nope
ZM is dealing strictly with Babelfishes; I'm leaving to others to deal with strict cloning adventures
there is nuttin' to Babelfish with F4, if we discount Babelfish M25 adventure
though, for some time no Sissy and no Babelfish M25, as long it needs to either get new quantity of ACS723-5 or devise new biasing scheme
good morning friends, I would just like to start ordering some pieces 😀
well, what about the psu board?
this
Universal Power Supply – diyAudio Store
or this?
Netzteil PCB fur DIY First Watt Class A Endstufen! | eBay
do you have a reference power transformer builder ? (it's going to be long, i know)
oh yes, i'd like to add a protection circuit, and two vu meters on the front 😀
suggestions ?
thanks!
Nuvotem Talema or Avel Lindberg are good transformers at a reasonable price.
If you were in the USA then I would suggest some others.
If you were in the USA then I would suggest some others.
The diyaudio psu board is good.
As a general rule I only buy pcbs from diyaudio members or the diyaudio store.
Edit: You could check the group buy forum too
As a general rule I only buy pcbs from diyaudio members or the diyaudio store.
Edit: You could check the group buy forum too
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https://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa276/aeroplane_album/F5PSUschematic.jpg
in the psu picture, i don't understand those 35A/200V coming out the rectifiter bridge?
the power transformer only has 2x 18V outlets no?
so in the end, what values do i need to obtain for rails voltage?
i'm really considering two monoblocks
Buy 2 x 250VA or 2 x 300VA transformers for mono blocks
With 18 V secondaries
Magnetic and electrostatic shielding is definitely worth getting.
With 18 V secondaries
Magnetic and electrostatic shielding is definitely worth getting.
That means the bridge rectifiers used are rated to handle 35A and 200V.
It's wise to use parts that are rated above what you need, for long term reliability.
ok, didn't figure out was bridge rating...
now have to find some cheaper cases... 150€ each is a no-no... china'S calling
it is not exactly Lego ...... you need to have at least half of idea what you're doing ..... considering both cost of parts ( you can easily transfer in smoke ) and -most importantly - lethal voltages at mains side of thing
are you sure that you're ready - maybe better to invest some time in reading, then using new knowledge while ordering parts and later in building it ?
good place to start : FIRST WATT
are you sure that you're ready - maybe better to invest some time in reading, then using new knowledge while ordering parts and later in building it ?
good place to start : FIRST WATT
My friend, I repair tube radios since many years now, and sporadically build some tube equipment... It's just my first time with transistors
I'm curious why you're sticking to 4312 for Mozart, and I think the answer would clarify your amp needs!
Because these I have, and my wife won't let me buy other speakers...
Actually, for mozart, I use a grundig box professional 550, which are more airy, bit seriously lacking bass
If they are in the same room, how about 4312 as a subwoofer that supports Grundig? For that purpose, Class-D should be just fine for woofers, and use any fancy schmancy amp for Grundig.
