Hey Guys!
I need your input on this project with active crossover. See pictures.
The three way box will contain:
tweeter: Scan Speak 9700 (already got)
mid: LPKM 130/50 / 120TT 2" (already got)
midbass: Scan Speak 8542 6.5 inch (planning to buy)
In the back of the 3way box I will put a bass reflex opening for letting the membrane move more freely (not in the pictures yet). The walls will be 21mm thick and the volume around 21L. Both baffles are 260cm wide.
(The 2 basstowers is at 45L and already done and have an 8" driver with very nice "boom capacity").
I also have found 2 pcs of 4-channel amps and a OpenDRC DA-8 for digital crossover with built in DAC's, so most parts is set and done except the 3-way box and the mid bass. Any thoughts?
Cheers!
I need your input on this project with active crossover. See pictures.
The three way box will contain:
tweeter: Scan Speak 9700 (already got)
mid: LPKM 130/50 / 120TT 2" (already got)
midbass: Scan Speak 8542 6.5 inch (planning to buy)
In the back of the 3way box I will put a bass reflex opening for letting the membrane move more freely (not in the pictures yet). The walls will be 21mm thick and the volume around 21L. Both baffles are 260cm wide.
(The 2 basstowers is at 45L and already done and have an 8" driver with very nice "boom capacity").
I also have found 2 pcs of 4-channel amps and a OpenDRC DA-8 for digital crossover with built in DAC's, so most parts is set and done except the 3-way box and the mid bass. Any thoughts?
Cheers!
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Best to keep the midbass box sealed to minimize sources of group delay.
Interresting I have never heard of that only "the distance of the different coils" in the subject. So the sound may bounce on the back wall? Should a port be better on the front?
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I'm not sure I understand why the 6.5" driver needs to be there.
An 8" should get up to meet a 3" dome just fine. Adding an extra driver would IMO just mean additional headaches in getting the whole thing to sound good.
Chris
An 8" should get up to meet a 3" dome just fine. Adding an extra driver would IMO just mean additional headaches in getting the whole thing to sound good.
Chris
I'm not sure I understand why the 6.5" driver needs to be there.
An 8" should get up to meet a 3" dome just fine. Adding an extra driver would IMO just mean additional headaches in getting the whole thing to sound good.
We choose to go to the Moon in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard. 😀
The 2" driver sounds good down to 850Hz in a present setup. The idea was to limit the intermodulation on the bass cone and what i can tell it should start off at 500Hz. Maybe a Scan Speak 15W/4434G00 5.5" will do good in a 3way?
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If you are going to make a change, I would move to a bigger woofer. In your current concept, the 8 inch woofer is the weakest link. Moving to a 10 inch would be better, and a 12 or pair of 8's would be better still.
If you are going to make a change, I would move to a bigger woofer. In your current concept, the 8 inch woofer is the weakest link. Moving to a 10 inch would be better, and a 12 or pair of 8's would be better still.
Counted the bass towers today and they were two, but two 10's would be an intressting upgrade.
As it is now the last Hz i can get from them is 36 in this test:
Online Tone Generator - generate pure tones of any frequency
That is the same tone generator I use the most; there are others out there also that are very useful.
I did a tower literally decades ago with dual 10 in. woofers; these were poly' cone from the Peerless CC line. Some of the cleanest and best sounding bass of any of my designs I think ever. Box tuning was 23 Hz and so the 27.5 Hz low A of the piano came through with full authority and "realism".
I did a tower literally decades ago with dual 10 in. woofers; these were poly' cone from the Peerless CC line. Some of the cleanest and best sounding bass of any of my designs I think ever. Box tuning was 23 Hz and so the 27.5 Hz low A of the piano came through with full authority and "realism".
If you are going to make a change, I would move to a bigger woofer. In your current concept, the 8 inch woofer is the weakest link. Moving to a 10 inch would be better, and a 12 or pair of 8's would be better still.
Very good point.
And if you make that box with woofer square and chubby, you can place your 3way box on top of it and save yourself work to make the stand. Plus it saves floor space too.
yes... it is surprising how much volume a cube can contain... and still be visually unobtrusive.
Thank's guys!
I now consider going for a ceramic midbass driver to get a more fast/dynamic sound.
(100 - 800Hz). Accuton bass drivers may be the best i've heard (but to expensive).
SB17CAC35
SB Acoustics SB17CAC35-8 6" ceramic woofer
The Scan Speak one
ScanSpeak Classic 18W/8542-10 7" Mid Woofer Paper Cone
I now consider going for a ceramic midbass driver to get a more fast/dynamic sound.
(100 - 800Hz). Accuton bass drivers may be the best i've heard (but to expensive).
SB17CAC35
SB Acoustics SB17CAC35-8 6" ceramic woofer
The Scan Speak one
ScanSpeak Classic 18W/8542-10 7" Mid Woofer Paper Cone
Great; keep us up to date on progress. My 3 1/2 way might now be considered a 4 way, 4 1/2 way or even 5 way. Crazy? Yep; a little...not yet finished though; still tweaking and fine tuning; may end up with the original idea of 3 1/2 way YET if I can get a good tonal balance with the ever important articulation, resolution and "inner-detail" I so desperately want...
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