DAyton PS95-8

[SpeedyG]

Hello everyone! I have a pair of Dayton PS95-8 speakers. I want to build on-wall speakers to improve the sound of the television. Can you recommend a well-tried BR plan with BSC circuit ?
I put them in a ca. 3 liter vented box tuned to 70hz. I find them too bright.

Regards, Zoltan

 

[freddi]

hi SpeedyG, besides LR baffle step compensation, scale the image below so the outer two arc's spacing is the size of your driver's frame. Print it and cut out on cardboard or foamboard the wavy aperture.

Long axis would be like shown if you're trying to improve horizontal response.

At its "waist" and for your driver that narrow part will probably only be about one inch wide or so.

IF if works to your liking, then you could make a version that looks nice.


BTW, XRK971 made a little "XKi" Karlson type with that driver and the horizontal "polars" were really impressive

The slot filter of course will cover the whole front of your driver
I drew it this way to conserve ink.

 

[SpeedyG]

Thx freddi, I will give it a try.

 

[SpeedyG]

BTW, I'm not stick to BR enclosure. I would like to make the most of it.

 

[freddi]

XRK971's study of Karlson aperture effects included a tiny build for Dayton's RS100-4 mid woofer. X later loaded a PS95 with excellent results including remarkably even horizontal dispersion in the top octaves.

Here's info


XKi - X's ab initio Karlson 6th Order Bandpass

XKi - X's ab initio Karlson 6th Order Bandpass

XKi - X's ab initio Karlson 6th Order Bandpass

PLAN - I goofed and titled PS85 as "4" rather than "8"

 

[xrk971]

Try 1mH and 6.2ohm BSC. That’s the usual baffle step loss that makes them bright. They are nice sounding drivers.

Even low cost iron core inductor is fine.

Dayton Audio 1.0mH 18 AWG I Core Inductor Crossover Coil

Adjust resistor to taste.

Jantzen Audio 6.20 Ohm 10 Watt Audio-Grade Superes Resistor

 

[AllenB]

Note that mounting speakers on a wall which were not designed for wall mounting, potentially increases listening fatigue as it can multiply the effects of diffraction through the near reflections. Designing for wall mounting involves mitigating these effects, including such techniques as less wide dispersion and blending of the baffle to the wall.

baffle step loss

Referring to this as a loss is going to mislead, as it is the very energy that goes around the box that is the problem.

 

[mikejennens]

Just a question about this, and it's not meant as antagonistic or with any contempt: I was under the impression baffle step loss is the loss of bass as the lower frequency notes are more omnidirectional; thus, they travel around the enclosure. Wouldn't an infinite baffle like a wall "increase" the bass response and appear to make the speaker less fatiguing? Maybe more muddy? Aren't the fatiguing aspects of a speaker the higher midrange sounds?
Like I mentioned, this is a sincere question.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[AllenB]

One has to assume, that the forward response will be 'fixed' as much as possible under the circumstances. Therefore your question about having too much of something maybe should be rephrased to ask, what else is happening that isn't right.

Fatigue is not a very specific and well defined term, but is sometimes understood to refer to the level of reflections, and not necessarily lower frequency ones, although they could definitely be a problem.

 

[svobodin]

I want to build a simple bookshelf speakers and have Dayton PS95-8. I cannot find plans detailed enough that I can use.

 

[Sangram]

PS95 can be used in ~4L sealed box. Vented box is really not suitable for this driver unless listening really close.

Needs baffle step correction, which further affects driver usability. As it is, has both low sensitivity and low excursion. Would work well as a midrange unit with assist below 300Hz. Needs either a tweeter to cross around the dip @2K or for you to live with a recessed midrange.

I do have a semi-active simulation (not yet built) in a 3-way monitor format. Requires asymmetric active XO to a Peerless 830657 and I used a SB26STCN tweeter from 2k onwards, to avoid the horrible and audible midrange dip. I have drivers ready but the pandemic pushed the build back by a year, maybe more. It's probably too complicated for your request though.

 

[svobodin]

I have them in Frugel Lite and they sound good to my ears.

I have seen photos them used in a a simple bookshelf enclosures both vented and unvented. Anyone has good plans for them?

 

[waxx]

Those speakers are not ment to be used in a BR i think, and they will never give real bass. only a very peaky upperbass. They are ment to be used sealed with a subwoofer with a crossover at 150hz or higher. Maybe a TL could work also with those specs.

Best bet will be a 5L sealed, with a subwoofer crossed rather high under the tv.