Yes no point heading for subterranean cutoff frequencies unless you have good acoustic efficiency to generate enough sound pressure for it to be useful.... or even audible (No 3" driver in any kind of enclosure will give you that).
Have a look at what's sensible to aim for:
Equal-loudness_contours
You are up against the laws of physics, and the laws of physics will win 😉
Have a look at what's sensible to aim for:
Equal-loudness_contours
You are up against the laws of physics, and the laws of physics will win 😉
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one idea would be to make a very looong 1/4 pipe using several of them. but even then spl would be limited.
and enclosure size wouldn't be 'small'
..infact for a given output you may as well use a real driver.
..infact for a given output you may as well use a real driver.
perhaps a dual 5.
I have seen a 16hz horn/tapped-pipe using dual 6inch drivers. there smallish. (depending on.. 'definition of small') lowest I saw for a 6inch driver was 30hz.
I have seen a 16hz horn/tapped-pipe using dual 6inch drivers. there smallish. (depending on.. 'definition of small') lowest I saw for a 6inch driver was 30hz.
On a tapped horn.......
Hmm, you don't mention how 'small' is small, but this driver ideally wants to 'feel' a bit different specs for a TH, though two in series works well enough to do 20 Hz >100 dB/10 W and >105 dB/25 W/1pi in ~28 L/ 1.0 ft^3 net and of course somewhat more in a solidly constructed corner.
GM
Attachments
winforce, I was thinking home theatre; was looking to get something great out of this little driver and was hoping that the 3d-printer would give me some construction advantage by unlocking any complex shape.
When thinking of geometric gymnastics for a driver enclosure, it's always good to think in wavelengths. Things much less in path length or wall dimension aren't going to do much (beyond the limitations of air volumes and cone excursion) at less than about 1/4 wavelength. At 20Hz, that's 14ft. That's not going to be small, compared to a 3" driver.
When thinking of geometric gymnastics for a driver enclosure, it's always good to think in wavelengths. Things much less in path length or wall dimension aren't going to do much (beyond the limitations of air volumes and cone excursion) at less than about 1/4 wavelength. At 20Hz, that's 14ft. That's not going to be small, compared to a 3" driver.
am I understanding correctly that both front and rear horns must be at least 14ft to get some 20hz gain?
I have similar projects going here atm. Just got 4x Tangband w4-992s, trying to get satisfying results = lots of bass from small drivers, reasonable lower cut limit, while keeping enclosure size tolerable.
So I made a dual bass reflex: 12 litres, tuned to 50Hz. This gave pretty nice results, flat response and hmm, nice spl levels too. I also tested 60Hz tuning but it was too one noteish (peaky response around 60-70Hz), actually it was horrible.
I also simulated 6th bandpass giving very good spl beetween 45-80Hz but 15 litres of volume for single 4" driver is just too much for my taste. Tapped horn would be even larger.. maybe I will give it a try anyway.
Looks like passive radiator is the way to go, if small size + big sound is the main criteria.
Most bluetooth speakers (jbl xtreme etc) are using this method.
3" drivers are even more interesting.. 🙂
How about smallest sub/biggest SPL contest?
You get 5 extra points for every inch the driver is smaller than another. 10 extra point for response flatness of 10Hz (flat beetween 50-70Hz = 20 points, +/-2dB tolerance). 10extra points / 0.5 litres of enclosure volume (smaller the better).
So I made a dual bass reflex: 12 litres, tuned to 50Hz. This gave pretty nice results, flat response and hmm, nice spl levels too. I also tested 60Hz tuning but it was too one noteish (peaky response around 60-70Hz), actually it was horrible.
I also simulated 6th bandpass giving very good spl beetween 45-80Hz but 15 litres of volume for single 4" driver is just too much for my taste. Tapped horn would be even larger.. maybe I will give it a try anyway.
Looks like passive radiator is the way to go, if small size + big sound is the main criteria.
Most bluetooth speakers (jbl xtreme etc) are using this method.
3" drivers are even more interesting.. 🙂
How about smallest sub/biggest SPL contest?
You get 5 extra points for every inch the driver is smaller than another. 10 extra point for response flatness of 10Hz (flat beetween 50-70Hz = 20 points, +/-2dB tolerance). 10extra points / 0.5 litres of enclosure volume (smaller the better).
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12 liters in kinda small, but the TB 6,5" subwoofer + passive radiators will work in 10 liter enclosure with good results. I pushed the low end with miniDSP and sounds quite good.
The 5" from TB might be the smallest I could imagine as a subwoofer. When going smaller you need to have some gimmicks to get the low notes. In those bt speakers DSP and psychoacoustics are the secret ingredient.
The 5" from TB might be the smallest I could imagine as a subwoofer. When going smaller you need to have some gimmicks to get the low notes. In those bt speakers DSP and psychoacoustics are the secret ingredient.
am I understanding correctly that both front and rear horns must be at least 14ft to get some 20hz gain?
Actually, to get gain down to 20 Hz you have to design to ~16.2 Hz, ~14 ft only gets you ~ -3 dB/20 Hz. If you look at the TH I simmed, its path-length is tuned a 1/2 octave below 20 Hz to get full gain.
GM
Actually, to get gain down to 20 Hz you have to design to ~16.2 Hz, ~14 ft only gets you ~ -3 dB/20 Hz. If you look at the TH I simmed, its path-length is tuned a 1/2 octave below 20 Hz to get full gain.
GM
@GM thanks for the simulation, i’m trying to interpret the text file - which parameter is horn length? or is the intent to plug the values into hornresp to understand the dimensions?
??? Save it to HR's IMPORT FILE, then in HR/File/Import hornresp record/find the file and double click to open it in a new record to view/save/change/whatever.
GM
GM
.........Volume of displaced air is equal to membrane area times its excursion. It is simply not possible to do for small driver............
Well, everything depends on the size and type of the enclosure ..
Another question is whether it is practical, but I think you can achieve important SPL with small speakers ....
PassDiy
An interesting point of utility for these pico-size subwoofer drivers is as the 2nd or 3rd sub in a Geddes style arrangement. You don't need prodigious output, but unobtrusive packaging.
I just got a couple of these :
http://www.tb-speaker.com/uploads/files/7deb24219e1bbaab3f01580d7350d9af.pdf
Pretty good bang / size
http://www.tb-speaker.com/uploads/files/7deb24219e1bbaab3f01580d7350d9af.pdf
Pretty good bang / size
Hey Mike, long time no 'see'! 🙂
Interesting, wasn't aware of such modular speakers being available to the general public, thanks!
GM
Interesting, wasn't aware of such modular speakers being available to the general public, thanks!
GM
Thank You !
I just ran upon those . Quite a selection .
Sound Module - TB SPEAKER CO., LTD.
They all use passive radiators.
The neat (to me) ones appear to be just
a short tube, driver on one end and passive
on the other.
I just ran upon those . Quite a selection .
Sound Module - TB SPEAKER CO., LTD.
They all use passive radiators.
The neat (to me) ones appear to be just
a short tube, driver on one end and passive
on the other.
what the world needs ...............
Tang Band T1-1828SD Speaker Module 2-5/16" x 2-5/16"
using that as a model
then upsizing to 4" pvc pipe dimensions
for the ' cab '
probably a coupler
use these :
Dayton Audio DMA Series by Dayton Audio
@ each end of pipe
Tang Band T1-1828SD Speaker Module 2-5/16" x 2-5/16"
using that as a model
then upsizing to 4" pvc pipe dimensions
for the ' cab '
probably a coupler
use these :
Dayton Audio DMA Series by Dayton Audio
@ each end of pipe
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