I have a bluetooth speaker with this amplifier.
Today the bluethooth speaker was playing music and suddenly music on phone was playing and no sound from speaker and aplifier was on.
I change the speaker driver and no sound from aplifier .
What can i do ?
Sorry for my english if i write wrong.
Today the bluethooth speaker was playing music and suddenly music on phone was playing and no sound from speaker and aplifier was on.
I change the speaker driver and no sound from aplifier .
What can i do ?
Sorry for my english if i write wrong.
Buy new one. Check anything, like voltage. This stuff may fail after burn in. If you buy Chinese, you get Chinese quality. May play, may fail. Mister in China don´t care. He´s got your money.
This is about globalization. Negative side.
If you have the tools and skills to repair such an amp (small SMD parts, it is electronics, not dirt the little points), you probably would not ask. So, back to step one: Buy new. Most will work well, some don´t. No joke.
This is about globalization. Negative side.
If you have the tools and skills to repair such an amp (small SMD parts, it is electronics, not dirt the little points), you probably would not ask. So, back to step one: Buy new. Most will work well, some don´t. No joke.
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As "Turbowatch2" says, there is a risk it has burned off.
If possible, please make a photo of the Bluetooth/amplifier board and append it to your next posting.
Please tell what supply voltage you used?
Please inform us about the impedance of your speakers?
Does your phone still say that it is Bluetooth-connected to the Bluetooth/amplifier board?
Do you have an oscilloscope?
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I use a batery pack 3s2p
2 speakers in series 8 ohm
1 speaker 6 ohm
I tested the amplifier today and work normaly.
I use a batery pack 3s2p
2 speakers in series 8 ohm
1 speaker 6 ohm
I tested the amplifier today and work normaly.
With 10-11V supply and 6/8 Ohm speakers it is not overload that may have stopped your amplifier, rather the opposite.
You have one opportunity for test and one reason for the sudden stop.
Your opportunity for test is the AUX input that allows you to test the TDA7492 amplifier separately.
A possible reason for the sudden stop may be the logic that controls which input and may have changed state due to a temporary low voltage transient.
Would you have a 12Vdc supply just while looking for a fault? I like having a supply voltage I know when testing. Afterwards, you can use the battery again.
Let us know if the problem returns.
You have one opportunity for test and one reason for the sudden stop.
Your opportunity for test is the AUX input that allows you to test the TDA7492 amplifier separately.
A possible reason for the sudden stop may be the logic that controls which input and may have changed state due to a temporary low voltage transient.
Would you have a 12Vdc supply just while looking for a fault? I like having a supply voltage I know when testing. Afterwards, you can use the battery again.
Let us know if the problem returns.
Today at 14 when i arrive home i start the speaker to listen some music and work for some time and same problem
Try with the phone on the AUX input. Most likely it is not burned off but the electronic input selector is to suspect.
Tested today start the speaker and i put an aux tested with aux and bluetooth work some time and then the same problem
So, it stopped while the input was at AUX? It is important to know if the amplifier itself (TDA7492) stopped or it was perhaps the BTL-module or input selector circuit. Did the heatsink become hot?
you wrote speaker..hopefully you mean speakers (both!)- please connect always a load = resistor or speaker on both ouput channels
because an open speaker output can force" the amp finally to stop...or worse
chris
When it stopped, did you then try to push the small button for selection of input to see if you could get the sound back?
Did you play loud?
Did you play loud?
How do you switch between BT-function and AUX-input if you do not have an input selection button?
You play loud and you use a battery with a voltage of 10-11V. The TDA7492 has an undervoltage cut-off function. I do not use batteries myself but "Turbowatch2" kindly explained that batteries have a reaction delay that means the dynamic impedance of a battery can be significantly higher than the static impedance. Thus, when you play loud, the supply voltage may drop below the under-voltage threshold for a very short moment and the amplifier may cut-off due to the under-voltage protection. Do you have a power supply (a laptop adapter or similar) with a voltage of 12V-19V and minimum 3A current you can use until the fault has been identified?
Trying to look for a fault when the supply voltage may cause the problem is very difficult.
You play loud and you use a battery with a voltage of 10-11V. The TDA7492 has an undervoltage cut-off function. I do not use batteries myself but "Turbowatch2" kindly explained that batteries have a reaction delay that means the dynamic impedance of a battery can be significantly higher than the static impedance. Thus, when you play loud, the supply voltage may drop below the under-voltage threshold for a very short moment and the amplifier may cut-off due to the under-voltage protection. Do you have a power supply (a laptop adapter or similar) with a voltage of 12V-19V and minimum 3A current you can use until the fault has been identified?
Trying to look for a fault when the supply voltage may cause the problem is very difficult.
If i add a boost convertor and set it to 12 v
This speaker have a mounth and something and i dont have any problem with it .
This speaker have a mounth and something and i dont have any problem with it .
A boost converter is less ideal than a laptop supply because we do not know how the boost converter will react when it is loaded with a dynamic load (an amplifier playing music).
If you haven't got anything else but the boost converter, try to put it at 16 V so there is at least a good voltage margin down to the under-voltage threshold. Try if that changes the problem with amplifier cut-off.
If you haven't got anything else but the boost converter, try to put it at 16 V so there is at least a good voltage margin down to the under-voltage threshold. Try if that changes the problem with amplifier cut-off.
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