the outside it will be within the box, from the inside it will be in it's own chamber so that I keep the speaker chamber free from impurities.
I'm also leaning to a driver/crossover kit and at least start with something that's sort of meant to go together I can add in the space for the amp to the box design. If that works, I can tweak from there.