From left to right
pin 1= -.814
pin 2= -.530
pin 3= -.530
pin 4= -.319
pin 5= -15.08
pin 6= -3.01
pin 7= -3.24
pin 8= -.341
pin 9= -.806
pin 1= -.814
pin 2= -.530
pin 3= -.530
pin 4= -.319
pin 5= -15.08
pin 6= -3.01
pin 7= -3.24
pin 8= -.341
pin 9= -.806
The solder connections look good. When I check the diodes with continuity they are shorted for a second then they close in both directions. When I use the diode check they pass about .6v in both direction's. Dose this mean they are faulty?
Perry,
What diode are you asking about?
So all the solder connections on top should be redone?
D411.
The connections are a possible problem. They could be OK forever or they could cause repeated failures. It's up to you what you do with them.
The connections are a possible problem. They could be OK forever or they could cause repeated failures. It's up to you what you do with them.
D411 with the diode check passes .5v one way. When I check it with continuity it shows open both directions. Is that normal?
The continuity mode on a meter isn't for checking semiconductors. Using diode check, you should read approximately 1/2v from center leg to the other two legs with the probes one way then open with the probes reversed.
Ok so D411 is the one that someone disconnected prior to me owning the amp. It is always open I dont get a reading on anything from it.
What was post #28 if you get nothing?
Do you have a junk amp (or a new rectifier) that you could steal to install in the place of D411 if it's defective?
Do you have a junk amp (or a new rectifier) that you could steal to install in the place of D411 if it's defective?
If you look at the picture in post#23 there is another D411 by the yellow circle. I do not think I have anything that would work. I can order one if that would be best.
Yes thats the one I tested the 2nd time. Thats the one that was disconnected. Should i get a replacement?
From what I've seen, I think the amp is working except for that diode.
Do you have anything that might work?
Do you have anything that might work?
I dont believe that I have anything that would work. What would a good replacement be? I looked on Digi and nothing came up on that part number. Also should I get a replacement for Q411 thats missing?
An MUR1620CT would work.
Do you have ANY junk amps?
I don't see how you could have gotten 0.5v on diode check if the rectifier is open. That's not a mistake that you can make. Are you sure that your meter leads are OK. If you hold the probes together on diode check, do you get a constant tone and 0.00v reading no matter how you pull on the leads?
Do you have ANY junk amps?
I don't see how you could have gotten 0.5v on diode check if the rectifier is open. That's not a mistake that you can make. Are you sure that your meter leads are OK. If you hold the probes together on diode check, do you get a constant tone and 0.00v reading no matter how you pull on the leads?
I didnt get 0.5v on this f12c20c, I got it on the D411 diode that was in the other picture next to the yellow circle.
I check the leads and get 0.00v but no tone. The tone only happens when I put it in continuity mode.
I dont have any amps to steel one out of at this time
I check the leads and get 0.00v but no tone. The tone only happens when I put it in continuity mode.
I dont have any amps to steel one out of at this time
0.00 is a dead short and the same thing you'd get if you touched the probes together.
You'll have to replace at least 4 of the PS FETs since one is missing. I'd suggest replacing all 8.
It's odd that the amp has two D411s?
You'll have to replace at least 4 of the PS FETs since one is missing. I'd suggest replacing all 8.
It's odd that the amp has two D411s?
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