Correct, I have some US made 60/40 in the lab and I think the flux must be inert.
Flux formulation has changed over the years due to safety regulations and to suit water based board cleaning.
I don't know if modern flux goes off in storage
Some do go bad. I've had rosin core go bad, as well as some tubs of paste.
Also, I've had stuff 20 and 30 years old still working.
We keep 12 to 24 one lb tubs of R type in stock, it works after decades of storage, is petrolatum based. The alcohol based is tossed after one year as the alcohol diffuses through the plastic storage container, and trying to reconstitute it never works.
I assume some rosin core ingredients either diffuse or perhaps oxidize over time.
Jn
Ps. I deal with epoxies the same way....if either the hardener or resin container has started to collapse, toss both as some of the volatiles have diffused out and the mix won't cure correctly.
did anyone try this one: SnPbAg 62/36/2 Silver-Bearing Rosin-Core Solder, 0.022" Diameter - 1.5 | RadioShack ?
I got a couple of them last year from a local store, I was really impressed , very clean and shiny contact .
I got a couple of them last year from a local store, I was really impressed , very clean and shiny contact .
The Radio Shack solder is fine , the 2% silver lowers the melting point and provides good wetting although the 0.56mm is a little on the big side for using with surface mount components.
The silver does not lower the melting point, silver solder is for soldering silver plated cables etc. it can be used for general soldering, I often use it as I have a large real of it.
Are you sure its the solder ?
I started having trouble with soldering and turned out to be the iron bit in the end.
I also had trouble with an old soldering iron that was no longer getting hot enough.
So I bought a Weller iron and it melts the solder really quickly.
I started having trouble with soldering and turned out to be the iron bit in the end.
I also had trouble with an old soldering iron that was no longer getting hot enough.
So I bought a Weller iron and it melts the solder really quickly.
Cleanliness is key.
Component leads oxidise in storage.
A wipe with fine wet & dry paper works wonders.
A smear of additional flux does no harm.
Component leads oxidise in storage.
A wipe with fine wet & dry paper works wonders.
A smear of additional flux does no harm.
So nit does, never bought it for that reason though, always for use with silver plated copper cables.
Is silver solder necessary for silver plated wires, 2% seems a very small amount to make much difference?
Trace amounts of silver, gold, copper help to prevent 'leaching' of those metals being soldered. Especially circuit boards. I find that 62/36/2 solders well and leaves a nice smooth joint. Other alloys feature no-lead, stronger joints and other requirements, there are probably hundreds of formulas. But 63/37 and 2 per cent silver are my preferred solders for electronics.
As Damon says: plain tin/lead SUCKS Silver off the wire. Even a small trace of Silver in the solder balances the chemistry.
Actually, that is not quite accurate.
The leaching of silver, gold, and copper depends on the alloy, the temp, and the flux. I see so many "process engineers" playing games with alloys and soldering but not really understanding what is going on.
Sigh.. I lament our education system..
Jn
Tangentially related - is soldering really necessary?
An electrical engineer friend of mine suggested an alternative route when soldering isn't absolutely necessary for a connection. Mind you this was not for audio, it was for a GPS unit that would go under water and be subject to shocks through use, so it may be overkill for audio purposes:
Strip away enough of the sheathing to expose your wire or connections together and twist them or secure them somehow, then encase this in the glue from a hot-glue gun (use low setting). This binds the two wires together and creates a water-resistant (possibly water proof if you're thorough), and shock-proof seal that does not add any other metal to the connection.
An electrical engineer friend of mine suggested an alternative route when soldering isn't absolutely necessary for a connection. Mind you this was not for audio, it was for a GPS unit that would go under water and be subject to shocks through use, so it may be overkill for audio purposes:
Strip away enough of the sheathing to expose your wire or connections together and twist them or secure them somehow, then encase this in the glue from a hot-glue gun (use low setting). This binds the two wires together and creates a water-resistant (possibly water proof if you're thorough), and shock-proof seal that does not add any other metal to the connection.
Your so-called "electrical engineer" friend gives you his ideas which in my opinion as a long-time electronics tech, are nonsense, pure BS.
Hot glue?
Please!
Tell that person he gives bad advice.
I wonder how crappy his inventions must be.
Wire wrapping is an interesting technique and has some advantages over soldering Wire wrap - Wikipedia
I never cared for wire wrapping.
Over time, oxidation can cause issues, and I've seen some high-current connections fail miserably.
Nothing beats a good old soldered joint.
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