Hi guys im fairly new to this subwoofer building scene thats why im on here for starters haha. I started a bit of research and found the Wbin to give off that big punchy chest feeling bass that i so desire and also has easy to access plans and drawings for a beginner builder like me.
I am open to suggestions if you guys would recommend something else but at the moment im thinking of an 18inch Wbin build for mainly outdoor uses like bush doofs etc(im a dj and and in need of a new subwoofer).
please any help would be much appreciated and I would also love to see any of your builds to give me some ideas for drivers and amps etc.
Thanks in advance.
I am open to suggestions if you guys would recommend something else but at the moment im thinking of an 18inch Wbin build for mainly outdoor uses like bush doofs etc(im a dj and and in need of a new subwoofer).
please any help would be much appreciated and I would also love to see any of your builds to give me some ideas for drivers and amps etc.
Thanks in advance.
Hi,
If I start building the sub-woofer today I would follow Brian spread sheet then export to Hornresp to further analyze, the disadvantage that you need to sim in Hornresp software which is an excellent tool for modeling speaker horn like the one you are plan to built. I am sure there are many plan available in the net just by searching. Hope it help you.
The Subwoofer DIY Page - Horn Folding
If I start building the sub-woofer today I would follow Brian spread sheet then export to Hornresp to further analyze, the disadvantage that you need to sim in Hornresp software which is an excellent tool for modeling speaker horn like the one you are plan to built. I am sure there are many plan available in the net just by searching. Hope it help you.
The Subwoofer DIY Page - Horn Folding
How many subwoofers are you going to build? Many public address subwoofer horns are designed to be used in stacks for correct performance.
I wouldn't bother with a W-bin, unless you want really strong 70-200Hz.
A decent 18" in a ported box would be a good place to start, or maybe something more exotic like a tapped horn if you need more output.
Chris
A decent 18" in a ported box would be a good place to start, or maybe something more exotic like a tapped horn if you need more output.
Chris
I use a W bin as a full ranger.
Top end is a little lacking but its good for low to medium frequencies.
The diagram below is a Fane W bin.
It will need scaling up for a 18 inch driver.
Its fun to build and you need to be accurate to stop gaps.
I got my local DIY shop to cut on their accurate vertical wood saw machine and it fit together like a glove.
I glued mine and screwed on the back. I covered sides with thin carpet.
The front and back were painted black.
The W bins do get a bit of bad press but they are very efficient as they match the driver to the air better.
Top end is a little lacking but its good for low to medium frequencies.
The diagram below is a Fane W bin.
It will need scaling up for a 18 inch driver.
Its fun to build and you need to be accurate to stop gaps.
I got my local DIY shop to cut on their accurate vertical wood saw machine and it fit together like a glove.
I glued mine and screwed on the back. I covered sides with thin carpet.
The front and back were painted black.
The W bins do get a bit of bad press but they are very efficient as they match the driver to the air better.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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I was in the same school of thought too. Until I modelled up a vented W-bin that was designed to go to 42 Hz (basically a copy of what my cousin had deployed in his night club). Jesus, Hornresp said the thing was going to be as loud as bombs, and he had two of them in his small club. It's no wonder that one of the nick-names for the place was "the Boom Boom Room".... 🙂
Of course, theoretically it will suffer from vent compression around 42 Hz at high SPL levels, but so would a vented box with the same size vents.
If I was going to design one from scratch, I'd approach it like a bandpass design - let the chamber and vents define the low frequency output, and then use the flare to pull up the passband response at higher bass frequencies.
Attachments
Hi NHall1.
Most folks would scoff at the idea but the most impressive single box forest party solution I've experienced was a crappy looking 15" homemade back loaded horn.
48" tall, 18"wide 24" deep. It really kicked @ss at techno and had good hit with d&b.
Most folks would scoff at the idea but the most impressive single box forest party solution I've experienced was a crappy looking 15" homemade back loaded horn.
48" tall, 18"wide 24" deep. It really kicked @ss at techno and had good hit with d&b.
When I was modelling w bins for home midbass (against la scalas and the EV Eliminator) the problem I found was getting correct drivers for them. There doesn't seem to be many modern drivers with the correct TS parameters for w bins.
Rob.
Rob.
Most TH designs (with the driver mounted near the mouth entrance) are basically RLHs with no driver chamber - the only physical difference being that the driver is mounted inside the mouth. Have a look at the "Hog Scoop" design, for example.
With this in mind, most of those RLH designs are based on old designs that used less capable drivers. A modern RLH design aimed at both low frequency output and wide bandwidth will likely end up looking a lot like a TH in terms of mouth size, as they're more 1/4 wave resonators, not bass horns.
Hi,
Interesting, did you built it? Any measurement? Don't mind to share? Thanks,
Sadly true, but not me! 🙂
Even better, make it reactance annulled; ditto W-bins same as the pioneers. Note open back boxes [scroll down for more views]: SHEARER HORN
GM
Hi Brian.
I had the first time chance to hear a danley set up at electric island in toronto this summer.
It was 6)- Th 118's with synergy tops as mains plus synergy infills.
They had the 20k danley amps as well.
It was most disappointing in terms of sound quality.
Bass was high passed way too high and the synergies were shouty with alot of sibalance.
I did not know that secondary danley system was going to be deployed, even if for a crowd capacity of only 2-300 outdoors in a 100 foot diameter forest clearing.
It had nowhere near the clarity or articulation of the main system which was a flown line array with ground arrayed subs, and i dislike line arrays.
Needless to say i have changed my focus on building tapped horns.
I had the first time chance to hear a danley set up at electric island in toronto this summer.
It was 6)- Th 118's with synergy tops as mains plus synergy infills.
They had the 20k danley amps as well.
It was most disappointing in terms of sound quality.
Bass was high passed way too high and the synergies were shouty with alot of sibalance.
I did not know that secondary danley system was going to be deployed, even if for a crowd capacity of only 2-300 outdoors in a 100 foot diameter forest clearing.
It had nowhere near the clarity or articulation of the main system which was a flown line array with ground arrayed subs, and i dislike line arrays.
Needless to say i have changed my focus on building tapped horns.
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I have built a few from with various speakers in them.
Fane 10-300WRMS, Fane 12-50WRMS and Fane 15-600WRMS.
I dont have any measurements but they all sound good.
The 600WRMS was just a bass cabinet but the other two were good for low to medium frequencies.
The Fane 12-50WRMS is actually a 1980 speaker.
In about 1976 the disco I worked for bought a pair of W bins.
They had tweeters in them for the top end to get full range.
scratch that, cant get the x18b in Aus right now, well any ferrite 18inchs.
any driver ideas for 18inch and theyll need to be neodymium.
any comments on this?
B&C 18SW115 is a lightweight very high power 18" woofer for speaker subwoofer systems. B&C 18SW115 Speakers - B&C 18" 18SW115 extreme power speaker for speaker subwoofer systems. B&C 18SW115 extreme high power speakers available now.
any driver ideas for 18inch and theyll need to be neodymium.
any comments on this?
B&C 18SW115 is a lightweight very high power 18" woofer for speaker subwoofer systems. B&C 18SW115 Speakers - B&C 18" 18SW115 extreme power speaker for speaker subwoofer systems. B&C 18SW115 extreme high power speakers available now.
Hi Nhall1,
If you are in Aus, you can get 18" Ferrite magnet sub drivers from here,
Speaker Drivers | Wagner Online Electronic Stores
cheers
If you are in Aus, you can get 18" Ferrite magnet sub drivers from here,
Speaker Drivers | Wagner Online Electronic Stores
cheers
Why no w-bin below 100hz ?
You aren’t gaining anything by using a horn.
It usually isn’t long enough, have enough mouth, and it doesn’t couple well with other bass horns.
This was a mobile system ?
Better to have a bunch of boxes with 1 or 2 subs in them than the weight of a wbin.
Even a tapped horn is an option, but you can usually run 2 drivers ported in a box as big as a th, and sharing the power. And the phase wrap and / or peak is tough to deal with.
But you are buying only 1 driver.
You aren’t gaining anything by using a horn.
It usually isn’t long enough, have enough mouth, and it doesn’t couple well with other bass horns.
This was a mobile system ?
Better to have a bunch of boxes with 1 or 2 subs in them than the weight of a wbin.
Even a tapped horn is an option, but you can usually run 2 drivers ported in a box as big as a th, and sharing the power. And the phase wrap and / or peak is tough to deal with.
But you are buying only 1 driver.