I have recently acquired a pair of Eltax floor-standing 10i speakers. They are surplus to my requirements and pretty damn awful.
They are literally a waste of space. The twin 5" bass drivers produce little or no bass. However, the design of the cabinet provides room for me to install a 6.5" down-firing sub. (The speakers are on spikes anyway).
The logical solution would be to seal the sub in the lower half of the box. However, this would require carpentry skills beyond my pay grade.
What are the effects of the subwoofer, the two bass drivers, and the port all sharing the same internal airspace.
Hopefully you can see from the pic what I'm trying to do.
They are literally a waste of space. The twin 5" bass drivers produce little or no bass. However, the design of the cabinet provides room for me to install a 6.5" down-firing sub. (The speakers are on spikes anyway).
The logical solution would be to seal the sub in the lower half of the box. However, this would require carpentry skills beyond my pay grade.
What are the effects of the subwoofer, the two bass drivers, and the port all sharing the same internal airspace.
Hopefully you can see from the pic what I'm trying to do.
Attachments
The sub will modulate the woofers down low and the woofers will modulate the sub in its upper harmonics, so using DSP to get a really 'fast' [high order] slope and finding the best overall XO point to keep the critical [mid] bass, lower mids as clear as practical will be the goal. As to how it will sound......... guessing OK if its not driven hard.
The best way to do this is to calculate the net internal volume, measure the drivers and average their specs to sim them in Hornresp or similar as a large single driver, which in turn will 'nail down' the most 'optimal' XO point/slope or in some cases won't need one at all if not driven to anywhere near there peak [music] power capability.
A successful 'marriage' w/o an XO 😉: https://web.archive.org/web/2012031...ndell/xentar/1179/theory/dddllqd/dddllqd.html
GM
The best way to do this is to calculate the net internal volume, measure the drivers and average their specs to sim them in Hornresp or similar as a large single driver, which in turn will 'nail down' the most 'optimal' XO point/slope or in some cases won't need one at all if not driven to anywhere near there peak [music] power capability.
A successful 'marriage' w/o an XO 😉: https://web.archive.org/web/2012031...ndell/xentar/1179/theory/dddllqd/dddllqd.html
GM
I would build separate sub. Most likely your typical square box, closed, no ports, but big enough. And place it appropriately in the room to augment the missing low frequencies. Small plate amp could be built in, and allow simple adjustment for volume, cut off and phase.
That way you do not need to modify the towers. Its not likely that by placing extra woofers inside the towers things will be better, on the contrary.
That way you do not need to modify the towers. Its not likely that by placing extra woofers inside the towers things will be better, on the contrary.
I would also build a seperate sub, the effect will be not what you want. I don't know what subdriver you want to use, but dividing the existing space will make that both the sub and the 2 5'' drivers will not see the full space and won't go as low as you wish. It's easier to make a good seperate sub and use a plate amp with dsp or so to power it and leave the towers untouched. Or you full rebuild the towers with smaller spaces for the 5" drivers (calculated on the desired response from specs) and a seperate subwoofer section fit for that subwoofer.
I will not under any circumstances be building a separate sub. My point was that each cabinet seems to contain 7-9 litres of wasted volume.
I have experience of the bookshelf variant of this model (single 5" woofer, identical tweeter). These 10is produce no significant increase in bass despite having 3 x the cabinet volume.
I have experience of the bookshelf variant of this model (single 5" woofer, identical tweeter). These 10is produce no significant increase in bass despite having 3 x the cabinet volume.
What you want to do is impossible, 7-9L is not enough space for a subwoofer that gives real bass at an more or less equal efficiency of the speaker (which is 93dB at 2.83v/1m). Such a sub need at least 50L to go low...
Surtsey,
The 5" speakers could be enclosed, each using a 6" PVC Sewer and Drain Cap, with a section of pipe to increase the volume for each if desired.
A couple screws, a notch for wires, and lots of construction adhesive, very low pay grade carpentry, less skill required than cutting the hole for the woofer.
The woofer could be mounted as shown on top, magnet in or out.
Art
Sorry, but what you're saying makes no sense in practical reality. A Bose Companion 5 sub has an internal volume of 7 litres with a port tuned to 50hz.
My Audica Microsubs (8" Drivers) are less than 20 litres.
The Samsung sub (from which the 6.5" driver was taken) has an internal volume of less than 15 litres.
50 litres is fantastical - if I was using a 10" driver!
I like this.
Cutting a hole is not the issue. The issues are (i) the cabinet design contain curves. Cutting a perfectly shaped divider could prove challenging. (ii) Trying to fix the dividing panels through a 165mm driver cut-out would be akin to keyhole surgery.
Sealing off the 5" bass drivers looks like a way forward.
But those are low efficient drivers, that won't match the rest of the speaker on volume, except when using a seperate amp and an active crossover. You said you want to add them with passive...
I don't believe you are working in the practical world. Systems using small bass drivers typically produce 85-88db @ 1w. The award winning Wharfedale Diamond 220 offering 86dB and a frequency response from 56hz - All using a 7 litre cabinet.
Without getting into the weeds: the 5" drivers are unable to produce sub-bass frequencies whatever size cabinet they housed in. My theoretical solution is to divert the sub 100hz signal to a driver that can.