I can only offer a real-world, non-technical answer. Most amps manufactured in the last 20 years know their limitations. If you attempt to push too much power into too low a resistance they will temporarily down tools, take a moment, and suggest you sort your life out.
The moment a passive crossover is in play the impedance of the driver becomes irrelevant. If you want to safely want to run your subs at full volume, in parallel, a coil offers more effective and robust resistance than a resistor.
The moment a passive crossover is in play the impedance of the driver becomes irrelevant. If you want to safely want to run your subs at full volume, in parallel, a coil offers more effective and robust resistance than a resistor.
If you have an 8 ohm speaker and you are putting a 4 ohm woofer in parallel with it, you can expect to have trouble when your receiver is only rated at 6 ohms minimum. You would normally calculate the nominal parallel speaker impedance to be (1/ (1/8+1/4))=2.7 ohms. Have you looked a using the Bi amp speaker terminals to give the passive subs their own amplifier channel? This has a much better chance of working without overloading the amplifier.
Download the manual if you don’t have a printed copy and figure out what is possible for those biamp terminals.
Thanks a lot! Looks like using the spare channels would be the safest and the most workable solution.🙂
I can only offer a real-world, non-technical answer. Most amps manufactured in the last 20 years know their limitations. If you attempt to push too much power into too low a resistance they will temporarily down tools, take a moment, and suggest you sort your life out.
The moment a passive crossover is in play the impedance of the driver becomes irrelevant. If you want to safely want to run your subs at full volume, in parallel, a coil offers more effective and robust resistance than a resistor.
Point noted. Thanks for the clarification.
Not sure about TOTAL load because I don´t know if you are connecting something else to those amp terminals.After subtracting that,it is abt 6 ohms. Would it then be correct to assume that the total load is ard 6 ohms that the amp will see?
But that particular speaker, on its own, YES can be considered a nominal 8 ohm speaker.