Dear All,
I'm building an active 3-way stereo (boxes). Looking for 6 amps to drive them directly.
- Do you have any recommended good sounding boards for bass, mid and tweeters ? I mean chips, boards, seller.. which seem to be (or already heard) good designs.
- Would you use Class D everywhere, even for tweeters, or rather use Class AB Mosfet there ? (Both okay, just asking).
- I read about TPA3116 based boards. Might they be good for the 2 upper ways ? (Sound quality acceptable?)
- Any recommended ~400W+ boards for driving the woofers, or any of these aliexpress class D-s should do the trick ?
Thank you !!
I'm building an active 3-way stereo (boxes). Looking for 6 amps to drive them directly.
- Do you have any recommended good sounding boards for bass, mid and tweeters ? I mean chips, boards, seller.. which seem to be (or already heard) good designs.
- Would you use Class D everywhere, even for tweeters, or rather use Class AB Mosfet there ? (Both okay, just asking).
- I read about TPA3116 based boards. Might they be good for the 2 upper ways ? (Sound quality acceptable?)
- Any recommended ~400W+ boards for driving the woofers, or any of these aliexpress class D-s should do the trick ?
Thank you !!
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Hello,
What is the total budget?
Hi denbret, thanks for jumping in. For the amp modules I try to stay as cheap as possible, cost will be weighted onto the bass amps I think. $200-250 maybe ? Modules only, no PSU, case, whatsoever.
The system is 8 Ohms nominal but the old woofers are 4 Ohms each, previously running in series which I'm not a big fan of, for woofers at least. Thinking about driving them independently with their own amp modules and adjusting gains later, so I might end up with 8 amp modules from aliexpress/eBay.
Not sure if all Class-D is okay or you would rather take Mosfet Class AB for the tweeters.
I have no information about which modules/chips are goot at all. For mid/tweeter TPA3116D2 modules configured at around 50W/8Ohms seem to be recommended, but not sure... I better ask here. For woofers ? No idea.
- Noname woofers, 1 is rated for 200W but I assume that's either musical or absolute, so I count with 100W RMS. No fancy stuff. This makes then 2x100W RMS / side.

Cia Vortex,
Is your amp for party or your home theater,boom box.??
TPA3116 for tweeter/mid is cheap and fine. my TPA3116 are not so fine sounding as my TPA325x amps.
soi would go for 3e boards, tpa3255 are fine if you want to have more power i guess. each board about 80 euros so you are in your budget.
chris
Is your amp for party or your home theater,boom box.??
TPA3116 for tweeter/mid is cheap and fine. my TPA3116 are not so fine sounding as my TPA325x amps.
soi would go for 3e boards, tpa3255 are fine if you want to have more power i guess. each board about 80 euros so you are in your budget.
chris
Hi Chris,
2x tall active-3-way stereo for the kitchen + living room combo in a flat. Close to the TV (and wall and fridge etc) 🙄 30mm plywood, no parallel walls. Woofers on the bottom, in the side panels, midrange + tweeter facing front of course. Kind of an all-eater, tv shows, Netflix, online radio for cooking, Deezer/Spotify,.. whatever you can imagine. Of course real movies are also benefiting from a good stereo instead of the 2 built-in little toys in the TV itself.
This was all started out as a 'let's do cheapo' project with my old 20+ yrs old drivers, but then wife increased price to have the boxes painted well, like a furniture, make it beautiful.. box alone costs now (finished) ca. $500 and meanwhile I also had to recognize I can't use my old 8-Ohms midranges, neither my old 8-Ohms tweeters (one is missing anyway lol), so I kept the bass drivers for a quick run and give them a chance to perform, midranges and tweeters are new, just arrived last week.
Still not a very expensive setup, especially now I try to stay calm 🙂 so ... well. That's it. I still can make the boxes vented and replace the bass drivers if needed, to up-to-date new ones (with a little help from WinISD). For the start now, these are closed boxes, so no subsonics. Nevertheless, a good healthy 300-500W for the bottom cannot harm I think. Not aiming for Hypex/ICE modules, just wanted to hear your opinion what else is out there to consider..
2x tall active-3-way stereo for the kitchen + living room combo in a flat. Close to the TV (and wall and fridge etc) 🙄 30mm plywood, no parallel walls. Woofers on the bottom, in the side panels, midrange + tweeter facing front of course. Kind of an all-eater, tv shows, Netflix, online radio for cooking, Deezer/Spotify,.. whatever you can imagine. Of course real movies are also benefiting from a good stereo instead of the 2 built-in little toys in the TV itself.
This was all started out as a 'let's do cheapo' project with my old 20+ yrs old drivers, but then wife increased price to have the boxes painted well, like a furniture, make it beautiful.. box alone costs now (finished) ca. $500 and meanwhile I also had to recognize I can't use my old 8-Ohms midranges, neither my old 8-Ohms tweeters (one is missing anyway lol), so I kept the bass drivers for a quick run and give them a chance to perform, midranges and tweeters are new, just arrived last week.
Still not a very expensive setup, especially now I try to stay calm 🙂 so ... well. That's it. I still can make the boxes vented and replace the bass drivers if needed, to up-to-date new ones (with a little help from WinISD). For the start now, these are closed boxes, so no subsonics. Nevertheless, a good healthy 300-500W for the bottom cannot harm I think. Not aiming for Hypex/ICE modules, just wanted to hear your opinion what else is out there to consider..