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I built the baffles already
:/
If you compare character on the planar tranceduser and let's say a flex unit.
What would give the most warm characteristics?
I like the flexunit because of its power handling and frequency range plus it seems linear. Also a very reasonable price.
I built the baffles already
:/
If you compare character on the planar tranceduser and let's say a flex unit.
What would give the most warm characteristics?
I like the flexunit because of its power handling and frequency range plus it seems linear. Also a very reasonable price.
Hi,
Warm character is also related to the whole spl curve shape and the room (very reflective rooms are fatiguing like a kitchen with hard floor.
If the baffle step is too much important the recess below 1000 hz to the lows where the room is not ruling yet (often around 200 hz) vs what is above 1000 hz with a higher spl. Same problem.
Flat curve imho is not warm either. Try to draw a curve from 200 hz to 12 hz or more according your candles number with 5 db to 8 db constant diving between the two. It will sound warmer than a flat and less fatiguing. Also some frequencies are anti warm when peaky...500 to 800 hz...5500 to 7000 hz...bumps aound 2.7 k hz to 4 k hz...at least for my ears and room which is very damped...I mean the last.
As for the room, if the tweeter is powerfull off axis in a reflective or too little area that could be a little too hot for some ears. But according your room size of 30 m2 certainly some wood floor in Sweeden and some furnitutes it should be ok. Speakers positioning is also important and you has often to tilt in or out each tower to find the correct equilibrium according the room that are never symetric dues to the wall with apertures and furnitures. But a correct design will be less sensitive to that.
After there are refinments like constant directivity and so on that ask some experinece I have not by the way...but as you diy you should consider that as well and marriage between mid and tweeter is VERY important (for the soundstage a lot). But as said bafle and coffin shape matters a lit as well (try to look for all the sketches made by Linesources member).
In your shoes i will go with what you say for something like the Skans driver and the Peereless or ScanSpeak ring radiator bullet 25xt something. Of course the open back Neo 10 with the correct tweetet above has some advantage due to the dipole... back wall should be not flat and hard surfaces like glass or concrete... you can do open with a damping in between a la cardioid as well. The sb26stac ScottG advised to me is very good above 2,5 k and will marry certainly fine with a 5" skaaning as the classic Peereless tweeter remade by Scan Speak which has a little dip towards 7k hz plus well made design that make it easy and good listening...all that tweeters are cheap either and permitt to putt the monney on the mid.
Warm character is also related to the whole spl curve shape and the room (very reflective rooms are fatiguing like a kitchen with hard floor.
If the baffle step is too much important the recess below 1000 hz to the lows where the room is not ruling yet (often around 200 hz) vs what is above 1000 hz with a higher spl. Same problem.
Flat curve imho is not warm either. Try to draw a curve from 200 hz to 12 hz or more according your candles number with 5 db to 8 db constant diving between the two. It will sound warmer than a flat and less fatiguing. Also some frequencies are anti warm when peaky...500 to 800 hz...5500 to 7000 hz...bumps aound 2.7 k hz to 4 k hz...at least for my ears and room which is very damped...I mean the last.
As for the room, if the tweeter is powerfull off axis in a reflective or too little area that could be a little too hot for some ears. But according your room size of 30 m2 certainly some wood floor in Sweeden and some furnitutes it should be ok. Speakers positioning is also important and you has often to tilt in or out each tower to find the correct equilibrium according the room that are never symetric dues to the wall with apertures and furnitures. But a correct design will be less sensitive to that.
After there are refinments like constant directivity and so on that ask some experinece I have not by the way...but as you diy you should consider that as well and marriage between mid and tweeter is VERY important (for the soundstage a lot). But as said bafle and coffin shape matters a lit as well (try to look for all the sketches made by Linesources member).
In your shoes i will go with what you say for something like the Skans driver and the Peereless or ScanSpeak ring radiator bullet 25xt something. Of course the open back Neo 10 with the correct tweetet above has some advantage due to the dipole... back wall should be not flat and hard surfaces like glass or concrete... you can do open with a damping in between a la cardioid as well. The sb26stac ScottG advised to me is very good above 2,5 k and will marry certainly fine with a 5" skaaning as the classic Peereless tweeter remade by Scan Speak which has a little dip towards 7k hz plus well made design that make it easy and good listening...all that tweeters are cheap either and permitt to putt the monney on the mid.
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Hi!
I will use them in my bigger bathroom downstairs, they are very loud so we will see how to make a nice system out of them, probably a lttle more left overs to puzzle together=)
It seems i needed to EG them very much up in the higher frequencies to even be linear, bad horns maybe?
I will use them in my bigger bathroom downstairs, they are very loud so we will see how to make a nice system out of them, probably a lttle more left overs to puzzle together=)
It seems i needed to EG them very much up in the higher frequencies to even be linear, bad horns maybe?
Great advice on EQ, i will try it out right away.
Got the AMT already and te woofers are on the way=)
Question is now planar tranducer?
4" midrange with composite cone?
Bigger midrange for a softer sound? I know most people in here would say 8" is way too much but....
Got the AMT already and te woofers are on the way=)
Question is now planar tranducer?
4" midrange with composite cone?
Bigger midrange for a softer sound? I know most people in here would say 8" is way too much but....
Anyone tried the Dayton Audio Epique E160CF-8 Bass-midwoofer?
The scanspeak and and SEAS mentioned seems a little short in frequency range
The planar transducer can be purchased in china pretty cheap=)
maybe worth at least a try
The scanspeak and and SEAS mentioned seems a little short in frequency range
The planar transducer can be purchased in china pretty cheap=)
maybe worth at least a try
My main Loudspeaker is a 5.1/4 aluminium from the other AE -Acoustic Energy- designer Phil Jones, -https://airpulsepro.com/about - Phil Jones Bass Speaker Design: Klippel Part 1 - YouTube - Phil Jones Bass: Our mission is to bring musicians around the world revolutionary products that deliver performance, reliability, and quality . Nice guy I emailed some years ago.
Oopps...
My midrange is an Acoustic Energy too.... Got those names mixed up Acoustic Energy Reference 1 | The Ear
It apparently is a driver made from a mix from Vifa, Scanspeak and maybe something else. Ulrik ones told me, but cant remember now... we had a few beers that night
I might have a great result using a Seas or SB metal driver too.... but I got these for a set of old Morel tweeters
The Flexunit.
Plus it would allow you a bit more freq. "tailoring" (slight boost on its low end of the pass-band) to "goose" that result a bit.
It won't be as clear though.
You could do the midrange's (in their own box's) above the cabinets.. It would incur far more pressure loss (because of the small size), but the Flexunits with a suitable high-pass filter shouldn't have a problem with that.
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If i use the flexunits i could slso put them in the same cabinet as the15 inch driver?
No separate enclosure?
I can just put on aluminium plate that covers the whole that i made already and make a round hole in it for a flexunit
The aluminium plate can also be extended over the baffle so there could be a whole for the amt.
No separate enclosure?
I can just put on aluminium plate that covers the whole that i made already and make a round hole in it for a flexunit
The aluminium plate can also be extended over the baffle so there could be a whole for the amt.
The Flexunit.
Plus it would allow you a bit more freq. "tailoring" (slight boost on its low end of the pass-band) to "goose" that result a bit.
It won't be as clear though.
If i make a box on top of the speaker with also would b a good option, what size would you suggest for a flexi unit?
Mine is the bas/midrange not the dedicated midrang - and black dustcap.Hey tje tweeter in your AE link is the peereless scanspeak xt25G clone in a wave guide
And I got the DXT too... Just the plastic one from Seas.
As far as the baffle shape, about as small as you can get it - so not much larger than the 4" Flexunit driver depending on how much volume you need for your cabinet. (..again, see that picture with the planar ribbon.)
Cabinet volume ..depends on what you want to do to "tailor" the sound.
I tend to get best depth reproduction with a deep cabinet and a bass reflex port (port to rear of loudspeaker for midrange drivers), with the port tuned much lower in freq. (at least 2 octaves) than the high-pass filter. ex. 300 Hz high-pass would be 75 Hz minimum tuning freq. (..and this also depends on the volume of the cabinet). (..I look for specific results, but I don't have time to do this at the moment - maybe I can get to that late today or tomorrow.)
For a quick and easy look at that, try WinISD:
WinISD - Linearteam
..and here is a starting-point for using it (input the parameters from the Flexunit web-page for that driver):
How to Use WinISD - Input a New Driver - YouTube
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I would never use a reflex loaded cabinet for a midrange. Easily complicates things and I dont know how. But I can just walk into a room - like at an exibition - and almost every time, point out which speakers that use a ported cabinet. But that's just me
And if it's already a goal to use DSP. Then I would not pay the higher price for flexunits. So many great drivers for way less. I would focus my money and time on better cabinets, layout and filter/DSP/measurements.
Also - I find the plastic drivers to be less good for midrange. I prefer alu.
And if it's already a goal to use DSP. Then I would not pay the higher price for flexunits. So many great drivers for way less. I would focus my money and time on better cabinets, layout and filter/DSP/measurements.
Also - I find the plastic drivers to be less good for midrange. I prefer alu.
How about if i put a sealed back cap on it inside the big baffle?
i suppose putting One mid range river on each side of the Tweeter is a very bad idea?
I will check out the program to calculate that you suggested also.
A small sealed box on top of the speaker would be just fine also.
Overlooking all the cone drivers and the planar transduser, comparing
i suppose putting One mid range river on each side of the Tweeter is a very bad idea?
I will check out the program to calculate that you suggested also.
A small sealed box on top of the speaker would be just fine also.
Overlooking all the cone drivers and the planar transduser, comparing
I would never use a reflex loaded cabinet for a midrange. Easily complicates things and I dont know how. But I can just walk into a room - like at an exibition - and almost every time, point out which speakers that use a ported cabinet. But that's just me
And if it's already a goal to use DSP. Then I would not pay the higher price for flexunits. So many great drivers for way less. I would focus my money and time on better cabinets, layout and filter/DSP/measurements.
Also - I find the plastic drivers to be less good for midrange. I prefer alu.
2 octaves removed from the pass-band is where Scott G talked about tuning the port. I don't see any problem with that at all.
And since I am here posting, which I seldom do anymore, let me say there's no such device known as the "ultimate mid-range driver". It's too simple of a concept and the first debate will be to define what frequency range constitutes "mid-range". Every speaker driver and speaker system is a compromise, thus, I tend to simply ask, "What is it that you are trying to accomplish?"
Good luck, over & out.
