Which drivers are you going to use: new units of the originals, or different ones? Paul Carmody designed the "Dayton III Refried" using the DC160s but the Dayton RS28 tweeter instead of the DC28. Unfortunately, the tweeters are NLA.
Geoff
Geoff
Amazon.com: Diymore TPA3116DA DC 12V 24V 100W Mono Channel Digital Power Audio Amplifier Board TPA3116D2 Large Capacity Board: Industrial & Scientific
I went with 4 of these boards and a couple of LRS-150-24 Meanwell PSUs
I have the parts ordered to do the soft start circuit.
I went with 4 of these boards and a couple of LRS-150-24 Meanwell PSUs
I have the parts ordered to do the soft start circuit.
I just got the original drivers DC160 and DC28F.
If your DC28Fs are 20 years old, my understanding is that the tweeters have changed a little over the years: the model number is the same, but the performance is said to be better.
Dayton DC28F-8 Tweeter (that's from 2006)
Unfortunately, I don't know how, or if, this would affect your crossover: it might just mean it's easier to work with and sounds better.
Maybe other members might have some ideas? Sorry to complicate things!
Geoff
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I don't have the option of using the old drivers. They are long gone... Destroyed in a car audio project ten years ago.
Understood, but before you make the replacement crossover it might be worth asking Forum members who have built this whether they have any ideas about the updated tweeter.
However, I would think that any changes to the DC28F would be subtle and you could use the original crossover without any issues.
Geoff
However, I would think that any changes to the DC28F would be subtle and you could use the original crossover without any issues.
Geoff
I'll run a frequency sweep when Im done. Ive actually been itching to use the Dayton DSPB-K in a project. So, if I need to modify the crossover, sounds like a perfect use...
I assume you'll be using speaker grilles - that sticky dome is a right dust magnet!
The DC28F has its detractors, but at least in the Tritrix design, I like the sound, which is indeed smooth.
Geoff
The DC28F has its detractors, but at least in the Tritrix design, I like the sound, which is indeed smooth.
Geoff
Nice project, I'm curious to see how it turns out. I have my DIII's doing home theater duty at the moment. I haven't used them much in recent years but they're still kicking.
Finished the update. I forgot to get pics of the inside while they were open. I will try to get those tomorrow.
I used a TPA3116D2 mono amp and a mean well LRS-150-24 power supply for each of them. Added a touch button on the top for quick power on/off. I have yet to find a suitable bluetooth TWS module for them. They are running on wires right now. I have a pair of Tinysine TWS modules on their way from china. But, they are taking their sweet time.
I got bored last week and decided to build a subwoofer to fill in below 50 hz. I grabbed a Dayton RSS210HF-4 I had left over from another project and designed a bass reflex enclosure for it. 1.7sqft and a single 3"x 19" port.
This little sub digs DEEP. It extends well below 20hz. It has been a great addition. I'll post more about the sub in another thread when I get a little time.

I used a TPA3116D2 mono amp and a mean well LRS-150-24 power supply for each of them. Added a touch button on the top for quick power on/off. I have yet to find a suitable bluetooth TWS module for them. They are running on wires right now. I have a pair of Tinysine TWS modules on their way from china. But, they are taking their sweet time.
I got bored last week and decided to build a subwoofer to fill in below 50 hz. I grabbed a Dayton RSS210HF-4 I had left over from another project and designed a bass reflex enclosure for it. 1.7sqft and a single 3"x 19" port.
This little sub digs DEEP. It extends well below 20hz. It has been a great addition. I'll post more about the sub in another thread when I get a little time.


It could use a little work in the low end. But the highs are smooth as "Silkie"
whats it look like unsmoothed?
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