Ok, so just use 1 wire to solder both ends to signal leaving the rest out and then solder the sheild at both ends to ground. I've just noticed that both the cables are marked UTP which means unsheilded twisted pair. Does that make a difference?
Yes. Unshileded would be a poor choice for a phono interconnect because the source impedance is quite high and the signal level is quite low. The shield is an electrostatic/electromagnetic shield which prevents electromagnetic and capacitive coupling of outside noise signals. With the desired signal being that low, and the circuit impedance very high, there is a much greater chance of noise coupling. If you had shielded cable, that would make the difference.
> Unshileded would be a poor choice for a phono
I know. That's why I yelled "Try it!" It's a $0.13 and 10 minute investment. In the best of cases it will "play", with hum that gets loud if touched or if it runs with wall-power.
It's a cheap lesson.
My work was 47 ohm source 470 ohm load 0.4V nominal 7V peak and crossing power only incidentally. Both channels in one cable. It was quite robust against crap, even elevator pump surge and high power walkie-talkie. Stereo separation was not 113dB, but it was a close-mike pair so, like phono, even 30dB will fool most of the people most of the time.
I know. That's why I yelled "Try it!" It's a $0.13 and 10 minute investment. In the best of cases it will "play", with hum that gets loud if touched or if it runs with wall-power.
It's a cheap lesson.
My work was 47 ohm source 470 ohm load 0.4V nominal 7V peak and crossing power only incidentally. Both channels in one cable. It was quite robust against crap, even elevator pump surge and high power walkie-talkie. Stereo separation was not 113dB, but it was a close-mike pair so, like phono, even 30dB will fool most of the people most of the time.
I just want people to benefit from my own hard-earned knowlege rather than beat their heads against the wall.> Unshileded would be a poor choice for a phono
I know. That's why I yelled "Try it!" It's a $0.13 and 10 minute investment. In the best of cases it will "play", with hum that gets loud if touched or if it runs with wall-power.
It's a cheap lesson.
I'm sure the difference in application here is obvious.My work was 47 ohm source 470 ohm load 0.4V nominal 7V peak and crossing power only incidentally. Both channels in one cable. It was quite robust against crap, even elevator pump surge and high power walkie-talkie. Stereo separation was not 113dB, but it was a close-mike pair so, like phono, even 30dB will fool most of the people most of the time.