Hey guys, this is my first post on here and my first venture into an active 2-way speaker. I currently own DIY Sound Group HT-12s as part of my cinema set-up and love the way they sound and want to build a second pair of similar style speakers for a desk-top monitoring/ mixing set up at high spls but whilst also having crystal clarity.
I would like the 2-way to consist of an 8" mid-bass driver and seos 10 waveguide so as to keep the size of the cabinet to a minimum, the HT12's are huge in comparison. I am seriously considering the Faital Pro 8PR200 and the Faital Pro HF10AK for this combo as I have heard great things about both drivers, although I am reading a lot about the B&C DE250 which is on sale right now and £40 less than the Faital. This will be an active speaker using one of the Hypex Fusion Plate amps. I have yet to learn the software but should be able to get to grips with it pretty quickly.
I would love the speaker to be able to play down to around 40hz, however I realise I may be asking to much from an 8" and may need to pair these with a sub. Originally I was planning on porting the speaker, using an internal volume of around 20l and ported to 45 (ish)hz, however I can't seem to model a port that works. The velocity is either way to high or the port resonance is way too low. I assume I would cross somewhere in the 1.5khz range, but I can't seem to get the 1st port resonance above this with a useable velocity. How important is it that the resonance is kept out of the passband for the mid-bass driver and is there any way of telling if it would be a problem in the passband? I suppose this would show in any measurements I make pre-crossover.
I have a UMIK1 and was hoping this would be adequate for taking any measurements I need to make.
As I say this is my first from-scratch build. Any advice on the components listed would be great.
I would like the 2-way to consist of an 8" mid-bass driver and seos 10 waveguide so as to keep the size of the cabinet to a minimum, the HT12's are huge in comparison. I am seriously considering the Faital Pro 8PR200 and the Faital Pro HF10AK for this combo as I have heard great things about both drivers, although I am reading a lot about the B&C DE250 which is on sale right now and £40 less than the Faital. This will be an active speaker using one of the Hypex Fusion Plate amps. I have yet to learn the software but should be able to get to grips with it pretty quickly.
I would love the speaker to be able to play down to around 40hz, however I realise I may be asking to much from an 8" and may need to pair these with a sub. Originally I was planning on porting the speaker, using an internal volume of around 20l and ported to 45 (ish)hz, however I can't seem to model a port that works. The velocity is either way to high or the port resonance is way too low. I assume I would cross somewhere in the 1.5khz range, but I can't seem to get the 1st port resonance above this with a useable velocity. How important is it that the resonance is kept out of the passband for the mid-bass driver and is there any way of telling if it would be a problem in the passband? I suppose this would show in any measurements I make pre-crossover.
I have a UMIK1 and was hoping this would be adequate for taking any measurements I need to make.
As I say this is my first from-scratch build. Any advice on the components listed would be great.
Modell the boxes slightly larger internally, maybe that help to tune low with adequate port cross-section area.
I suggest that you rask around for opinions on ( + then buy if applicable ) a pair of DIYSG S2000
Then in the future, when get your design chops together, see if you can better it // the advantage here is you'll have something to compare to.
🙂
PS ; Jeff Bagly and Peter Schumacher have both designed ( for DIYSG ) speakers/control monitors that were functionally very close to what you're talking about .
- They didn't sell well, so were struck from the sales roster. I suggest that you research their particulars ( most of the documentation is findable over TechTalk .
Then in the future, when get your design chops together, see if you can better it // the advantage here is you'll have something to compare to.
🙂
PS ; Jeff Bagly and Peter Schumacher have both designed ( for DIYSG ) speakers/control monitors that were functionally very close to what you're talking about .
- They didn't sell well, so were struck from the sales roster. I suggest that you research their particulars ( most of the documentation is findable over TechTalk .
Very similar to what I and skvinson did...
Going after JaWZ! -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
Passive xover with measurements...
Wolf
Going after JaWZ! -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
Passive xover with measurements...
Wolf
I suggest that you rask around for opinions on ( + then buy if applicable ) a pair of DIYSG S2000
Then in the future, when get your design chops together, see if you can better it // the advantage here is you'll have something to compare to.
🙂
PS ; Jeff Bagly and Peter Schumacher have both designed ( for DIYSG ) speakers/control monitors that were functionally very close to what you're talking about .
- They didn't sell well, so were struck from the sales roster. I suggest that you research their particulars ( most of the documentation is findable over TechTalk .
I bought some Presonus Eris E8XT's to compare to my HT12s (Seos 15, Eminence 12, Celestion CD), and prefferred the Presonus in all areas. More detail to the high frequency, smoother midrange. Preffered for both music and movies use. However when watching films at reference and high levels of music they do sound strained.
I'm ready to embark on my first DIY speaker. Figure active crossover should be easiest for my first go.
Thinking of using the above components, just wondering if the Faital CD will give me the same level of detail and air as the domes in the Presonus.
Instead of the 8" driver maybe model a 10" with your waveguide. XO around 1.6hz should be doable.
Any 10’s you’d recommend for this type of project, only reason for the drivers linked is Stafi build uses the same drivers and it’s one of his favourite designs in terms of dynamics and fidelity which is what I’m going for here. I must add that these speakers should I build them will double as home theatre speakers and also near field studio monitors. I’m looking to basically replicate the sound I get from the Presonus but at a higher spl. I will add that extension is no longer an issue, they will be crossed over above 80hz in either configuration.
I have no experience with that compression driver ( HF10K ) so can't offer any opinion as to it ( 44.4mm plastic dome CD ) rivalling a 35mm soft-dome in "air + detail" .
I will say that for surround duties I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Peerless DFM-2535 ( 35mm damped Ti dome ) on some small waveguide ( like the 18Sound XT120 ) over an 8" woofer ( either your FaitalPro choice or the B&C 8PS21 ).
Here's a ( Matt Grant ) YouTube video of something similar ( from early DIYSG product using a B&C 8" and a 25mm plastic dome CD > B&C de10) ;
"Minion" aka "Little Mayhem" DIY speaker design test #2 - YouTube
🙂
I will say that for surround duties I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Peerless DFM-2535 ( 35mm damped Ti dome ) on some small waveguide ( like the 18Sound XT120 ) over an 8" woofer ( either your FaitalPro choice or the B&C 8PS21 ).
Here's a ( Matt Grant ) YouTube video of something similar ( from early DIYSG product using a B&C 8" and a 25mm plastic dome CD > B&C de10) ;
"Minion" aka "Little Mayhem" DIY speaker design test #2 - YouTube
🙂
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