Nostalgic rebuild plan - would love your input

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Deleted member 184039

#1
Hi all! Haven't really been around in a while, but I'm getting back into hifi and I have a project I'm wanting to tackle and I'd love some input.



So I'm thinking about embarking on a labor of love to restore some speakers my dad gave me when I was 13 or 14. He bought these new, I'm assuming from Radio Shack circa 1978-1980, because he bought a Realistic receiver and turntable at the same time. They are a private label brand called Ultralinear and are basically a knock-off/clone of a JBL L100. They're not expensive speakers and don't sound fantastic, not then, not now, but I don't really care as they remind me of my dad. They're classic rock blasters.



The attached link is NOT of my actual speakers, just the same model.


Ultralinear 210w/o speakers (rare west coast style classics!) Saanich, Victoria


I replaced the rotted out drivers in 1994 or so with some no-name 12's I got from JC Whitney. They've been stored in my garage since the early 2000's and I think I can bring them back to life. I found another article online where a guy restored a set like these, but he just recapped the crossover.


Advice on fixing up Ultralinear speakers — Polk Audio


I'm planning on a little bit more, replacing all the drivers with some low-cost but quality components from Parts Express. Tell me what you think and if you've ever done this (or worked with these speakers before!) BTW, these are not my main speakers, I have a nice set of 1st generation early 80's Klipsch Heresys with a sub for that.


Specs:


Ultralinear 210 W/O speaker
Frequency response - 29 Hz to 21 kHz
Power - Min 10W RMS - Max 50W RMS (circuit breaker)
Nominal impedance - 8 ohms
System components:
12" foam-edge air-suspension low frequency driver
5" self-enclosed edge-treated mid-range transducer
1" ultra-wide dispersion soft dome high-frequency radiator
Crossover frequencies: 1400 Hz and 5000 Hz with front-mounted high frequency level control


Replacement parts:


New caps: Dayton Audio DMPC-30 30uF 250V Polypropylene Cap x 4 (5% MP), Dayton Audio DMPC-12 12uF 250V Polypropylene Cap x 2 (5% MP)


New tweeters: Dayton Audio DC25T-8 1" Titanium Dome Tweeter (x2), 8 ohms, 50 watts, 3 kHz - 20 kHz, 93 dB 1W/1m


New mid-range: Pyle PDMR5 5" Sealed Back Mid-range Speaker Driver (x2), 8 ohms, 100 watts, 450 Hz - 7 kHz, 92 dB 1W/1m


New low-frequency: Dayton Audio DC300-8 12" Classic Woofer (x2), 8 ohms, 80 watts, 25 Hz - 2,500 Hz, 90.3 dB 2.83V/1m
 
#2
Without performing measurements, the best chance of getting decent sound quality could be achieved by simulating the whole rig. Dayton Audio luckily offers these files as frd's and zma's. With aditional manipulation the enclosure can be simulated and then a crossover design can begin. Let the parts quality aside for starters, that is the least of a problem. Choose a midrange from Dayton and perhaps me or someone else will help you with this project.
 
#3
The only issue here is that I don't believe Dayton offers a 5" midrange driver, which is the size currently in the cabinet. I was trying to avoid cutting or widening existing holes too much.
 
#4
I stand corrected. This one: RS125P-8 or this one RS125-8 may work. Both are 5" reference woofers. One is paper cone and the other not. They both appear to fall in spec with the current crossover points.
 
#5
Dayton offers 10x 5" class midrange/midwoofers. They are not enclosed as Pyle unit though, so a dedicated plastic cover dome should be there to decouple from woofer waves.


edit: the crossover points should be improved/lowered.
 
#7
Let me know the enclosure baffle measures, (x,y) coordinates of each driver in this baffle, and net inner volume of the enclosure. We will see what can be done. Can you fabricate a couple of litres enclosure to encapsulate midrange unit?
 
#8
#9
Ok, I'll manage to extract the x and y's by tracing the photo. The tweeter looks as if it's significantly underspeced to be in the same league as mid and woofer. I would suggest you to choose rather DC28F-8 or better, if you don't mind.


edit: count on a couple of days so I can finish this sim. I shall give my best effort to make it simple, while not compromising the sound quality.
 
Last edited:
#11
Lojzek said:
Ok, I'll manage to extract the x and y's by tracing the photo. The tweeter looks as if it's significantly underspeced to be in the same league as mid and woofer. I would suggest you to choose rather DC28F-8 or better, if you don't mind.


edit: count on a couple of days so I can finish this sim. I shall give my best effort to make it simple, while not compromising the sound quality.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the help!
 
#16
Lojzek said:
Ok, I'll manage to extract the x and y's by tracing the photo. The tweeter looks as if it's significantly underspeced to be in the same league as mid and woofer. I would suggest you to choose rather DC28F-8 or better, if you don't mind.


edit: count on a couple of days so I can finish this sim. I shall give my best effort to make it simple, while not compromising the sound quality.
Click to expand...

Hey, what about this as a possible midrange? It was a suggestion.

“Also there is the PA 130-8 5" midrange in the Dayton Pro Sound range for $18 which is well liked around here.”
 
#19
I like that midrange enclosure a lot and anything will sound better than one of the sealed back mids but if you really want to keep them you should listen to them and why not do the best you can in the box you have?
Nice offer from you there Lojzek
 
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