Not sure if this is the right area to ask this or not,but here goes.
I have this little 2.1 amplifier
TPS3116D2 Class D 2.1 Bluetooth 5.0 Amplifier Board 2 x 50W + 100W with Filter and Volume Controls
and this power supply
Amazon.com: AIYIMA 24V 4.5A 108W Universal AC Power Adapter Laptop Charger 5.5x2.5mm,Audio Amplifier Power Supply(24V): Home Audio & Theater
that I plan on putting in this aluminum case
Senmod 120x114x33mm Sliver White Aluminum Power Amplifier Enclosure HIFI Electronic Project Box Case - - Amazon.com
The case is longer than the board and I want to add a 5.5 x 2.1 jack to the back panel of the case so I can plug in the power supply. The amp has + and - power terminals so you can add an external jack. I found the ones below but was worried that I couldn't use them because they will ground to the aluminum case.
Amazon.com: Lsgoodcare 10Pack 5.5 x 2.1 MM 5A DC Power Jack Socket Threaded Female Mount Connector Adapter with Dustproof Plug: Home Audio & Theater
Is that going to be a problem? There are jacks available with plastic casings as well, but most of those say they only handle 3A. Does anybody think that will be a problem using the plastic ones because of the lower amp rating? The board for the amp seems to have a pretty cheap plastic female plug so I didnt think the plastic ones would be any worry.
Thanks
I have this little 2.1 amplifier
TPS3116D2 Class D 2.1 Bluetooth 5.0 Amplifier Board 2 x 50W + 100W with Filter and Volume Controls
and this power supply
Amazon.com: AIYIMA 24V 4.5A 108W Universal AC Power Adapter Laptop Charger 5.5x2.5mm,Audio Amplifier Power Supply(24V): Home Audio & Theater
that I plan on putting in this aluminum case
Senmod 120x114x33mm Sliver White Aluminum Power Amplifier Enclosure HIFI Electronic Project Box Case - - Amazon.com
The case is longer than the board and I want to add a 5.5 x 2.1 jack to the back panel of the case so I can plug in the power supply. The amp has + and - power terminals so you can add an external jack. I found the ones below but was worried that I couldn't use them because they will ground to the aluminum case.
Amazon.com: Lsgoodcare 10Pack 5.5 x 2.1 MM 5A DC Power Jack Socket Threaded Female Mount Connector Adapter with Dustproof Plug: Home Audio & Theater
Is that going to be a problem? There are jacks available with plastic casings as well, but most of those say they only handle 3A. Does anybody think that will be a problem using the plastic ones because of the lower amp rating? The board for the amp seems to have a pretty cheap plastic female plug so I didnt think the plastic ones would be any worry.
Thanks
Those jacks will work as long as the barrel and pin size match your plug.
Be aware that since they are metal cased and use a through hole mount to your case the case will be grounded to the outer casing of the plug barrel.
Also you should remove the socket from the board and wire directly to the one on the case.
Be aware that since they are metal cased and use a through hole mount to your case the case will be grounded to the outer casing of the plug barrel.
Also you should remove the socket from the board and wire directly to the one on the case.
Douglas...that is my question. Since they will be grounded to the case will that be a problem?
It looks like the pots for the controls on the front of the board have a wire that runs between all of them. It is wound around each pot where the threads are. I was thinking this is to perhaps ground them all to each other? And maybe a case?
As far as I can tell that would be the only other part of the system that would be touching the metal project box
It looks like the pots for the controls on the front of the board have a wire that runs between all of them. It is wound around each pot where the threads are. I was thinking this is to perhaps ground them all to each other? And maybe a case?
As far as I can tell that would be the only other part of the system that would be touching the metal project box
I'll probably get slammed for this but I insulate my RCA jacks from ground tie them together and go to the ground buss with a small less than 10 ohm resistor. I've always used this method to ground my inputs and never had a noise problem doing it this way. It is my belief that I change the ground slightly and it eliminates noise. I've built line stages, amps both tube and SS this way and also repaired amps for others and never ran into a problem by doing this. Actually a lot of SS amps I have worked on left with far less noise/hum than before.
With respect to the jacks... I've tried that type and always go back to ones with a longer barrel which provides better RCA male contact. Some people prefer to use and XLR jack in unbalance mode simply to provide better connection which I've done in a few occasions. There is nothing worse on equipment than accidentally pulling out an RCA when moving a piece of gear when its on.
With respect to the jacks... I've tried that type and always go back to ones with a longer barrel which provides better RCA male contact. Some people prefer to use and XLR jack in unbalance mode simply to provide better connection which I've done in a few occasions. There is nothing worse on equipment than accidentally pulling out an RCA when moving a piece of gear when its on.
Last edited:
Try the buffering resistor
Any small value, 1 ohm, 10 ohm, even 47 ohm. It limits the current between power supply ground and signal ground. I use at least a 1 watt resistor.
I never build anything using RCA connects. Used to use Locking DIN like DNM or Naim. Moved to Amphenol Twinaxial BNC. Smaller diameter, and looks like jewelry. Used to be cheap, think I purchased them all.
It requires making the cables.
Any small value, 1 ohm, 10 ohm, even 47 ohm. It limits the current between power supply ground and signal ground. I use at least a 1 watt resistor.
I never build anything using RCA connects. Used to use Locking DIN like DNM or Naim. Moved to Amphenol Twinaxial BNC. Smaller diameter, and looks like jewelry. Used to be cheap, think I purchased them all.
It requires making the cables.
nikg: I see your power supply has a 2-conductor power entry, no safety earth connection, which is not a concern, but means the barrel of the DC connector cannot be grounded. You could check to see if there is continuity from the barrel of the DC plug to the neutral AC prong, but I doubt it. So that DC- connection is floating wrt ground. Next question is "What about the 'ground' of the audio connections entering the amplifier? Are they connected to safety earth?"
I don't think you will have a problem, but you should still use a dim bulb tester when you first power it all up, and the first time you power it up while connected to other equipment.
I don't think you will have a problem, but you should still use a dim bulb tester when you first power it all up, and the first time you power it up while connected to other equipment.
It shouldn't be. Most electronics has the case grounded in one way or another...
===
For the others... guys we aren't talking about RCA jacks, this is a barrel power connector.
You'll have to likely ensure that your input RCAs (-) and speaker terminals (-) aren't shorted to the chassis. Should be fine then.
This will not have any RCA inputs. The inputs are via a “headphone” jack and Bluetooth. I am actually only going to use Bluetooth as the connectivity. The only other things that will come in contact with the case are the potentiometer threads and the speaker terminal outputs. The speaker terminals are insulated.
So it sounds like I should be fine.
Do you think I should check for continuity between the ground of the power and the potentiometers? I am thinking if there is continuity then they are grounded anyway and thus fine to be further grounded through the case.
So it sounds like I should be fine.
Do you think I should check for continuity between the ground of the power and the potentiometers? I am thinking if there is continuity then they are grounded anyway and thus fine to be further grounded through the case.
There's usually no problem of the outer shield of the RCA or the barrel of the TRS are grounded. They will be internally grounded in the amplifier anway.