Great to have them separate. But after looking through different subwoofer placement strategies you might not locate them under you two main channels.
If you do invest in separate subs you'll get to use them no matter what kind of mains you finally settle on.
miniDSP 2x4HD is decent place to start, although it's a bit limited in terms of # of channels. freeDSP Aurora has 8 channels but would require more of a time investment, and may be a little weaker in terms of what kind of FIR filters can be implemented (less powerful DSP).
For amps, there are a lot pre-built modules available online (TPA3255 is pretty popular nowadays), or you can go with something like an LM3886 for a simple bare PCB build.
How much time vs money are you looking to spend?
Any recommendations for a good 3 way build for around $500 ??? monitors or floor standing would be great 🙂[/QUOTE]
You might want to check out kits on these sites
Zaph|Audio
DIY-Loudspeakers
good luck!
You might want to check out kits on these sites
Zaph|Audio
DIY-Loudspeakers
good luck!
How much time are we talking? I quite enjoy soldering passive crossovers together. This also allows me to simply plug it in and BOOM I have perfect sound! (assuming I am building a well engineered kit)
I am quite versed in setting up active crossovers in cars. But I always just used Auto tune for EQ and such. Does the Mini dsp have any auto tuning features?
Having the ability to fully tune does interest me though. Having the ability to pick up good clearance drivers on parts express and put together a speaker has always intrigued me. But would the investment in time equal an already well engineered speaker from Zaph or Madisound???
Also, I must say that even though I have all the equipment to build enclosures, I much prefer the ease of flat packs!
I am quite versed in setting up active crossovers in cars. But I always just used Auto tune for EQ and such. Does the Mini dsp have any auto tuning features?
Having the ability to fully tune does interest me though. Having the ability to pick up good clearance drivers on parts express and put together a speaker has always intrigued me. But would the investment in time equal an already well engineered speaker from Zaph or Madisound???
Also, I must say that even though I have all the equipment to build enclosures, I much prefer the ease of flat packs!
Well, if you're looking to learn more about speaker design & integration, going active is a really nice way to do it since you'll have to familiarize yourself with driver measurement, filter tuning, etc. Also, once you build your DSP & multi-channel amp system, you can continue to reuse it for an unlimited number of speakers, if you get bored of any particular set.
If you are OK with two-way active (i.e. 2x4 HD) then you just need to set yourself up with 4 channels of amplification, any which way you can. Then, you just build the speaker as normal, but instead of the passive crossover, you measure your drivers (in box / in baffle), punch your filters into the software, and measure again to check the outcome. Not having to pay for passive crossover elements could be quite the savings in the long run.
With the Aurora, you can go stereo 4-way, but then you'd need more amp channels and you have to figure out the Aurora power supply, chassis, chassis connections, etc. Pros and cons.
Another option - if you are using your PC as your main source - is to run a Windows/Linux-based software DSP, and then feed to your amps with something like a Motu Ultralite Mk4. Boom, forever solution (more $$$).
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I actually own a focusright scarlet solo and a decent mic. But the software was what kept me from going any further....it was a STEEP learning curve and just too daunting!
I also have a Zoudio 4 channel amp with DSP.....but again the software was simply NOT very user friendly. And I became stuck !
BUT the minidsp website sounds like their software is MUCH easier to use!
I would love to pick up some flat packs, or good used tower speakers off marketplace to use the encloures. Then I could pick my own drivers off parts express or whatnot (I've really been wanting to do a 3 way with an dayton RS180, RS52FN-8 and a Fountek NeoCd3.0.
But where do I start next with choosing crossover points and setting up EQ ???
I also have a Zoudio 4 channel amp with DSP.....but again the software was simply NOT very user friendly. And I became stuck !
BUT the minidsp website sounds like their software is MUCH easier to use!
I would love to pick up some flat packs, or good used tower speakers off marketplace to use the encloures. Then I could pick my own drivers off parts express or whatnot (I've really been wanting to do a 3 way with an dayton RS180, RS52FN-8 and a Fountek NeoCd3.0.
But where do I start next with choosing crossover points and setting up EQ ???
I've come to the conclusion I just don't have the time(and patience) to invest in learning how to properly tune an active crossover network and EQ everything perfectly right now.
I have decided that in my movie room I will have an 11.1 speaker setup. So I will just continue to build speakers untill I have enough 🙂
What kit should I build next?? 🙂
I've been interested in:
solstice
philharmonitor
The travelers
statements monitor(though it seems outdated at this point)
I have also heard alot of hype about the new Triangle Borea BR03. Anyone heard it ?? (its a production speaker though)
I have decided that in my movie room I will have an 11.1 speaker setup. So I will just continue to build speakers untill I have enough 🙂
What kit should I build next?? 🙂
I've been interested in:
solstice
philharmonitor
The travelers
statements monitor(though it seems outdated at this point)
I have also heard alot of hype about the new Triangle Borea BR03. Anyone heard it ?? (its a production speaker though)
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The big question here is: how old and rich are you? If you're too old to learn new tricks and financially set, pay someone to wizard what you desire. If you are young and well off, barter, beg, and trade your way into the ideal setup. If you're young and broke, either hit the bricks or lower your expectations.
very well said Jeff ! I think the ultimate reason I enjoy Audio is to listen to the speakers. With that said, getting to that point and learning different methods to get there FAST is probably what I enjoy the most.
I think as I get older and experience more and more speakers, I will be able to sit down with a proper measuring system and start tuning and dialing in my room. (I don't have a room yet 🙂 )
untill then I will probably just build lots of kits, and buy finished speakers. For black Friday I picked up a pair of the new Triangle Borea BR08. And I grabbed some half price deals on Tymphany 830874 6-1/2" PPB Cone HDS Woofers at Parts express. Along with the Tymphany XT25TG30-04 1" Dual Ring Radiator Tweeter, I will throw them in the Dayton BR1 enclosures and start tuning actively! We'll see how it goes !!!
I think as I get older and experience more and more speakers, I will be able to sit down with a proper measuring system and start tuning and dialing in my room. (I don't have a room yet 🙂 )
untill then I will probably just build lots of kits, and buy finished speakers. For black Friday I picked up a pair of the new Triangle Borea BR08. And I grabbed some half price deals on Tymphany 830874 6-1/2" PPB Cone HDS Woofers at Parts express. Along with the Tymphany XT25TG30-04 1" Dual Ring Radiator Tweeter, I will throw them in the Dayton BR1 enclosures and start tuning actively! We'll see how it goes !!!
It's not as though you can sit in your chair and aim at straight lines. EQing is more delicate than that and takes time. It also tends to require acoustic modifications along the way.
You could use the auto generate feature of REW to do voicing or room eq....I never noticed anything complicated about making adjustments on the eq manually...
I won't drag it on, but maybe Illnasty will be turned on to this technology and improve his 3 way design?
With REW, I can take a measurement, have the software either calculate a curve to impose onto the existing FR, to create a new target curve....or I can manipulate the measured curve manually and create my own curve to impose on the existing FR to try and achieve a new curve...either way measure and repeat....
If you only had a parametric (with enough control points and resolution) and a mic you could trial and error your way into a nice and flat curve as long as you don't start with a crazy Fr to begin with, pretty easy....One easy way is to play white noise through the system and tweak your eq while watching a real time analyzer...there are multiple ways...
Theres little best practice/rule of thumb type info littered everywhere....
Choosing the types of cross overs and where is more complicated than Voicing/RoomCorrection if you ask me...
With REW, I can take a measurement, have the software either calculate a curve to impose onto the existing FR, to create a new target curve....or I can manipulate the measured curve manually and create my own curve to impose on the existing FR to try and achieve a new curve...either way measure and repeat....
If you only had a parametric (with enough control points and resolution) and a mic you could trial and error your way into a nice and flat curve as long as you don't start with a crazy Fr to begin with, pretty easy....One easy way is to play white noise through the system and tweak your eq while watching a real time analyzer...there are multiple ways...
Theres little best practice/rule of thumb type info littered everywhere....
Choosing the types of cross overs and where is more complicated than Voicing/RoomCorrection if you ask me...
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Seeing from the OP's point of view helps, believe it or not. Given the direction he plans on going about his quest, I would begin with becoming comfortable with passive crossovers. The best way to accomplish this is to amass a good collection of capacitors and coils. A handful of various values of L-pads is also priceless. It's hands-on, and you can immediately notice the direct effects of your tinkering. Sometimes the change is very obvious, other times it's more subtle.
There are a jillion million myths about what's better than what regarding component selection and blending of sound. Not gonna go there. The tinkering and the ear dyno results help develop critical listening and form a deeper understanding of the factors and theory behind the scenes. No longer will the sonic difference between a $2 cap and a $20 cap of the same value be a mystery, and the like.
After a while, a decent microphone and some instrument to interpret its response can help. I usually discourage using one at first, for the mere fact that they can and do lie. Besides the human and real world factors (rigging, setup, placement, etc.), what pops up on the readout is only a single piece of the puzzle. Such is the way of paying for RTA time in the car audio realm. Mister big boom goes in and has his system adjusted for sound quality at the local dealer. The very same day, he's back complaining about anemic bass response. Go figure. First find out what your ears like, then measure it.
The world did just fine in the audio domain for nearly a century before computers took over. They help, but they are not absolutely necessary.
There are a jillion million myths about what's better than what regarding component selection and blending of sound. Not gonna go there. The tinkering and the ear dyno results help develop critical listening and form a deeper understanding of the factors and theory behind the scenes. No longer will the sonic difference between a $2 cap and a $20 cap of the same value be a mystery, and the like.
After a while, a decent microphone and some instrument to interpret its response can help. I usually discourage using one at first, for the mere fact that they can and do lie. Besides the human and real world factors (rigging, setup, placement, etc.), what pops up on the readout is only a single piece of the puzzle. Such is the way of paying for RTA time in the car audio realm. Mister big boom goes in and has his system adjusted for sound quality at the local dealer. The very same day, he's back complaining about anemic bass response. Go figure. First find out what your ears like, then measure it.
The world did just fine in the audio domain for nearly a century before computers took over. They help, but they are not absolutely necessary.
Camplo,
Sounds a little Bose to me...
Take a mediocre set of drivers, put the dsp and eq to them, and presto change-o, perfect sound! Just always use this equipment and you're good to go furr evverr!
Sounds a little Bose to me...
Take a mediocre set of drivers, put the dsp and eq to them, and presto change-o, perfect sound! Just always use this equipment and you're good to go furr evverr!
Good stuff guys keep it comin!
I definitely will try to tune this next Tymphany build with my ears first. If I can't seem to get it I will have to bite the bullet and learn all the software for measurements! (the Software is really what got my frustrated and turned off about tuning) Is there any super easy to use measurement software out there???
I definitely will try to tune this next Tymphany build with my ears first. If I can't seem to get it I will have to bite the bullet and learn all the software for measurements! (the Software is really what got my frustrated and turned off about tuning) Is there any super easy to use measurement software out there???