Well i am in the process of wanting to build i nice small HT/music sub built around the mcm 55-2421 but i cant find any t/s parameters for it anywhere. And one other thing is i want it to be able to play down to the 20 -30 region, is that possible with this driver?
Greg
Greg
Actual measurements:
Fs=30.95 hz
Qms=12.2863
Qes=0.2365
Qts=0.2320
Vas=23.88 l
SPL=86.59 1w/1m
Re=3.4
Le=2.42
BL=13.15
Xmax=16mm P-P
This was from an early model, hopefully the specs have not changed.
Fs=30.95 hz
Qms=12.2863
Qes=0.2365
Qts=0.2320
Vas=23.88 l
SPL=86.59 1w/1m
Re=3.4
Le=2.42
BL=13.15
Xmax=16mm P-P
This was from an early model, hopefully the specs have not changed.
Those specs are pretty close. The claimed Fs is 24 Hz, but it does measure out more like 30 Hz even after break in. This link is to a measured SPL chart of it in a small (3.3 cu ft) 40 Hz folded horn. With the right cabinet it will work fine to 20Hz.
http://hometown.aol.com/billfitzmaurice/myhomepage/spl 1.jpg?mtbrand=AOL_US
http://hometown.aol.com/billfitzmaurice/myhomepage/spl 1.jpg?mtbrand=AOL_US
Thanks for the info but can someone point me to a program or spreadsheet that can calculate the sizes of the folded horn. And is there anyother way of reaching 20hz without a foled horn like ported design?
Greg
Greg
You only need a horn if you require high SPL, for instance to run it with a low power tube amp or to match up with high sensitivity mains. For more normal SPL just model it up in WinISD in ported box, 4th order and 6th order alignments to find what suits your requirements. The Qts is a bit too low for a sealed box or TL. I also wouldn't be too concerned about trying to get flat to 20 Hz. down 10-15dB there is quite adequate, but if you really want that kind of extension you'll have to look at larger drivers.
Zaph said:Actual measurements:
Fs=30.95 hz
Qms=12.2863
Qes=0.2365
Qts=0.2320
Vas=23.88 l
SPL=86.59 1w/1m
Re=3.4
Le=2.42
BL=13.15
Xmax=16mm P-P
This was from an early model, hopefully the specs have not changed.
I've personally measured four of them which I purchased from MCM in 2006, and these specs are right on the money.
@greg, may I ask where you purchased these drivers, wanting to make a push pull sub, like the one featured here.\
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-tapped-horn/
In Bristol too.
Thanks
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-tapped-horn/
In Bristol too.
Thanks
Hi greg_mcquaid, and Studio Au,
These drivers will work in this enclosure. Post #30: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/134369-dual-8-tapped-horn-th-spud-3.html
Regards,
These drivers will work in this enclosure. Post #30: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/134369-dual-8-tapped-horn-th-spud-3.html
Regards,
@Oliver, There are a couple of links, the Tang Band ones or the B&C.
Low cost is a priority and uk availability. Parts express international shipping is rather costly!
Low cost is a priority and uk availability. Parts express international shipping is rather costly!
Just jumping on the tread; I have a bunch of them laying around :-/
btw....
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/80138-sillys-1st-sub-8-mcm-55-2421-a.html
btw....
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/80138-sillys-1st-sub-8-mcm-55-2421-a.html
Last edited:
Actual measurements:
Fs=30.95 hz
Qms=12.2863
Qes=0.2365
Qts=0.2320
Vas=23.88 l
SPL=86.59 1w/1m
Re=3.4
Le=2.42
BL=13.15
Xmax=16mm P-P
This was from an early model, hopefully the specs have not changed.
I bought four more of these this week. They look identical to what I bought twelve years ago. Here's the specs on one I just measured, after breaking it in with pink noise for a couple hours:
Fs=26.92 hz
Qms=9.5
Qes=0.2619
Qts=0.2549
Re=3.95
Le=1.41
My Re and qts always seem to measure higher than published specs. I think their are two main 'takeaways' from my measurement in 2017, my measurement in 2006, and John's measurement in 2004:
1) the driver hasn't changed
2) the published specs are inaccurate, but John's are accurate.
Patrick,
What are you planning on doing with them?
I have 4 left on my shelf also, and remember other posts with the same "on the shelf" responses,,,so they are out there.
My last experiment with a 2421 single woofer was in small sealed box and a inexpensive plate amp with boost. The bass was impressive, and probably be fine for a small car or room.
Any reason not to use them in a 3 way, crossed over very low?
E.g. Peerless reintroduced a affordable 5.25" with inexpressive flat response.
Peerless TPY05W08O0088 5-1/4" Heritage Family Woofer 8 Ohm
What are you planning on doing with them?
I have 4 left on my shelf also, and remember other posts with the same "on the shelf" responses,,,so they are out there.
My last experiment with a 2421 single woofer was in small sealed box and a inexpensive plate amp with boost. The bass was impressive, and probably be fine for a small car or room.
Any reason not to use them in a 3 way, crossed over very low?
E.g. Peerless reintroduced a affordable 5.25" with inexpressive flat response.
Peerless TPY05W08O0088 5-1/4" Heritage Family Woofer 8 Ohm
@greg, may I ask where you purchased these drivers, wanting to make a push pull sub, like the one featured here.\
Building a Tapped Horn : 6 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables
In Bristol too.
Thanks
Has anyone built this tapped horn from instructables? And has anyone verified the design? The author's sketchup dimensions don't correspond to the Hornresp values. And he admits he has changed the design a bit. But looks like more like quite a bit. Anyone know anything about this design?
Best,
Selim
The author's sketchup dimensions don't correspond to the Hornresp values.
Yup, I tried running that design through my BOXPLAN-THAM workbook. The numbers don't add up.
Yup, I tried running that design through my BOXPLAN-THAM workbook. The numbers don't add up.
Thanks for the reply Brian. I bought the two MCM woofers already and now I'm not sure about building the enclosure as per his dimensions without verifying them. I don't have enough experience in Hornresp and I'm new to the hobby, although I understand some basics. And I do want to build a tapped horn with these drivers. Do you have any suggestions on how to go about doing that?
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