Full Range Corner Speaker

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EliGuy

Member
Joined 2019
#1
Hello everyone,

I'm looking to build my very first speaker. 🙂

I live in a condo and have limited space and budget so my constraints for this design are simple,

Minimum cost, minimum build skill, full range driver and goooooood sound.

So try as I have, I have not been able to find a similar design and I was hoping to get a wee bit
of insight from you fine folks. Of course I'm sure this MUST have been done before, so if this idea
is stupid please feel free to shoot it down No hard feelings !!!

My idea is extremely simple:

1) Take a full sheet of 3/4" birch, cut it lengthways with angled bevels.

2) Cut 4 trangles and fasten them 2 the walls in both corners.

3) Screw the the birch into the trangles

4) Place the full range driver into the plywood baffles

The distance of the triangles will give me my enclosure volume and the back wall corners
will act as a speaker box. I will angle it so that the drivers are at an ideal angle and distance
to my ear holes.

I'm hoping that by going fully floor to ceiling I will minimize flooc/ceiling reflections and because
of my minimal interior space I will maximize floor area in my lving room. My seating distance will be
aproximately 12 ft from the drivers and there is no back wall as the back of my couch faces the room opening
to the kitchen. The room dimensions sans back wall are 12x14'.

So my questions are:

1) Is this stupid?
2) Will the walls behind the baffle act as an effective speaker enclosure?
3) What Is an ideal full range driver for this application (I'm willing to go high-end ($2k budget for drivers)
4) Should I put some filling in the box ie. Insulation
5) Should I cut a port in the baffle

Thanks guys!
 
#3
Yep! That's pretty much it!

If I understand the diagram correctly, there's no rear to the enclosure, it's just using the wall.

This is pretty much what I had in mind, just for the simplicity of it. I see that they spec sand in the enclosure for this build. What is the purpose of that? I would have thought it would be rigid enough
given the use of the actual building as an enclosure.
 
#4
Visaton has something similar, one end may be open for a simple TL.
Solo Eckbox. Under full range.

It has a simple contour circuit and the B200 driver. Should be easy and really good for you.

You should be able to do without the sides, unless your walls are flimsy.

re: the wharfedale, they liked thin boards, so they killed the resonances w/sand.
 
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#5
A sand filled panel kills any resonance dead, but is very heavy!

It was an idea of its time, but nowadays with sufficient bracing, your birch ply is a more realistic option.

Yes, the rear of the enclosure is formed by the wall and, depending on its construction, you may want to apply vibration damping panels.
 
#6
Visaton has a much cheaper BG-20 driver that should work pretty well-$32 is better than $142 for a start.
You'll probably have to adjust the simple filter some, but you can build a pair complete for less than one B200.
 
#7
boswald said:
Visaton has a much cheaper BG-20 driver that should work pretty well-$32 is better than $142 for a start.
You'll probably have to adjust the simple filter some, but you can build a pair complete for less than one B200.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'm definitely wanting to get a really good driver, I was even expecting to spend more.

I think less than $300 in drivers for this build is pretty reasonable! I am just watching Youtube videos of other builds with the Visaton and I'm really impressed.

Looks like a solid speaker with good low end. I am also looking at that Eckobox build and it looks great!

Now I don't want to go a full 45 degrees with the driver angle so I was think of a bit of a trapezoidal prism shape for less toe in of around 96 inches high,

27 inches on the rear wall and 10 inches up along the side wall. This should give me just over 5 cubic ft of enclosure. I see the echobox used just over 4, so I can trim that down a bit!

I guess I have another question that I didn't think about until now. If I make the internal sealed enclosure 4 cubic ft, but then I extend the baffle all the wall to the ceiling and floor does that space behind it count towards the total speaker enclosure?

I wouldn't have thought so because its not really part of the sealed airspace behind the speaker driver, but please tell me if I'm wrong!
 
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#8
No, only the sealed airspace behind the driver counts. That air acts like a spring affecting the speaker cone. Smaller the volume, stiffer the spring and (I want to say) higher the natural frequency & start of low freq roll off. Although check your exact design with Basta or some other modeling tool. There are online free ones.
 
#9
With a Qt that high, the B200 would do well with the extra room, woouldn't be overdamped at 15 cu ft. At .76 it's a driver you could use in a wall between two rooms!
Also, the bigger you make it the less important the complete structure will be.
 
#10
boswald said:
With a Qt that high, the B200 would do well with the extra room, woouldn't be overdamped at 15 cu ft. At .76 it's a driver you could use in a wall between two rooms!
Also, the bigger you make it the less important the complete structure will be.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the insight, Boswald!

So, after a few days of contemplating, I really like your idea of the Visaton B200.

Good mix of quality drivers but not a waste of money for a first speaker that surely won't be a world champion (maybe!).

I've come up with a couple ideas I wanted to run by you to pull this off in a simple manner,

So,

1) I can build a basket surround and clamp in onto the wall between two corner braces
with some damping/rubbery material to reduce vibrattions and then because this speaker is an 'aperiodic' enclosure:

2) I can build a floating floor to ceiling baffle and have it simply resting against the driver basket. Would this decoupling benefit the sound quality? I couldn't pass up
the opportunity to have 'ultimate' damping using the building structure in this design.

also I like the idea of not having to drill as many screws into the wall of my condo 🙂

3) I can just use rubber weatherstripping type gaskets along anywhere the baffle meets the wall

My questions are:

1) How leaky can an aperiodic enclosure be? I think I can get a decent seal but it wouldnt be perfect. Would this pass as 'aperiodic' in this context?

2) Does is matter much if I don't flush mount the driver into the baffle or is that critical?

3) The Visaton B200 has a Vas of 102liters How bit should I make the enclosure. Would between 6-7 cubic ft be ok? How do I calculate it?

All told I think this would be an interesting an economic experiement. Getting excited!

I just want to work out the particulars before I pull the trigger on ordering the drivers.
 
#11
If you want to be a good camper and leave no trace(and save yourself a lot of troubleshooting) you will build the Eckboxes. It's simple, sure to work, and easy to move, room to room or home to home.


The biggest problem with a 'simple front panel' is that by the time it works well, it will no longer be simple. You know you cannot bend a one foot board easily, but a four, six, seven foot board will bend on its own. Then you add structure. Then you must press(with vectored weight) or fasten to the walls. And seal against the 'not a straightedge' surfaces. Not so simple anymore, is it?


With the complete box a tiny shim across the front bottom will have it 'falling' back into the corner, safe and secure(unless you have tiny fingers pulling at it).


Once you know how it sounds with whole boxes is the time to experiment with the partial structure. One change at a time is how we build understanding of how things work.
The alchemists were almost entirely unsuccessful, except for often poisoning themselves.
 
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