I'm new here. I can't decide what build I would like to undertake. I want something like the seas trym, but not sure if it's capabilities. Can anyone give me any advice?
Many of us have moved on from conventional direct radiator speakers like the trym because horns are so much more fun. If I were just starting out, I'd build an econowave. Have fun!
The Trym is a conventional 2 way, with good quality drivers, a good place to start. You need to define your goals first, Trym would give you the experience of building simple cabs, and assembling high quality speakers. Perhaps you could download Unibox and model the woofer, to compare with the 'Measurements' pdf on Seas' site.If you can get hold of FRD & ZMA files, or produce them yourself, you could model the stock crossover in Xsim, to get a feel for how it's done.
Room size, music taste, loudness level, budget, WAF, woodworking skills, build skills, the list goes on and on. Are there speakers you like? Listen to a bunch of them to help guide you.
If you want something a little more challenging than just a box you could try a W bin.
fane_diagram | harrabylad | Flickr
fane_diagram | harrabylad | Flickr
-a stand-mount if you've got good cabinet making skills:
Premios Bare Bones Kit (Pair) - Meniscus Audio
Note: this description is wrong, the woofer is NOT carbon fiber. (..it is an excellent woofer though in the right design, like this one.)
Test Bench - Dayton Audio ES180Ti-8 7” High-End Midbass Woofer | audioXpress
The tweeter is now in-manufacture again, and like all Transducer Labs - is outstanding. (..plus, this one is the most durable of the group.)
Premios Bare Bones Kit (Pair) - Meniscus Audio
Note: this description is wrong, the woofer is NOT carbon fiber. (..it is an excellent woofer though in the right design, like this one.)
Test Bench - Dayton Audio ES180Ti-8 7” High-End Midbass Woofer | audioXpress
The tweeter is now in-manufacture again, and like all Transducer Labs - is outstanding. (..plus, this one is the most durable of the group.)
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Which build!!!
I’ve made a seas excel/atc/scanspeak like a Wilson watt, crossovers done by John Bryant in Woking. Then small bookshelves also with excel and scan.my space is unconventional, would post pics but not sure how yet?
I’ve made a seas excel/atc/scanspeak like a Wilson watt, crossovers done by John Bryant in Woking. Then small bookshelves also with excel and scan.my space is unconventional, would post pics but not sure how yet?
As a beginner, don´t make the mistake to "design" anything by your self, change the position of drivers on the front panel or change the panels shape.
The x-over is the most important part of the whole build, even the best and most expensive speakers can sound like garbadge if it is designed wrong.
To put it on a point, the cross over is the most important part of any speaker system.
This can not be said often enough. Changing a speaker in a good design will in 99.9% of all cases go wrong.
If you choose a really proven concept and build a solid housing for the speakers, you can save hundreds or thousends of $ by DIYS speakers. SEAS chassis for example are found in the most expensive speakers you can buy, same with Scan Speak and many others. Dayton does many good speakers with excelent price performance ratio.
Building a horn is in no case a good idea for a beginner, as construction, combination of drivers and room placement are impossible to figure out for a beginner. Often horn combinations are a never ending project´s that run for decades. For PA this is different, but there high sound quality gets crazy expensive and you should have a very, very large room for real enjoyment.
The x-over is the most important part of the whole build, even the best and most expensive speakers can sound like garbadge if it is designed wrong.
To put it on a point, the cross over is the most important part of any speaker system.
This can not be said often enough. Changing a speaker in a good design will in 99.9% of all cases go wrong.
If you choose a really proven concept and build a solid housing for the speakers, you can save hundreds or thousends of $ by DIYS speakers. SEAS chassis for example are found in the most expensive speakers you can buy, same with Scan Speak and many others. Dayton does many good speakers with excelent price performance ratio.
Building a horn is in no case a good idea for a beginner, as construction, combination of drivers and room placement are impossible to figure out for a beginner. Often horn combinations are a never ending project´s that run for decades. For PA this is different, but there high sound quality gets crazy expensive and you should have a very, very large room for real enjoyment.
All excellent points. He's built two direct radiators already, why a 3rd very similar? Explore. Try something different. The econowave is a simple design ready to go and would give you a taste of something different, but the point about spouse approval, musical preference, desired output is correct. Can you share some of these with us? Attending an audio show is invaluable for hearing different speaker types without having to build them. Or finding a local speaker building nerd you can befriend and listen to their gear. Where do you live?
I'd check out the DIYsoundgroup offerings. Community members around here made many of the designs, and a kit is a great way to start learning, with assured success (at least to some extent).
Which build!!!
Still can't work out how to upload pics!
. The cellar is small, 4.2m X 3m. Vaulted ceiling ,max height 2m down to 1.4 either side, set up with worktops all round with system an d speakers at one end. Bookshelf of around 10_15 litre is what I'm after.
Still can't work out how to upload pics!
. The cellar is small, 4.2m X 3m. Vaulted ceiling ,max height 2m down to 1.4 either side, set up with worktops all round with system an d speakers at one end. Bookshelf of around 10_15 litre is what I'm after.
Attachments
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Upload a picture from your computer, you will then see a list of HTTP links, copy the second one down, when replying, click on the icon above which looks like mountains and a sun (below the undo arrow,) delete the http:// bit in the box and paste in the http address you copied from the Postimage page, click OK and you're done.
The Seas Trym in your original post is 34 liters. Also very expensive relative to other good choices.
At 15 liters look at Jeff Bagby's Mandolin and Adelphos kits.
SB_Acoustics' high end Satori drivers get great reviews.
World Expert Joachim Gerhard created the Kalasan as an open design for SB-Acoustics Satori drivers. The $52 SB29RDC-4 tweeter measures almost identical to the $132 Satori TW29R-4 tweeter used in Kalasan.
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SB Acoustics Satori Monitor - diyAudio
Joachim Gerhard final Satori Kalasan crossover 5.0 circuits from the Kalasan diyAudio thread. # 700
--SB Acoustics Satori Monitor
measurements post# 699
crossover circuits post# 700
photos post# 801 762 746
The woodshop capability often sets the design selection.
There are two common 15-liter cabinets with slanted baffles for time and phase alignment: box with 6-degree slanted baffle; pyramid shape with slanted baffle.
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My desk speakers use the 7" Satori MW19-4 midbass with the 1.1" SB29RDC-4 tweeter using a 1650Hz crossover. Very natural vocals.
World Expert Joachim Gerhard created the Kalasan as an open design for SB-Acoustics Satori drivers. The $52 SB29RDC-4 tweeter measures almost identical to the $132 Satori TW29R-4 tweeter used in Kalasan.
=====
SB Acoustics Satori Monitor - diyAudio
Joachim Gerhard final Satori Kalasan crossover 5.0 circuits from the Kalasan diyAudio thread. # 700
--SB Acoustics Satori Monitor
measurements post# 699
crossover circuits post# 700
photos post# 801 762 746
The woodshop capability often sets the design selection.
There are two common 15-liter cabinets with slanted baffles for time and phase alignment: box with 6-degree slanted baffle; pyramid shape with slanted baffle.
===========================
My desk speakers use the 7" Satori MW19-4 midbass with the 1.1" SB29RDC-4 tweeter using a 1650Hz crossover. Very natural vocals.
Attachments
If you have a difficult room, a good idea would be to go for relatively small two way speakers with powerful drivers and add a sub woofer. With small main speakers you have more options to find an acoustical satisfying position and the sub makes them sound big.
That's worked very well for me in the past.
For the best chance of success, sealed speakers are usually easier to integrate with a subwoofer (subjectively I prefer a sealed sub too).
Which build
This is what I have thought, also with the sealed thing.
I have alpair 7.3 in a solid sealed box 8litre. And a passive sub with a kef radiator (basically a kef 104 in a box with a coil)
This is what I have thought, also with the sealed thing.
I have alpair 7.3 in a solid sealed box 8litre. And a passive sub with a kef radiator (basically a kef 104 in a box with a coil)
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