There is not a cheaper solution as the I2S/PCM converter:
BUT, you should consider a solid ground PCB (double sided, one side is GND, the other are traces), there will be a speed of 3MHz. If you don't do it, it can play bad.
+ "PCM2706 USB to I2S" from ebay which you posted
The saved money will be paid by a lot of DIY work 😀
BUT, you should consider a solid ground PCB (double sided, one side is GND, the other are traces), there will be a speed of 3MHz. If you don't do it, it can play bad.
+ "PCM2706 USB to I2S" from ebay which you posted
The saved money will be paid by a lot of DIY work 😀
Last edited:
😉
BTW, I think that the work that these 6 Shift Registers do can also be done using a Microcontroller..
From the diagram, it seems that only 2 Inputs legs and 2 Output legs will be needed, on the Microcontroller.
This will reduce the size (and number of components) of the PCB..
BTW, I think that the work that these 6 Shift Registers do can also be done using a Microcontroller..
From the diagram, it seems that only 2 Inputs legs and 2 Output legs will be needed, on the Microcontroller.
This will reduce the size (and number of components) of the PCB..
😀 You will not reduce the cost. Your time/work with uC or another solutions will not be paid.
If you want to reduce the size, go with jlsounds - it is everything in one PCB, high quality crystals included.
If you meant some cheap arduino, good luck and come back to boast 😀 😀
If you want to reduce the size, go with jlsounds - it is everything in one PCB, high quality crystals included.
If you meant some cheap arduino, good luck and come back to boast 😀 😀
Last edited:
I know 😉
Notice I said "reduce the size (and number of components)", not cost..
I am completely aware that writing the program can take days..
(and that made me think maybe I should just get the 63Euro module 🙂 )
Funny, it's also something that I thought about it after writing it,
that it might require some other microcontroller, that is faster
Another third thing that I thought about, which you did not mention unlike the previous 2,
is that If someone is using a microcontroller to do some of the work,
then the microcontroller might also be able to do Toslink to I2S/PCM conversion..
Thus, again, getting rid of more components, and simplifying the resulting board.
Do you want to reduce the price or not? 😀
What are these attempts?
Nobody will help you with uC to do that (only XMOS references and their code 😀).
It's not that easy to do it right.
What are these attempts?
Nobody will help you with uC to do that (only XMOS references and their code 😀).
It's not that easy to do it right.
hehe
I am not trying to reduce the price,
I was just trying to avoid a 63Euro module since it seemed expensive.
(if it was 10-15$ I would buy it without hesitation, but 63Euro, and just for a part of the DAC, hurts a bit)
In any case, what happens to someone who wishes to have an Optical input?
No such module exists, that also does the job?
(JLsounds doesn't seem to have one for optical)
You will obviously then need an optical receiver, an spdif receiver and a digital filter that can output the desired format. You can look at many 20+ year old dac circuits for inspiration.
Not hard to have both USB and optical, but these interfaces are completely different and the spdif will likely also involve a DF.
What kind of dac do you want anyway? NOS? OS? Capable of hires? Is cheapness the only criteria?
Not hard to have both USB and optical, but these interfaces are completely different and the spdif will likely also involve a DF.
What kind of dac do you want anyway? NOS? OS? Capable of hires? Is cheapness the only criteria?
The plan was to build an AD1862 DAC.
But it seems that it's more work than what I thought,
and since I am already working on other things in my spare time, and don't want to "split" to more,
I am mostlikely abandoning the idea..
Too bad there aren't ready made AD1862 DAC boards for sale.
But it seems that it's more work than what I thought,
and since I am already working on other things in my spare time, and don't want to "split" to more,
I am mostlikely abandoning the idea..
Too bad there aren't ready made AD1862 DAC boards for sale.
jlsounds is proper done USB/I2S DSD SPDIF converter (I think the best of all in one), which is able to work with different DACs directly and provides for them: asynchronous transfer, reclocking (a good jitter eliminator), galvanic isolation, bit shifting ...
It comes with: XMOS with licensed driver, xilinx cpld, high quality NDK oscillators, quality power sources, 4? layers PCB, 80+ other parts ... assembled, programmed ... little pay for work ... it is one converter which can drive almost every DIY DAC ... it is imposible to build it and get for 10-15USD 🙂 ...
In the price of 10USD you can buy only PCM2706/7 based one chip USB/I2S converter, which is good for R-2R based DACs only (because of their higher jitter resistancy). The jitter from PCM2706/7 is about 500ps and maybe even more, which is too bad for delta-sigma DACs.
AD1862 NOS DACs are mostly DIY.
Well done AD1862 NOS DACs sounds great, thats why nobody sells them 😀
They are expensive (therefore no company is producing them anymore, it is not worth it) .. DIY is more expensive as ready made. It is not possible to build a good NOS on the cheap 😀 .... so the price is your concern 🙄
Last edited:
I see what you mean.
So maybe it's not that overpriced like I thought.
Just one thing I didn't understand:
>jlsounds is proper done USB/I2S DSD SPDIF converter
SPDIF?
I thought it's only USB..
Yes.
Also add to that the time it requires.
Adding the fact that you mostlikely have to order components from abroad,
and also PCB Print a PCB and wait for it too,
it means the whole thing might take 2-3 months till you get it to first work..
I have tried until now more than 10 DACs..
But all were purchased, so it was much faster..
Also I tried to stay within the 100$ range of DACs 🙂
Last edited:
choose your poison
Well, 2-3 months sounds optimistic ! Add on that you have no experience nore know where to beginn = more monney and time if diy.
10 x 100 bucks = 1 000 bucks (correct me if wrong)!
Saving time & monney = not diy = purchase off shelf = best bang for the bucks
I agree once more with miro1360 and say again what I did : buying directly a good dac wether diy passioned or not is less expensive and save time.
Where audio diy winns is the time spent (loss? choose the good word!) as a hobby! Spending time in a hobby is always expensive but you like it as a hobby is all about spending pleasure time.
With 2200 bucks brandnew (less in second hand) you can buy a Class Stereophile Dac with the Benchmark 3 iirc (Btw Markw4 member benchmarks it with diy chi-fi dac) ! You have in the price not only a Dac but also a pre and a headphone dac-amp as well !
all of that = choose into the triangle your poison ! (monney, curiosity&hobby, sound quality !
For the moment my bet is you have targetted the curiosity&hobby side without reached the two others points (well i already said that!) while here people really try to targett sound quality. They can not save monney cause they spent a lot with time & monney and if no diy audio they will spend as much time & monney with psychanalysis, so...
Both is monney lost, while psy is greener and buy a good off shelves dac is even greener if you visit the psy with your car !
I'm noy your psy as I want to help you 😉 . But choose your poison, you have a triangle equation problem with turning in circle with your approach (it's really not only about the dac chip and sorting them out on the stairway as everyone is saying and as time is also important for you). Choose your poison if you really want to help yourself. 🙂
Well, 2-3 months sounds optimistic ! Add on that you have no experience nore know where to beginn = more monney and time if diy.
10 x 100 bucks = 1 000 bucks (correct me if wrong)!
Saving time & monney = not diy = purchase off shelf = best bang for the bucks
I agree once more with miro1360 and say again what I did : buying directly a good dac wether diy passioned or not is less expensive and save time.
Where audio diy winns is the time spent (loss? choose the good word!) as a hobby! Spending time in a hobby is always expensive but you like it as a hobby is all about spending pleasure time.
With 2200 bucks brandnew (less in second hand) you can buy a Class Stereophile Dac with the Benchmark 3 iirc (Btw Markw4 member benchmarks it with diy chi-fi dac) ! You have in the price not only a Dac but also a pre and a headphone dac-amp as well !
all of that = choose into the triangle your poison ! (monney, curiosity&hobby, sound quality !
For the moment my bet is you have targetted the curiosity&hobby side without reached the two others points (well i already said that!) while here people really try to targett sound quality. They can not save monney cause they spent a lot with time & monney and if no diy audio they will spend as much time & monney with psychanalysis, so...
Both is monney lost, while psy is greener and buy a good off shelves dac is even greener if you visit the psy with your car !
I'm noy your psy as I want to help you 😉 . But choose your poison, you have a triangle equation problem with turning in circle with your approach (it's really not only about the dac chip and sorting them out on the stairway as everyone is saying and as time is also important for you). Choose your poison if you really want to help yourself. 🙂
Well, as miro1360 also said
(we quote miro1360 a lot..)
I completely agree with you.
But I already do several things in software development, and science,
so adding another one, means spreading too much, hence achieving little in each one.
I have many interests, I cannot achieve all.
I must mention that I don't use headphones..
So that part is not going to be needed..
😉..
If you start with the requirement the DAC has to be AD1862 then I'd agree with you. But I don't - TDA1387 can do good NOS sound in the right implementation.
Is it just because of the Input part? (USB, or something else),
or other things in addition to it?
No its the fact of the price of that particular DAC chip - when I looked it was going for upwards of 40RMB on Taobao. Which is only 47dB more expensive than a TDA1387. Remember you need two AD1862s to make a stereo DAC so already your BOM starts at 80RMB.
Incidentally I think if you feed your AD1862 from an S/PDIF receiver you might be able to create a simpler interface (many fewer logic ICs). I haven't examined in detail but a right-justified output mode looks possible with AD1862 provided you don't mind half a sample delay for one channel. CS8416 has such an output mode.
Incidentally I think if you feed your AD1862 from an S/PDIF receiver you might be able to create a simpler interface (many fewer logic ICs). I haven't examined in detail but a right-justified output mode looks possible with AD1862 provided you don't mind half a sample delay for one channel. CS8416 has such an output mode.
The DAC chip was 11$ each..
I bought 4, so if I use 2 and they're so good, then I'll have another pair, for a second DAC..
For some reason you put the emphasis on the DAC chips price,
but I was more worried from the 63Euro module 🙂
$11 is quite a lot more than 40RMB. I put the emphasis on the price of the DAC chip because its by far the most expensive BOM item in a complete AD1862 DAC.
I ignored the 63euros for the module because on a dedicated DAC design you'd not need anything more than a (say) $2 microcontroller.
I ignored the 63euros for the module because on a dedicated DAC design you'd not need anything more than a (say) $2 microcontroller.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.