Check if the frecuency could be a problem also, dont think as usualy the cds motors run on dc but worth the check.
Do You have three phases at home. In Europe it is standard.
Don't use the neutral and connect between two phases. That should work, but measure first.
Don't use the neutral and connect between two phases. That should work, but measure first.
Changing the voltage is just the beginning. I might upgrade the analogue voltage regulators for a possible improvement.
Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator
I can identify the onboard crystal. Perhaps a precision clock?
The fun never ends.
Slightly off topic. I'm working on parts for the following already. Very excited.
What To Do With Those 2SJ28's Post #349
Regards,
Dan
If it was mine I'd get an inexpensive 240 to 120V step down transformer and
run it 'backwards' OR a smallish dual primary toroid and run the primaries in
series as an autotransformer. Drive 120V into the 'center tap' and take 240
from the 2 primaries in series. I'd use double the VA rating transformer since the
primaries are not both being sourced.
You can get one of these for less than $20
http://www.antekinc.com/as-1222-100va-22v-transformer/
Merry Christmas
G²
In US/Canada, residential power is 240V Center-Tapped.
All small loads are wired 0 and 120V.
Cookers, dryers are wired across the outside ends for 240V.
In principle he could adapt a dryer plug to the audio box. However the current available to a dryer is larger than a line cord is safe to carry in a fault.
A 15A 240V outlet can be fully legal but I have never seen one in a house; and only once in commercial work. (I may be hanging in the wrong places.)
Also many pre-1995 US dryer/cooker outlets have no Ground (PE), instead relying on the Neutral (center-tap) to bond the case of the dryer and keep case-concrete voltage low. (This failed enough that a 4-wire system is now standard.)
Absolutely: get a 230V:115V transformer and get on with life. But that has been rejected.
I purchased the Hammond 176A for two reasons. A.) It’s a plug n play solution that will have me up and running while I explore other options. B.) If I do find another solution the Hammond should be easily re-sold to recover some costs.
176A Hammond Manufacturing | Transformers | DigiKey
Regards,
Dan
European homes do NOT have 3PH power. It's 240V single phase.
Three-phase electric power - Wikipedia
In North America, we use Split Phase.
Split-phase electric power - Wikipedia
Some Euro homes are wired 3-Phase, 230V per leg and 400V leg-leg. I am assured of this by a German with a fine home.
Much of Europe home power "could"(*) use US 240V CT transformers, ignore the CT, ground one end of the 240V winding. So no 120V loads. The main practical difference is much skinnier filaments on 230V incandescent lamps compared to 120V filaments. Fine engineering made this practical.
(*) Actually US pole transformers make assumptions about what the three leads will be used for. I'm not going up to check closely but I think my CT is also the transformer shell. The two 120V terminals would certainly take 240V-to-ground on one of them short-term, but were not engineered to stand that for 40 years.
Much of Europe home power "could"(*) use US 240V CT transformers, ignore the CT, ground one end of the 240V winding. So no 120V loads. The main practical difference is much skinnier filaments on 230V incandescent lamps compared to 120V filaments. Fine engineering made this practical.
(*) Actually US pole transformers make assumptions about what the three leads will be used for. I'm not going up to check closely but I think my CT is also the transformer shell. The two 120V terminals would certainly take 240V-to-ground on one of them short-term, but were not engineered to stand that for 40 years.
PRR, once again at the risk of venturing outside my very limited field of knowledge:
In the now-common 400V TN (Terra Neutral) homes, it's 230V(1)+230V(2)+230V(3) + Neutral + Ground/Earth. Neutral and Ground is separated at or before the house fuse box.
You'd measure around 230V between both Phase/Neutral and Phase/Ground, on Ground/Neutral there can be some very low voltage noise, Phase1/Phase2, Phase2/Phase3 and Phase1/Phase3 for instance, is often around 414-416V. These systems have safety features that cut power immediately if there is any fault, unless it's under 15-30mA somewhere.
In the old style 230V IT (Insulated Terra) system that we still have some places in Norway, you can measure Phase1/Ground 128V, Phase2/Ground and Phase3/Ground 128V. Phase1/Phase2, Phase2/Phase3 and Phase1/Phase3 measures 230V. This system can tolerate 1 grounding fault, so in case of 1 Phase/Ground failure, the connected equipment will keep working, power will not be cut if a fault occurs. The IT system is still used in Hospitals because steady supply is deemed more important than theoretical in-house grid safety (a little bit hard to translate this, but you probably get the point).
I have 230V IT in my home, so it's Phase1+Phase2+Phase3+Ground into my fuse box, and the phases are mixed distribution throughout the house. Once, I measured 230V Phase/Ground. There was a grounding error at one of the street lamps outside that had a short to one phase, everything kept working fine until someone came and fixed the light and the phase voltage was corrected, no loss of power.
I'm no electrician, so hope it's mostly correct. I do however like to make fun of electricians... to quote myself: "They manage to screw up using 3 wires, while I have to keep track of infinite."
There, I put my head on the block, let's see who brings an axe.
To be honest, I think it's a problem in most lines of work, that some people are just not awake while on the job. The routine systems with increased paperwork/forms to catch sloppy work do not help, because people have so many forms to fill out, it takes a lot of time to detail check every single little thing all over again.
In the now-common 400V TN (Terra Neutral) homes, it's 230V(1)+230V(2)+230V(3) + Neutral + Ground/Earth. Neutral and Ground is separated at or before the house fuse box.
You'd measure around 230V between both Phase/Neutral and Phase/Ground, on Ground/Neutral there can be some very low voltage noise, Phase1/Phase2, Phase2/Phase3 and Phase1/Phase3 for instance, is often around 414-416V. These systems have safety features that cut power immediately if there is any fault, unless it's under 15-30mA somewhere.
In the old style 230V IT (Insulated Terra) system that we still have some places in Norway, you can measure Phase1/Ground 128V, Phase2/Ground and Phase3/Ground 128V. Phase1/Phase2, Phase2/Phase3 and Phase1/Phase3 measures 230V. This system can tolerate 1 grounding fault, so in case of 1 Phase/Ground failure, the connected equipment will keep working, power will not be cut if a fault occurs. The IT system is still used in Hospitals because steady supply is deemed more important than theoretical in-house grid safety (a little bit hard to translate this, but you probably get the point).
I have 230V IT in my home, so it's Phase1+Phase2+Phase3+Ground into my fuse box, and the phases are mixed distribution throughout the house. Once, I measured 230V Phase/Ground. There was a grounding error at one of the street lamps outside that had a short to one phase, everything kept working fine until someone came and fixed the light and the phase voltage was corrected, no loss of power.
I'm no electrician, so hope it's mostly correct. I do however like to make fun of electricians... to quote myself: "They manage to screw up using 3 wires, while I have to keep track of infinite."
There, I put my head on the block, let's see who brings an axe.
To be honest, I think it's a problem in most lines of work, that some people are just not awake while on the job. The routine systems with increased paperwork/forms to catch sloppy work do not help, because people have so many forms to fill out, it takes a lot of time to detail check every single little thing all over again.
Electricity is the only trade you can do COMPLETELY wrong and unsafely but everything still works. Try that with plumbing 🙂
If you think that's true I'll let you fly a kite in the 230KV sub station where I work. We'll let you test Ohm's Law. 😉
Well, OK, you are the exception. Large power favors 3-ph for economy of feeder wire and transformers. However when interfaced to Edison's 3-wire 100V-0V-100V system (now 120-0-120), you get 208 where I get 240V.
For heaters this usually works out OK. The oven has thermostat, the burners are adjusted by eye/smell. At 208 the juice flows a little longer than if fed 240, but the cake tastes the same. Most nominal 240V cookers have enough reserve to cook "OK" at 208. The water heater will run about 30% longer for the same degrees/gallons, and most folks never notice. Many AC motors are not real voltage-critical and do alright at 208, especially in soft-start short-term work like elevators duty. I have seen trouble with cooling compressors (compounded by idiot purchasing bureaucracy and ignorant electricians).
Grounding is a very controversial topic, and often specialized to local conditions. I can't care where you put your dirt-rod.
My stove is actually designed for 208V. The 240V model will work, but the oven takes 15 minutes to heat up instead of 5. The neighbourhood distribution is 27.6kV and I'm surprised they didn't run 347/600 for the lighting, heat, and elevators really. The massive parking garage (spans 2 levels and four buildings) is lit by 120V and the buildings are heated electrically! Electric is included in my rent though which is good when you run tubes 🙂
My first test with a completely plug and play solution turned out some very positive results.
I purchased Hammond's Autotransformer
176A Hammond Manufacturing | Transformers | DigiKey
And because it came with a 6-15R connector on the secondary I purchased the following 'adapter' cord for a completely wiring free solution.
3611048F2701(R) GlobTek, Inc. | Cable Assemblies | DigiKey
So far I'm very pleased with no 'audible' concerns or issues!
Regards,
Dan
I purchased Hammond's Autotransformer
176A Hammond Manufacturing | Transformers | DigiKey
And because it came with a 6-15R connector on the secondary I purchased the following 'adapter' cord for a completely wiring free solution.
3611048F2701(R) GlobTek, Inc. | Cable Assemblies | DigiKey
So far I'm very pleased with no 'audible' concerns or issues!
Regards,
Dan
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