Hello,
I am making an aluminium amplifier case and i am havign trouble mounting the speaker terminals. I am afraid that the back panel on which I am mounting the terminals might short them together. This is a picture of the cheap terminals I am using can you tell me between witch number is the case supposed to go so that its isolated from the terminal?
I am making an aluminium amplifier case and i am havign trouble mounting the speaker terminals. I am afraid that the back panel on which I am mounting the terminals might short them together. This is a picture of the cheap terminals I am using can you tell me between witch number is the case supposed to go so that its isolated from the terminal?
Not suited for conductive panels
Here is few styles to chose from
Gold Dual Binding Post Banana Jack
Parts Express Gold Plated Binding Post Banana Jack Pair
Dayton Audio BPP-SN Premium Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Satin Nickel
WBT 0763R Midline Binding Post Banana Jack Red
Here is few styles to chose from
Gold Dual Binding Post Banana Jack
Parts Express Gold Plated Binding Post Banana Jack Pair
Dayton Audio BPP-SN Premium Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Satin Nickel
WBT 0763R Midline Binding Post Banana Jack Red
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Uhm, actually between 6 and 7, Kyrk. If you unscrew the nuts and take off the connector lug you will be able to lift off the two plastic halves which would fit on either side of your alu panel. There should be a "step" which fits partially through the hole that will insulate the conductor from the panel. Preferably use a stepped drill to get as close as possible to the correct size, and then use a round file if necessary to get the two pieces to fit.
Kevin
Kevin
Thank you. What is their difference? They dont have any conductive parts touching the mounting panel and they use the plastic parts to insulate themselves from the panel?
My first instinct was sandwiching the metal panel between plastic parts 6 and 7, so go ahead as ferret says.
Hm, In that case wouldnt the "screw" parts of the post come in direct contact eith the metal case? Moreover, i tought of making a bigger hole to fit the "screw" part and using the clamping force to secure the terminal
There will be a plastic flange with a sleeve on the metal shaft. Do not attempt to centre it on the hole and just use the clamping action to keep it away from the conductive material. That's asking for disaster.
That is exactly it. Probably part 7 has a lip that will fit from the outside to the inside, though often are not more than 2 mm long. I normally put a snugly fitting piece of heatshrink over the conductive pillar where it fits through the panel.
Kevin
I didn't actually mean simply to sandwich - there should be a lip which passes through the metal as ferret said.
Yep like this. Here you can see that the lip goes into the alu/steel panel and the loose part connects on the inside with a washer and nut to clamp the assembly together. The lug then has the wire soldered on, fits onto the post inside and the second nut fastens that against the inner one.
Kevin
Kevin
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Indeed. The hole in the panel must be just large enough for the sleeve on the inner plastic fitting to fit snugly into it. Don't try and force it in. The one I have has the sleeve on the outer fitting.
Kevin
Kevin
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I'd second that: Between 6 and 7.
If there isn't a "step" to ensure the screw doesn't touch the chassis, you could use a shrinking tube (or a slice of rubber tube), approx. the thickness of the chassis...
the ACA build-guide has it explained visually: Amp Camp Amp V1.6 Build Guide - diyAudio Guides
You can use them but you need to drill the holes very exactly
Number 6 & 7 will separate and either of them have a Sleeve which will go through the hole..
It is very important that you drill very Clean holes without Braws..That's it..
then the Screw is protected by that part which is in the hole.. then fix it with one washer and one Nut place the Cable terminal on top of it and secured it with the second Washer & Nut.. No worries no short will happen if you make the job right.
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