100V narrows it down a lot and this one remains: 930C1W8P2K-F Cornell Dubilier - CDE | Mouser Deutschland
A different voltage rating would work the same and make things easier than 18 week lead time an a 100 minimum.
For example these guys: B32676E6825K000 EPCOS / TDK | Mouser Deutschland
A different voltage rating would work the same and make things easier than 18 week lead time an a 100 minimum.
For example these guys: B32676E6825K000 EPCOS / TDK | Mouser Deutschland
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First, we need to define the concept of "best" sound.
Objectively, any decent MKP capacitor is as good as it gets.
Subjectively, there is almost no limit how much one can pay for a single capacitor, trying to chase the best.
Objectively, any decent MKP capacitor is as good as it gets.
Subjectively, there is almost no limit how much one can pay for a single capacitor, trying to chase the best.
There's only one way to answer this question and I don't think anyone else can really answer it for you. There are those who claim that they can hear differences between brands of caps. I can't, but who am I to say what they are experiencing? You need to find out for yourself.
Buy a cheap non-polarized electrolytic cap (should be under $1) and a $10 or $20 MKP or poly or foil cap (and maybe even a $2 or $3 poly cap) and switch them back and forth. If you cannot hear the difference, than about $1 is the most YOU should pay. If the more expensive cap sounds better, feel free to repeat the experiment with an even costlier cap. Don't worry about buying a needless cap. At least you will do this once and be done with the urge to buy $100 caps (plus you can always sell the high class cap to someone else with the same question).
Buy a cheap non-polarized electrolytic cap (should be under $1) and a $10 or $20 MKP or poly or foil cap (and maybe even a $2 or $3 poly cap) and switch them back and forth. If you cannot hear the difference, than about $1 is the most YOU should pay. If the more expensive cap sounds better, feel free to repeat the experiment with an even costlier cap. Don't worry about buying a needless cap. At least you will do this once and be done with the urge to buy $100 caps (plus you can always sell the high class cap to someone else with the same question).
Polypropylene is by far the best commonly available material out there (Teflon is better yet but good luck finding some). There is some discussion about whether higher voltage capacitors with thicker dielectrics might have lower dielectric absorption and thus lower distortion, so assuming that's correct [1], a polyp. cap would still be superior to a much higher voltage Mylar.
In BC you have the embarrassment of choice between Solen in Quebec, whose capacitors are well regarded, Parts Connexion in TO [2] featuring caps at prices from reasonable to spendy, and American shops Madisound along with Parts Express.
[1] gotta dredge though my archives to find a reference
[2] Toronto for y'all not living in the Great White North
In BC you have the embarrassment of choice between Solen in Quebec, whose capacitors are well regarded, Parts Connexion in TO [2] featuring caps at prices from reasonable to spendy, and American shops Madisound along with Parts Express.
[1] gotta dredge though my archives to find a reference
[2] Toronto for y'all not living in the Great White North
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One more thing: electrolytics are to be strictly disregarded. Bateman's article shows how their distortion doubles with each doubling of applied signal voltage, not even DC, so at reasonably loud levels someone could expect distortion from a tweeter capacitor. Whether it's immediately audible is a point for discussion. In my opinion audio is a field where each little gain, while not making a huge difference by itself, when added up with a host of other little gains can contribute to an improvement which can indeed be heard even if it's not traceable to any one component.
Thanks, new to all this, my first attempt was with Solen polypropylene and wondered if there were reasonably priced caps that sounded more resolving of details?
Someone mentioned Clarity Caps and when I priced a pair they came to over $120
Someone mentioned Clarity Caps and when I priced a pair they came to over $120
not sure why the 100v constraint but that said, two 16uF (50v if must be "100v") in series with each other, a 0.47uF bypass across each 16uF can and battery bias applied to the center junction might be fun.
I did this experiment 30 years ago when my ears were 23 years old... I was using a Vifa D25AG-35-06 25mm aluminum dome tweeter with a second order filter at about 3 kHz. The midrange driver was a Vifa P13WH 5 inch.
The series cap on the tweeter was 3.3 uF. I tried a non polarized electrolytic, a mylar, and a polypropylene. I rigged all the caps with alligator clips so I could quickly switch between them. At first I could not hear no difference, which surprised me. But after a few minutes I could hear the effects of the NP electrolytic. There was a "scratchy" quality to certain sounds, like female voice, violins, trumpets. Once I knew what to listen for, I could spot it quickly.
I wanted to hear a difference between the mylar and the polypropylene. Sometimes I thought I could hear something, but I could never be certain. I was using a 1990-vintage CD player. Perhaps with today's high resolution DACs and 24 bit / 96k audio, I might have heard something more definitive. Who knows. Since I had already bought the PP caps, that is what I used in the final crossover.
So yes, run this experiment for yourself. see what you hear.
When Bob Cordell did the cap-test at Dayton DIY in 2004 with his M3 speakers, it was between the MKT and MKP of his choosing. We were also able to select a favorite cap at the end of the half-hour course.
Apparently, during this ABX it was guessing whether it was the mylar or poly. I had 2 right out of all, but it was apparent I was hearing a difference and guessing it was the other one. At the end I picked the poly as my preferred, but thought it was the mylar.
As it was once put to me- listening also includes what is between the notes in terms of making it better. At that point in time, my view on this cap-mess was a bit different than my experience has shifted me to now. I was 26 then, now 42, and have built a lot since then. Suffice to say, the industrial mylar such as the one Bob used smoothed over some of the articulations that the poly sounded more open doing. Since the poly had a more-etched or harder intonation, I at the time thought this was distorting the signal and a poorer performer, but preferred the more open/spacious character.
To know what the differences can be heard as is half the battle in the rolling of capacitors in a speaker xover.
Later,
Wolf
Apparently, during this ABX it was guessing whether it was the mylar or poly. I had 2 right out of all, but it was apparent I was hearing a difference and guessing it was the other one. At the end I picked the poly as my preferred, but thought it was the mylar.
As it was once put to me- listening also includes what is between the notes in terms of making it better. At that point in time, my view on this cap-mess was a bit different than my experience has shifted me to now. I was 26 then, now 42, and have built a lot since then. Suffice to say, the industrial mylar such as the one Bob used smoothed over some of the articulations that the poly sounded more open doing. Since the poly had a more-etched or harder intonation, I at the time thought this was distorting the signal and a poorer performer, but preferred the more open/spacious character.
To know what the differences can be heard as is half the battle in the rolling of capacitors in a speaker xover.
Later,
Wolf
Okay, so a lesser-motored ferro-fluid included textile tweeter. Being that the motors on these and the HD signature are a bit splashy in the upper end, you might want a more neutral, non-bright, and unlively capacitor.
I recommend something like the Audyn Plus in this instance. Nothing hyped, good detail, lower spaciousness than some others, and very neutral; whilst not being ultra-expensive. A second would be the Superior Z-Caps, as these are bit more open/spacious than the Plus. I would not advise the Silver Z-Caps, as they will highlight the top-end and the tweeters' splashy nature. SoniCaps/MultiCaps will be too bright, for another example.
Hope that helps,
Wolf
I recommend something like the Audyn Plus in this instance. Nothing hyped, good detail, lower spaciousness than some others, and very neutral; whilst not being ultra-expensive. A second would be the Superior Z-Caps, as these are bit more open/spacious than the Plus. I would not advise the Silver Z-Caps, as they will highlight the top-end and the tweeters' splashy nature. SoniCaps/MultiCaps will be too bright, for another example.
Hope that helps,
Wolf
I guess putting a non-polarized electrolytic into the tweeter's signal path was due to cost-cutting reasons for the manufacturer with these presumably not too expensive speakers. As for replacement I'd go for industrial grade foil capacitors. I don't know what you can buy in Canada, but here in Germany I'd go for WIMA MKP4, for instance, or for motor capacitors that I can buy for cheap from surplus. No necessity at all for Solen or others with that audio capacitor decoration.
Best regards!
Best regards!
Just remember 8.2uf is very hi in a tweeter circuit.not recommended , parts express sells good tweter caps $3.00.
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