Hi guys
I have a pair of old 3 way speakers. I recently upgraded the internal wiring and the crossovers.
In doing this I have improved many aspects of the sound they produce, but at the same time created a new problem. The mids are now super 'shouty'. The higher the volume the more this seems to be an issue.
I've looked into fitting an L-Pad, but would rather a more elequent solution.
I'm handy with a soldering iron, but I'm no electronics engineer. 'buy this, fit it here' is my level of skill!
Crossovers ive fitted are generic Chinese ones from ebay.
The only thing i know about the mid range driver is its 10cm and 8ohm. I do not know its sensitivity.
Changing the driver will be difficult due to the way it mounts, so I would rather keep the original if poss.
All help and ideas appreciated.
Cheere
I have a pair of old 3 way speakers. I recently upgraded the internal wiring and the crossovers.
In doing this I have improved many aspects of the sound they produce, but at the same time created a new problem. The mids are now super 'shouty'. The higher the volume the more this seems to be an issue.
I've looked into fitting an L-Pad, but would rather a more elequent solution.
I'm handy with a soldering iron, but I'm no electronics engineer. 'buy this, fit it here' is my level of skill!
Crossovers ive fitted are generic Chinese ones from ebay.
The only thing i know about the mid range driver is its 10cm and 8ohm. I do not know its sensitivity.
Changing the driver will be difficult due to the way it mounts, so I would rather keep the original if poss.
All help and ideas appreciated.
Cheere
Yes, the original crossovers probably included elements to control the midrange level which the generic crossovers don't have.
As adason says, the best approach is to revert to the original crossover, changing out any old electrolytic non-polar capacitors for new ones.
If you would like to post a photo of the original crossover, we may be able to advise.
As adason says, the best approach is to revert to the original crossover, changing out any old electrolytic non-polar capacitors for new ones.
If you would like to post a photo of the original crossover, we may be able to advise.
That's very kind. I will retrieve them from the bin and report back.
Such a shame. The improvements were vast, but I cant live with the sound as it is.
Thanks guys
You don't really know if you improved something unless you have measurements before and after.
You sure can hear differences, but is it an improvement? What if original crossover needed some drivers in opposite polarity, and you used generic one in another. You may have created dips, or bumps in the fr response. Who knows?
Without measuring you do not really know anything.
To measure is to know.
Yeah, there are those who disagree, measurements shmeasurements...
You sure can hear differences, but is it an improvement? What if original crossover needed some drivers in opposite polarity, and you used generic one in another. You may have created dips, or bumps in the fr response. Who knows?
Without measuring you do not really know anything.
To measure is to know.
Yeah, there are those who disagree, measurements shmeasurements...
As you are new to this forum, I'd like to do anything I can to help.
So don't get flummoxed by measurements and matters of polarity, just post a photo.
Generic 3-way crossovers at there simplest look like this:
HW 3/80 NG - 8 Ohm | Visaton
A two-element LC mid filter.
A more sophisticated type is this, with a 4 element mid filter:
HW 3/120 NG - 8 Ohm | Visaton
It's questionable if one size fits all with these sort of things, but the next filter allows you to fit resistors for level matching on the mid and tweeter:
HW 3/130 NG - 8 Ohm | Visaton
The resistors are calculated to form an 8 ohm attenuator, which is something you calculate. More detail on your speaker will help here. After 5 posts you can probably add images.
HW 3/80 NG - 8 Ohm | Visaton
A two-element LC mid filter.
A more sophisticated type is this, with a 4 element mid filter:
HW 3/120 NG - 8 Ohm | Visaton
It's questionable if one size fits all with these sort of things, but the next filter allows you to fit resistors for level matching on the mid and tweeter:
HW 3/130 NG - 8 Ohm | Visaton
The resistors are calculated to form an 8 ohm attenuator, which is something you calculate. More detail on your speaker will help here. After 5 posts you can probably add images.
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