First, I would like to thank the members of the forum. I have benefited a lot from them. This is the first design I will make and I want to know whether everything is fine in my project or there are notes on it.
Project components
Drive ...
Peerless by Tymphany 835017 12 "Aluminum Cone XXLS Subwoofer
Amplifier ...
Dayton Audio SPA250DSP 250W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier with DSP
Tube ...
Precision Port 4 "Flared Speaker Cabinet Port Tube Kit
Bassbox Pro was developed In the attachment case pictures....
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Project components
Drive ...
Peerless by Tymphany 835017 12 "Aluminum Cone XXLS Subwoofer
Amplifier ...
Dayton Audio SPA250DSP 250W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier with DSP
Tube ...
Precision Port 4 "Flared Speaker Cabinet Port Tube Kit
Bassbox Pro was developed In the attachment case pictures....



Looks good, you have extra internal volume for port and driver. Alignment is hokay. Power hungry driver happy with +300 watts.
Thank you, I'm comfortable nowLooks good, you have extra internal volume for port and driver. Alignment is hokay. Power hungry driver happy with +300 watts.
I will start on the project.....:د:د
Thank you, I'm comfortable now
I will start on the project.....:د:د
What program is this you are using? I’m in the process of planning a box for my subs but want to make sure It will be correct lol. Currently have one planned out on sub box pro. Is that good to use?
https://www.google.com.sa/url?sa=t&...Topic11.html&usg=AOvVaw2x_nMKMdoIoYc6TYIEpxfaWhat program is this you are using? I’m in the process of planning a box for my subs but want to make sure It will be correct lol. Currently have one planned out on sub box pro. Is that good to use?
BassBox6 Pro Yes, it is good. There are various options.
https://www.ht-audio.com/pages/BassBoxProFAQs.html
when i recreate your modelling in winISD it does look ok. You got a little bump (like 1.5dB) at 40Hz and the port (both end flared) is shorter in this calculation (34.7cm or 13.66", i live in the metric world). But the response looks very similar. The only concern is the air velocity of the port, that is way to high (31 while it should be below 17). If this is to high, the port will chuff (make noises) when pushed hard. You can solve that by doubling the ports and make them longer (76.3cm or 30") or use a slot port (easier to bend in the box) in this box. I would use a bended slot in this kind of speaker with this driver.
Attachments
when i recreate your modelling in winISD it does look ok. You got a little bump (like 1.5dB) at 40Hz and the port (both end flared) is shorter in this calculation (34.7cm or 13.66", i live in the metric world). But the response looks very similar. The only concern is the air velocity of the port, that is way to high (31 while it should be below 17). If this is to high, the port will chuff (make noises) when pushed hard. You can solve that by doubling the ports and make them longer (76.3cm or 30") or use a slot port (easier to bend in the box) in this box. I would use a bended slot in this kind of speaker with this driver.
Okay
So if the box size is changed, it is better because I want one 4 inch port.
Pictures in the attachments...
Attachments
A 4 inch port is to small to use with this driver, it will cause chuffing as the diameter is to small to push all that air trough. You need a bigger one or multiple ports.
Since he's using flared ports it's probably "okay" to perhaps 24-26m/s.
Love slot ports, but if you use slot port with 90° bend, you should at the very least chamfer the internal edges or it might end up worse than using a slightly small flared round port.
Love slot ports, but if you use slot port with 90° bend, you should at the very least chamfer the internal edges or it might end up worse than using a slightly small flared round port.
Now I am jealous of Mr Waxx's suggestionThank you and for your interest I will make a new design
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